When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
First of all, this is the bolt:
This is where they go:
Those are all loosened up from the last time, but tight they're recessed into the knuckle, so you can't cut them out.
So, I drilled a hole at the center, it went off center, but was able to get it deep enough to pound in another triple square, one size down:
I heated up the bolt, and bearing housing before pounding the tool in. Even if the bolt head would have torn off, that would have
been fine, since the threads would remain in the bearing housing, it would still have come off. That was the plan actually, to
twist the head off so it would still come out with the threads of the bolt in the bearing housing. The knuckle does not have
threads in it, so popping the head off would have worked.
While still hot, I used the breaker bar to loosen it, and thank god, it came out!
I ran the bad factory bearings to ~120,000 miles, the driver side started growling at 52,000.
I told the dealer about it, and I said the wheel bearings are bad. They said it was because
the tires have flat spots worn into the tires. So, I said, if that is the case, then it's a suspension
issue, and I have a warranty and it should be fixed they. The dude shook his head, and walked
away from me. Yeah, they wore flat spots because the bearings were bad. Once I put brand
new tires on, it was unbearable, the noise was much louder. So, I had to change them.
The dealer was also going to charge me $71.00 for telling me it wasn't the wheel bearings,
I refused... They let it go, "this time", he said.. I will never go back to that dealer ever again.
If this is considered "off topic" because it's a Volkswagen, then you can move it to the off
topic section, ironically, where someone can tell me it's not, like the last time...
No Complaints here about this thread is placed. General Tech - Bearing noise is universal as are **** hat dealers. the Triple square bolts on VW's and Audi's are nuts. I cringed when I saw them on my wife's Beetle on high torque applications like this and head bolts. Just a stripped bolt waiting to happen.
The hub bolt, if you have the 12 point non-ribbed bolt, it's 148 ft-lbs, then 180 degree turn.
To get these OUT, I had to put a hydraulic jack on the pry-bar end, and jack the pry bar up
while it was on the bolt to get it out the first time. Slightly bent BENT the pry-bar... I put
them back on at 148, but could not get a 180 degree turn out of it, maybe 90 if I was lucky.
That's why I should have gotten the ribbed head bolts...
If you have the hex head ribbed bolt, it's 150 ft-lbs, done. I have actually thought about just
buying the ribbed head bolts so I would not have a torque to yield on those, it's set at 150,
and you're done. They all use the SAME BEARINGS from 2010 to 2018, all the MK6 platform
cars, and even some older ones; audi too, Jetta, Golf, Beetle, a wide range of their cars use
the same bearing assembly, yet some have torque to yield bolts, and others do not.
I had my '13 Jetta TDI, 243,000 miles on it, ALL original... This '15 is falling apart at 150,000.
Got knock at the rear right, and it's IRS. My TDI was SRS, never an issue. All I did on the
TDI was scheduled maintenance, but at 243,000, was the original timing and serpentine belts.
VW bought it back, but I should have kept it... This '15 is a piece of crap, yet it's the exact same
car, but with a gas motor. Every single MK6 Jetta is the same, yet newer ones fall apart...
They look like lots of fun. VW's as I understand tend to be fairly solid cars (I'm sure like everybody else they've had a turd or two over the years) but stuff like this sounds a bit discouraging for the diy mechanic.
The hub bolt, if you have the 12 point non-ribbed bolt, it's 148 ft-lbs, then 180 degree turn.
To get these OUT, I had to put a hydraulic jack on the pry-bar end, and jack the pry bar up
while it was on the bolt to get it out the first time. Slightly bent BENT the pry-bar... I put
them back on at 148, but could not get a 180 degree turn out of it, maybe 90 if I was lucky....
The problem is that those are tightening torque specs. After age, corrosion and dirt, the breaking torque can be double or more., especially for torque to yield. That’s why I hate triple squares, Torx or hex for any spec above 30ish ft/lbs, they aren’t ideal for disassembly in high torque apps. Forget about adding blue loc-tite during reassembly. I also dislike the fact the bit diameter is usually the same size or smaller than the threaded diameter. If they were either deeper and/ or external 12pt so they could have a larger surface area it’d be better.
