dan_bhfd

Ok, I am new here but I can't find any info on the web other than other people having the same problem with no solution posted. I am in dire need of help as this is my only car and I need to get to work. Anyway, the problem I am having is the car runs fine from a cold start and as the car warms the choke opens as it is supposed to but as soon as it is fully open it begins to sputter. I have held the choke closed manually for longer thinking maybe the choke is out of adjustment. That was one problem down but it still isn't fixed. When you give it throttle to kick it down from High Idle it sputters then dies. It is driving me crazy. I did have a small leak in the exhaust manifold due to a faulty gasket which I have also replaced. I will be replacing the PCV Valve and spark plugs/wires tonight. I have checked all the vacumme hoses for leaks and there is none. I have adjusted the Idle, the Air/Fuel Mixture, checked the float in the carb, changed the fuel filter, and cleaned the net inside the carb. I have added a Pertronix Electronic Ignition with a Petronix 45,000 volt coil, and an electronic choke. So that rules out the timing, points, and dwell. Is there something I am overlooking? Does anyone have any suggestions? The car is a 1966 Mustang Conv. with an I6 200ci engine with an automatic transmission. HELP!!!!

Thanks,
Dan

jdaniel

Im not big on carb'd engines... but isnt that suppose to work the other way around? The choke is suppose to open when its cold and close's as it warms up? Thats how the Holly on my '74 Nova SS worked anyways.

89stanglx

The choke is correct, when the engine is closed it cuts off the air supply, when it warms up it opens.

i would get a carb rebuild kit should be like 10 bucks. I would double check your carb with the instructions in the kit for idle speed, high idle, and air/fuel set screws. I also prefer a manual choke on older vehicles that you can adjust while starting and through the warmup. get a couple cans of carb cleaner and a old tooth brush

98Stang351w

yeah that is one reason I dont like carbs that and the poping noise it makes at high rpms....but yeah try just rebuilding the carb or replacing it get a daemon they are very respectable.

WorldMustang

Ok, First what is you Idle RPM's? Mustangs have a auto chock as you know that forces the car into a high rpm's range of 1000 or there about but should drop to 500 as soon as you touch the gas pedal and release or it warms up. you may have your idle too low and stalling out your engine. you air to fuel mixture may be too lean, your PVC valve my be bad. Take the line from you PVC valve and disconnect it. does the car run better or worse some cars will not run with out the fume from the pvc and if the pvc is bad well your idle rpms can drop like a rock. There are case that the car will not run with out disconnecting the PVC valve that means your engine is starving for air. my rule of thumb check your rpms, listen to the engine for balanced discharge on all valves, check tail pipes for white or blue smoke, disconnect pvc valve hose and check the rpms, cover the hose end and see what change that makes. sometimes the biggest problems have the easies solutions