Car help.
Needs some help with my cousins mazda, sorry not a mustang but you guys are usually good.
I am working on a 2000 mazda protege with a 1.8 motor. Car doesnt start, its getting fuel to the motor and the injectors are pulsing fine. When i crank i am getting one initial spark from the plugs then no more spark. Ive check coil, crank, and cam sensors all good, and ohm out good. Ive checked all main relays and fuses which also check out good. There is no theft system on the car, and the key is not chipped. Ive added a extra ground to the motor just incase it was a bad ground situation. the battery is only a few months old. there are no codes stored. The cam is spinning so i no the belt didnt break.
I am working on a 2000 mazda protege with a 1.8 motor. Car doesnt start, its getting fuel to the motor and the injectors are pulsing fine. When i crank i am getting one initial spark from the plugs then no more spark. Ive check coil, crank, and cam sensors all good, and ohm out good. Ive checked all main relays and fuses which also check out good. There is no theft system on the car, and the key is not chipped. Ive added a extra ground to the motor just incase it was a bad ground situation. the battery is only a few months old. there are no codes stored. The cam is spinning so i no the belt didnt break.
How did you test the sensors? How did you test for spark? How did you test the relays? I ask because often times people do it incorrectly. Ohming a sensor is not an accurate test on if the sensor is good, unless you have the factory ohm spec for the part. Different parts manufacturers have different ohm specs for their parts, and some even have different ohm specs between batches of parts. All an ohm check will tell you is if there is a break inside the sensor by the meter showing “OL” or similar out of range reading. The proper way to test a sensor is with a voltage drop test. It will tell you if the sensor is good, and if the wires going to/from the sensor are good.
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