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interpreting air/fuel gauge

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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 02:20 AM
  #1  
luckythirteen13's Avatar
luckythirteen13
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Default interpreting air/fuel gauge

alright...i installed an air/fuel gauge about 3 months ago and today finaly got around to wiring it up. i felt like a ricer with a gauge that did nothing

anyways, as it idles for a minute or so it moves from rich to stoich. then it begins to jump all over the place and when i drive its all over the place (yes i know its supposed to do that) and damn its annoying. but, yes there is a but, when i womp on it, the need pegs the rich side of the gauge and stays there till i let off. why?? i recently did heads, 24#'s, pushrods, roller rockers and heat spacer. i did calibrate my maf for the 24# injectors. i have the c&l maf and bought there calibration tube for 24#.
i think my regulator may be bad.....heres why and you can tell me if it sounds stupid....... before the heads and injectors and all that i ran shorties, no cats and flowmasters. bobby is runnin the same thing on his 5.0 and says he smell no fumes. my car smelled terrible!! like fuel was puring out...and not a leak but out the exhaust. maybe this would explain my 15mpg? so you think i should get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? yes right?
heres another question. should i set it to stock fuel pressure to see if that helps or try to tune from the start?
Old Nov 10, 2004 | 02:31 AM
  #2  
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Default RE: interpreting air/fuel gauge

just set it at stock and go from there
Old Nov 10, 2004 | 10:56 AM
  #3  
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Default RE: interpreting air/fuel gauge

its supposed to peg rich when at WOT because your a/f will go from around 14 - 15:1 up to 13 - 13.5:1 or so (or should)
Old Nov 10, 2004 | 12:48 PM
  #4  
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Default RE: interpreting air/fuel gauge

without a cam change, you might want to run lower than stock pressure and see if the gas smell goes away. don't think you needed the 24# squirters just yet, but now that you've got them, you have to live with them.
Old Nov 10, 2004 | 02:47 PM
  #5  
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Default RE: interpreting air/fuel gauge

its supposed to peg rich when at WOT because your a/f will go from around 14 - 15:1 up to 13 - 13.5:1 or so (or should)
Once again, MD is exactly right. That gage is working fine. Under load, if you see the light budge off the richest position, it's starting to get to lean.
Old Nov 10, 2004 | 05:31 PM
  #6  
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luckythirteen13
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Default RE: interpreting air/fuel gauge

i need to get it dyno tuned...
Old Nov 10, 2004 | 05:48 PM
  #7  
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Default RE: interpreting air/fuel gauge

Mine does the same thing. MD is right. Do you have this one? I actually like how it dances around at night. *purdy colors oooooohhh*

[IMG]local://upfiles/2647/4F65A20DCF33416A87780874730285F5.jpg[/IMG]
Old Nov 10, 2004 | 06:19 PM
  #8  
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luckythirteen13
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Default RE: interpreting air/fuel gauge

alright....i called around locally and found a place that speciallizes in efi cars. they said its $150 for 4 hours of tuning and if they need to burn a chip, the chip is $350....does this sound like a good price? its the best i could find.

another place wanted $850 and it would take them 3 days and you get a chip no matter what....sounded odd
Old Nov 10, 2004 | 07:55 PM
  #9  
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Default RE: interpreting air/fuel gauge

so when you think your going?
Old Nov 10, 2004 | 09:00 PM
  #10  
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luckythirteen13
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Default RE: interpreting air/fuel gauge

when my money tree blossoms......[8D]



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