So I've had a my 2013 Mustang GT since Sept. 2012. It is an automatic (please hold your groans/laughter) which I chose for a few reasons. A major one being I live in a large congested city with lots of stop signs and traffic lights - shifting would be a pain to not go much faster that 30mph (if I'm lucky).

. . . back to the car. She was (still is) pretty bare bones - just your basic 5.0 with not dealer upgrades. I picked up all weather floor mats, winter tires, and gave her some tint. There are a few other after market things I'd like to do, but for now I would like to improve power/performance. I'm not looking to drop in a supercharger, but from what I gather a tuner would give me some small boosts and enhance my driving experience. Here's where the n00b kicks in:

I'm not sure what I need. I've been trying to look at forums and search for products online and at first glance it appears I could just order something from AmericanMuscle, plug it in, and be done. The more I look into it, and the more I look at available products things appear to get more complicated quickly. I should mention I'm not a mechanic, and would do more harm than good if I need to install parts. That said, I have family and/or a shop I could hit to help me out.

So I guess the question is what do you recommend? Can I just get a tuner? Do I need to get a new/better fuel pump or cold air intake like a friend recommended? Maybe this is totally out of the question, but I see Boss 302 kits available within my price range. Would something like that even be a consideration for me with an AT?

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

you can get a tuner alone, you dont need a new fuel pump until you get FI
CAI I believe on the 5.0's has been deemed more visual change, claiming the stock airbox flows plenty.
by the BOSS kits, do you mean the intake manifold? It is a common mod and increases horsepower at higher rev's, however you need the tuner with it

 

OP,

You can certainly just purchase a Bama custom tuner and be done. You'll pick up HP/TQ throughout the entire powerband, increased throttle response, and even 1-2mpg on more open roads. There's no need for any fuel upgrades or anything else, if you just have minor bolt-on mods or a stock car.

I think you'll be extremely satisfied with one of our Bama tuners too. They're easy to use and can tune your Mustangs PCM in minutes. It sounds like this is exactly the type of upgrade your looking for.

Let me know if you have any other questions, I'd be happy to answer them!

Shane

 

I believe it was the manifold I saw, and I would expect to need a tuner. I guess the question for that would be 1) would it work well with an auto? 2) how much more power gain am I going to be able to get over just a tuner?

I've heard there are problems with Bama on the #8 cylinder, and was told to look more at either a Steeda or VMP. I have yet to look deeper for problems with the latter two, but haven't found much. Thoughts?

 

Here's another option with free tunes for life, and it works really well.

http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-s...-v8-gt-11.html

 

Mr. #headman, do you want to keep your warranty? how does your dealer feel about mods? Are you going to race, track or drag?

The #8 piston problem from what I've heard was early 5.0's 11/12's being over aggressively tuned. Maybe even Force Induction (FI) problems. I haven't heard anyone say it actually happened to them - just ghost stories.

Ford has a memo out somewhere on mods and warranty denials for blown engines. Google it. But it's obvious Ford want's you to have them do all mods
for big $$$$. Safe play is a Ford Pro-cal tuner - might get better throttle response but no real HP gains. Get the 2013 Ford Racing Performance Parts catalogue.

I said the hell with it and put the Boss intake on. No 84.5 or 90mm throttle bodies are required unless you Blow it. My tune is custom from The Mustang Shop and Dyno Power Ranch in Washington State. They use SCT tuners. A custom tune, means someone here knows it's running right as opposed to a shop in PA. sending you a tune they did on a similar car not yours, The tune tech knew I wanted to be safe with a new engine, so it wasn't an overly aggressive tune. My 2013 GT/CS dyno's at 410 at the wheel with a 6 sp. and 3.73 diff. At 15% loss, that means your getting pretty good power. Two axil back Sports from Ford Racing and it will sound and pull great.

The shifter in these sucks - get a Barton with lower bracket. Sorry forgot you've got the manual. Then again I know of one individual who put a Boss intake with Nitrous on an auto and ran in the 10's. Most drag racers are going auto.

Suspension - I'd gut it all out. Lower with-whatever but make it matching like Eirboch Springs struts sway-bars, BMR Pan-hard bar LCA, UCA relocation bracket and driveshaft tunnel brace and safety loop. Or you could spend$ and get all Whiteline, whatever same make items work together better.

Driveshaft? Whatever you do make sure it's a good one. I put one in and now I have a pesky noise/whine. I may have to take it out but I hope I can fix it or just know if it's the shaft or something else.

If I blow mine up, I'll let you know.

Later

 

Just purchased a 2013 5.0, stick. What is the average stock horsepower/ torque on this stock engine. Ford literature says 420 horses. I think they lie...just a bit.

 

Exhaust, Headers, Mid Pipe, CAI & Tune will go along way to giving more power and just performance in general.

 

I have run a BAMA tune for a few weeks, flashed my ECM at least 9 times with various upgrades such as exhaust, CAI, and wanting to try the various tunes. Then changed the rear gear from 3.31 (6 speed manual) to 3.73s which required new tunes. I have tried street, perf and race in 3 different conifgurations

W Exhaust
Then re-tuned for the CAI requiring 3 more new tunes
Then adding gears, 3 new tunes because speedo is electronic now

A arce tune for city driving is too wild, but the 89 performance tune is where you should be mild, but when you wanna get on it it gets going.

Folks can knock BAMA if they want, but they do warranty if a tune blows your motor. Like I noted I have flashed my ecm 9 times and have beat the living hell out of my car testing each new tune and guess what?

She still starts and runs fine with every turn of the key.

If you do exhaust (cat back) you can leave it untuned, but Boss Intake, a CAI those require re-tuning of the car.

So while 1 poster doesn't care for the "SHOP in PA" I have used Am to mod 4 mustangs in 2 years and they stand behind their stuff.

BTW if you change your rear axle ratio, go to 3.55 for an Automatic, but this will require a flash to make sure your speedo reads correctly. the stock RAR (rear Axle ratio) for an auto is 3.15

 

Iron Puppy - 2013 with premium push 420 at the crank rear wheel to the ground is around 370. With a Boss intake an SCT tuner and some exhaust work you will Dyno out at 410 at the wheel. Just watch your RPM's less you throw a rod.