302, 331 or 347
am i wastin my time when i stroke my 302 to a 331 or a 347
or should i just build a monster 302
funds are limited and strokin just looks like more bangg for my buck
would some one please help me
thanks for your help
or should i just build a monster 302
funds are limited and strokin just looks like more bangg for my buck
would some one please help me
thanks for your help
Depends on how good the stuff in your 302 is. If the recipricating assembly is in good shape and you don't plan much over 6500 rpm, stick with the 302. If you want a higher rpm screamer, you'll need to replace the crank/rods anyway, so you might as well go with a stroker. 331 or 347 depends on your taste. The 331 doesn't require clearancing in the block, where the 347 does.
A 351w engine would require new accessory brackets if you decide to go that route. Also, it's slighly larger size may cause issues in some of the smaller engine bays.
A 351w engine would require new accessory brackets if you decide to go that route. Also, it's slighly larger size may cause issues in some of the smaller engine bays.
Id say the 331. A well built 331 would require a 302 to be pretty radical to run the same numbers. The 331 would have much more streetability and reliability. The 347's are nice, but have some longevity issues due to excessive cylinder bore wear. They are also a little more tricky to build since they have a pretty high piston speed and many people dont take that into account when selecting parts for them.
As many have said a 351 Windsor would also be nice, but you will have to buy many things to make it work such as specific headers, oil pan , motor mounts, intakes, etc.
I guess it depends on what your goal would be for the car and your intended use.
As many have said a 351 Windsor would also be nice, but you will have to buy many things to make it work such as specific headers, oil pan , motor mounts, intakes, etc.
I guess it depends on what your goal would be for the car and your intended use.
ORIGINAL: BCP
Id say the 331. A well built 331 would require a 302 to be pretty radical to run the same numbers. The 331 would have much more streetability and reliability. The 347's are nice, but have some longevity issues due to excessive cylinder bore wear. They are also a little more tricky to build since they have a pretty high piston speed and many people dont take that into account when selecting parts for them.
As many have said a 351 Windsor would also be nice, but you will have to buy many things to make it work such as specific headers, oil pan , motor mounts, intakes, etc.
I guess it depends on what your goal would be for the car and your intended use.
Id say the 331. A well built 331 would require a 302 to be pretty radical to run the same numbers. The 331 would have much more streetability and reliability. The 347's are nice, but have some longevity issues due to excessive cylinder bore wear. They are also a little more tricky to build since they have a pretty high piston speed and many people dont take that into account when selecting parts for them.
As many have said a 351 Windsor would also be nice, but you will have to buy many things to make it work such as specific headers, oil pan , motor mounts, intakes, etc.
I guess it depends on what your goal would be for the car and your intended use.
BCP is right the oil pan does need to be changed with the 351, along with the pick up tube,with the added power from a 351 you will more then likely need new trans, and many more parts, over all the 331 will be cheaper but niether one is actually "cheap" and the 331 does need clearancing, the rods will hit the cylinder wall,
Forgot about that oil pan thing.
I've seen articles both ways about clearancing for the 331. My crank in my block did not require clearancing. I'm sure there were small adjustments made to the blocks over time, so it's always best to test fit.
I've seen articles both ways about clearancing for the 331. My crank in my block did not require clearancing. I'm sure there were small adjustments made to the blocks over time, so it's always best to test fit.
When I said motor mounts I was more refering to the possibility of needing the drop munts to lower the 351 in the k member to reduce and hood clearance issues. I should have clarified.


