I dont know crap...
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 38
From:
I dont know crap...
I dont know crap about suspension work. what are some good ways to improve all around handling but at the same time making the car lighter? or does putting in better suspension crap add weight?
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 260
From:
RE: I dont know crap...
ORIGINAL: mdvaldosta
the only thing that would reduce weight would be a tubular k-member... everything else would weiht about the same, aftermarket maybe little ligher or little heavier
the only thing that would reduce weight would be a tubular k-member... everything else would weiht about the same, aftermarket maybe little ligher or little heavier
i feel special like i had weight reductions, then i got a light bar also. 
i have thought of the new K-member to help reduce weight off the front end but im going to wait awhile till i get it. i feel a s/c and gears and a ton other stuff has higher priority over a K-member.
what i would do to your car is get upper and lower rear control arms, new springs for some looks and handling, and new shocks/struts and get some strut tower braces and sub frame connectors. that should all help out the handling alot and the control arms will help out handling while increasing your traction on launch.
hey MD, i forgot to ask.... but my convertible already has sub-frame connectors under it. are they any good? they are from the factory and seem pretty strudy but im not sure? would it be worth replacing the stock ones with some better ones.
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 905
From: Bayside, New York
RE: I dont know crap...
hey MD, i forgot to ask.... but my convertible already has sub-frame connectors under it. are they any good? they are from the factory and seem pretty strudy but im not sure? would it be worth replacing the stock ones with some better ones.
[/quote]
Factory subframe connectors on an 02 Vert? Didn't know that was so???
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 616
From: Anaheim, CA
RE: I dont know crap...
Factory Subframe connectors are a joke..... small, and bolted on. MM full-length subframe connectors welded is the way to go.
When my engine was recently out of the car for a warranty repair, I siezed the opportunity and added MM tubular K-member. Even then, by the time I added A-arms, coil-overs, etc, I was in over 2k$ in parts.
I'm glad I did it though:
[IMG]local://upfiles/12498/20BFA498CFB243989714C8FB804E5399.jpg[/IMG]
When my engine was recently out of the car for a warranty repair, I siezed the opportunity and added MM tubular K-member. Even then, by the time I added A-arms, coil-overs, etc, I was in over 2k$ in parts.
I'm glad I did it though:
[IMG]local://upfiles/12498/20BFA498CFB243989714C8FB804E5399.jpg[/IMG]
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 288
From:
RE: I dont know crap...
The first should be full-length subframe connectors (weld-in only). The stock ones for verts will not work. Strut brace for the front will
need to be installed. Also a good set of springs like H&R the best and a quality set of struts and shocks like Koni or Bilstein. Rear lower
control arms to eliminate wheel hop in the rear on launch. And for the lateral location of the axle a panhard bar will work very well
allowing you to push the car harder through the turns. And a torque arm if you want to convert the stock 4-link to a 3-link eliminating
the rear upper control arms, and reducing rear suspension bind. Bind and cause problems down the road like erratic handling,
torque box damage etc. Oh yes the rubber bushings will need to be dicarded for polyurthane or Delrin bushings reducing deflection.
Don't replace the upper control with aftermarket ones with urethane as to this will leed to to damage of the torque boxes later on.
Matt
need to be installed. Also a good set of springs like H&R the best and a quality set of struts and shocks like Koni or Bilstein. Rear lower
control arms to eliminate wheel hop in the rear on launch. And for the lateral location of the axle a panhard bar will work very well
allowing you to push the car harder through the turns. And a torque arm if you want to convert the stock 4-link to a 3-link eliminating
the rear upper control arms, and reducing rear suspension bind. Bind and cause problems down the road like erratic handling,
torque box damage etc. Oh yes the rubber bushings will need to be dicarded for polyurthane or Delrin bushings reducing deflection.
Don't replace the upper control with aftermarket ones with urethane as to this will leed to to damage of the torque boxes later on.
Matt
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 288
From:
RE: I dont know crap...
If you plan on doing suspension stick with one company like Maximum Motorsports or Griggs. Don't mix and match suspension, as to
this will leed to some parts not being able to work woth each other.
Matt
this will leed to some parts not being able to work woth each other.
Matt
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 260
From:
RE: I dont know crap...
ORIGINAL: fastmustangs1
The first should be full-length subframe connectors (weld-in only). The stock ones for verts will not work. Strut brace for the front will
need to be installed. Also a good set of springs like H&R the best and a quality set of struts and shocks like Koni or Bilstein. Rear lower
control arms to eliminate wheel hop in the rear on launch. And for the lateral location of the axle a panhard bar will work very well
allowing you to push the car harder through the turns. And a torque arm if you want to convert the stock 4-link to a 3-link eliminating
the rear upper control arms, and reducing rear suspension bind. Bind and cause problems down the road like erratic handling,
torque box damage etc. Oh yes the rubber bushings will need to be dicarded for polyurthane or Delrin bushings reducing deflection.
Don't replace the upper control with aftermarket ones with urethane as to this will leed to to damage of the torque boxes later on.
Matt
The first should be full-length subframe connectors (weld-in only). The stock ones for verts will not work. Strut brace for the front will
need to be installed. Also a good set of springs like H&R the best and a quality set of struts and shocks like Koni or Bilstein. Rear lower
control arms to eliminate wheel hop in the rear on launch. And for the lateral location of the axle a panhard bar will work very well
allowing you to push the car harder through the turns. And a torque arm if you want to convert the stock 4-link to a 3-link eliminating
the rear upper control arms, and reducing rear suspension bind. Bind and cause problems down the road like erratic handling,
torque box damage etc. Oh yes the rubber bushings will need to be dicarded for polyurthane or Delrin bushings reducing deflection.
Don't replace the upper control with aftermarket ones with urethane as to this will leed to to damage of the torque boxes later on.
Matt