I'm at 2500 miles and need to change the oil again. I used Joe Gibbs Racing break-in oil initially and at 1040 miles did a change using this again since we had a few cases kicking around. I've got 2 gallons of the Rottilla-T diesel oil but was thinking of going with the Valvoline VR1 oil instead in our 351w roller. I see on their website they have

• 10W-30 VR1
• 10W-30 VR1 Synthetic

Stopped @ Advanced Auto and Autozone yesterday and all they had was VR1 20W-50 and SAE50 oils.

I know a few people here use VR1 and wanted to ask what weight you all used and where you buy it from? Also opinions on either the conventional or the synthetic versions?

 

I'd look on their site and see which weights have the highest ZDDP content. I run Torco myself.

 

I run 10-30 vr1

-Gun

 

I think you guys are all sucked into the hype of these oils...I haven't seen that this "zddp" crap does anything (in my motors). I run Penzoil 5w30 in my motors. I build them to close tolerances too though. (.0005-.001) Look at what they are calling for in newer motors nowadays...for the same reason. You can't get thick oil into tight spots.

 

+1, i think there is some over hyping of oil. i've run all rebuilds and new builds using LE 5w30 and have had no problems.

 

i don't see a hype part here. old motor oils had zinc phosphor combination. it destroyed catalytic converters. so it had to go. although is there really a need on a modern roller block?

 

i would say with a modern engine you wouldnt really need it but im not a big engine guy.

i run the 10w30 VR1 dino oil in my stang but its running on all original internals, gaskets etc and only has 30k miles.

Now how much of a difference there would be between standard low zinc and then the high zinc stuff is beyond me.

 

if you are running a roller cam, you dont need the same protection that the old flat tappet camshaft engines need. all modern engines are rollers and dont need the zinc in the oil any longer.

i fell victim to low zinc oil. the motor had been rebuilt when i bought the car but they had used conventional modern oil. i had to re-rebuild my motor and replace my camshaft due to the lobes being rounded off.

you should be fine with what ever brand you chose as long as it is changed on a regular basis.

 

First of all there's no evidence of ZDDP ever damaging even 1 catalytic converter ever on the planet(the EPA mandated lower levels because of the CONCERN that it COULD damage cats). Secondly, it has nothing to do with oil weight. I run 10-30 in mine. The additives are strictly for high pressure/friction areas such as thrust bearings, and valvetrain components and pistons/pins/rings(areas that are primarily splash oiled). It also makes a huge difference when you start talking about boundary lubrication, which is a major issue when you first start an engine and any time there's even a minor hiccup or pressure drop in the system. Anything that's splash oiled is operating entirely on boundary lubrication, which is why flat tappet cams suffer the worst wear, extremely high pressures at the contact point and a limited about of splash oiling.

 

thanks for clarifying that. I still feel that cats live longer than they did 20 years ago (half year back then?) but who knows maybe they just gotten better or something