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Studder above 3,000 when warm

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Old Sep 9, 2005 | 02:24 AM
  #1  
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Default Studder above 3,000 when warm

i have an '88 gt. After the car is warm, it studders and cuts out above 3,000 rpm. When its cold, it runs great for about 15 minutes before the studder starts. The studder is pretty bad. I've done the small stuff (changed plugs, wires, rotor, cap, messed with timing, fuel filter). I am thinking maybe i have a bad pickup coil or O2 sensors. Anyone have any insight?
Old Sep 9, 2005 | 11:11 AM
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Default RE: Studder above 3,000 when warm

If you have a way to check your running fuel pressure try that.Is this an intermttent problem or does it always happen?
Old Sep 9, 2005 | 03:45 PM
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Default RE: Studder above 3,000 when warm

its all the time
Old Sep 9, 2005 | 11:47 PM
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Default RE: Studder above 3,000 when warm

Sound like vehicle is fine when it runs in warm up, then it's bad when it gets up to operating temperature. I would replace coolant temerature sensor.


Also, try running egnition in spark out mode, pull spark out plug.
Old Sep 10, 2005 | 05:05 AM
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Default RE: Studder above 3,000 when warm


ORIGINAL: 4600cc

Sound like vehicle is fine when it runs in warm up, then it's bad when it gets up to operating temperature. I would replace coolant temerature sensor.


Also, try running egnition in spark out mode, pull spark out plug.

What in the hell is that going to do? this is a fox body stang its not that technical the cars run no matter what usually???And what in the hell is egnition in spark out mode???And were do you come up with this stuff???Holy crap .....how can a car run good with a plug out??


Lukedorris:Please man pretend you didnt even see what he wrote down cause its crazy!Is the car blowing any smoke when its doing it?
Old Sep 10, 2005 | 10:54 AM
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Default RE: Studder above 3,000 when warm

ORIGINAL: 99saleen351r
What in the hell is that going to do?
Since it's running fine while ECM is in warm up, and starts acting up when in normal operational mode, this suggest that coolant temerature sensor is bad. It can skew the A/F ratio when the car is going into normal operational mode.


ORIGINAL: 99saleen351r
this is a fox body stang its not that technical the cars run no matter what usually???
So you guessing that it runs no matter what, usually?


ORIGINAL: 99saleen351r
And what in the hell is egnition in spark out mode???
SPOUT or Spark Out, forces EDIS-8 into open loop, it stops receiving timing from ECM and uses a constant timing of 5 BTDC.


ORIGINAL: 99saleen351r
And were do you come up with this stuff??? Holy crap .....how can a car run good with a plug out??

You can neither read, nor understand. Nor you know what you are talking about. Reading my post and saying that I told you to take your spark plugs out, is idiotic, scroll up and read it again, I never said what you think I said. You did not offer any troubleshooting advice, so your post is useless and confusing to the author. Give this site a favor, when you don't know something ask politely. Members that aren't ******* ***lls will bring this site a greater prestige and recognition.





*******
Old Sep 10, 2005 | 01:42 PM
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Default RE: Studder above 3,000 when warm


ORIGINAL: 4600cc

ORIGINAL: 99saleen351r
What in the hell is that going to do?
Since it's running fine while ECM is in warm up, and starts acting up when in normal operational mode, this suggest that coolant temerature sensor is bad. It can skew the A/F ratio when the car is going into normal operational mode.


ORIGINAL: 99saleen351r
this is a fox body stang its not that technical the cars run no matter what usually???
So you guessing that it runs no matter what, usually?


ORIGINAL: 99saleen351r
And what in the hell is egnition in spark out mode???
SPOUT or Spark Out, forces EDIS-8 into open loop, it stops receiving timing from ECM and uses a constant timing of 5 BTDC.


ORIGINAL: 99saleen351r
And were do you come up with this stuff??? Holy crap .....how can a car run good with a plug out??

You can neither read, nor understand. Nor you know what you are talking about. Reading my post and saying that I told you to take your spark plugs out, is idiotic, scroll up and read it again, I never said what you think I said. You did not offer any troubleshooting advice, so your post is useless and confusing to the author. Give this site a favor, when you don't know something ask politely. Members that aren't ******* ***lls will bring this site a greater prestige and recognition.





*******

You should stop making up stuff to post and the site might be a little better..How old may you be??your the one with the outragous claims
Old Sep 10, 2005 | 01:46 PM
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Default RE: Studder above 3,000 when warm

ORIGINAL: 99saleen351r
your the one with the outragous claims


What claims are outrageous?
Old Sep 12, 2005 | 02:26 AM
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Default RE: Studder above 3,000 when warm

To answer a previous question, yes, the car does blow smoke while it cuts out. The car does hold good oil pressure (ranging from 40-55 while cruising). I have wondered if compression is the issue, but the car runs so good when its cold, and i dont believe that bad rings or something else internally would cause the car to studder the way it does. The problem also kind of started overnight, which make me think it is an electronic issue. I have thought of everything i can before getting into spending possibly wasted money. I dont want to spend $500 trying to diagnose something that might be caused by a $30 sensor. I would hate to go spend $160 or so on a distributor and not need it. Would dirty fuel injectors or possibly even a bad PCV valve (which could I should probably change, but just been lazy) cause this? I am open to any ideas. This temperature sensor might have merit. 4600cc, where is the sensor? I get the feeling that some little, almost insignificant sensor is causing the problem. Saleen99, do you have any ideas at all? I dont care who throws what idea out, Im just looking for help.
Old Sep 12, 2005 | 09:00 AM
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Default RE: Studder above 3,000 when warm

PCV and injectors will not cause an issue like yours. Sensor is on the intake manifold, either go to AutoZone and use their engine repair guides for pictures or get a Haynes manual. Some vehicles have two sensors, one for the guage and one for the computer, if yours does you can swap them and see if that helps.

There is also a air temperature sensor you should take a look at. And yours I believe has a manifold absolute pressure sensor, or MAP, that could be the evil that's causing this. Definately go to AutoZone and read on how to diagnose them.



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