Did you reuse the 148 ft/lb torque to yield bolts? I haven’t looked at the bolts in our 2013 suspension yet but I’m hoping they aren’t torque to yield.
They look like lots of fun. VW's as I understand tend to be fairly solid cars (I'm sure like everybody else they've had a turd or two over the years) but stuff like this sounds a bit discouraging for the diy mechanic.
The wifes 2013 turbo beetle has been pretty solid so far. The only major issue was near the end of the warranty the sunroof panel started peeling. It’s plastic and has some sort of clear coat on it. They don’t paint it, they replace the entire panel...$1200! Dealer didn’t want to fix it because it was outside of warranty by mileage 37k but was still in by age. I called VW NA and explained everything to them and how it didn’t happen overnight. They had the dealer send pics. Corp office approved its repair as a warranty item.
Having been a member for a while on the vwvortex forum for modern models, one of the biggest complaint is hilarious, The DSG transmission in the vw/Audi is just like the automatics in 05+ mustangs, no dipstick and filled from under the car. They flip out just like our members. What’s even more hilarious are the “special” tools vw has for basic things like refilling the transmission. $175 for this one. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...iABEgLw3_D_BwE
and people dissect the refill procedure like there’s no tomorrow. It’s the same as ours but they obsess over the appropriate level. Oh, the best part? Dealer wants $600 to do a dsg filter change and drain and refill...not even a flush, just a drain and refill. Ford only charges $169 for a flush and maybe up to $325 for a filter replacement with flush. You can buy a kit with all vw oem parts /fluid needed for under $150 and do it in about an hour.
I did plenty DSG filter and fluid changes in 243,000 miles with the TDI. I got the tool from
China for $12.50, for all four of them, sold the other three for $14.00 and kept the DSG
fill. When the TDI went back, I sold the DSG fill tool for $7.00, and sold 5 liters of fluid for
$100.00. I still have oil filters, and one fuel filter...
They obsess over the level and temperature, but I have done it every 80,000 on my DSG to 243,000 and
I had no issues with it. I loved the DSG. Well, as far as Vortex, there is a reason they call it
Whoretex. I was a member, but it seems only certain people are allowed to have an attitude,
I was banned for telling off a moderator, and it was in PM, not in the public. Then the ADMIN
came later, and I was banned for PRIVATE message criticism. Cry babies... Almost the same
here too, certain people will get the last word, because of their fake internet powers....
I drive an average of 450 miles a day, 4-days a week, so I am changing the oil every 6 weeks,
tires every 3 months, rotors every 8 months or so. I need rotors again, just waiting for the
email they're in so I can go get them. Going up over the mountain 4 times a day kills my
brakes. So, since they are bad now, I am not going up over the mountain, going around
which is actually almost 10 miles shorter each way, but takes a little longer. Going up over
it, you're braking all the way down. Putting the car in low gear with these crappy automatics
doesn't help, no trans or engine braking really. Even in 3rd, it will rev all the way up to 5000
going down the other side... Problem with the shorter way is DEER... I hit one going that
way once already, which was 2 months after a previous one elsewhere... I had to put an
Osiris metal belly pan on, and thank god, or I would have lost the oil pan several times
over the span of the TDI and this TSI.
Quote button not working, but anyway.... Yup, I've done a pan-only fluid change and filter on a 5R55x before, used to have an '08 Explorer with one. I can understand the frustration people have especially those who haven't done it but after that first time you kinda realize it's not a big deal. It's like any other project that might qualify itself as "uncharted waters" and the uncertainty that you might screw something up but once you commit to diving in its really not that bad. Like everything else, there's an abundance of solid info available via Google and YouTube to walk you right through it should you not have access to anything official such as manufacturer shop manual.
I made a trans fluid pump from a $5.99 Walmart 1-gallon bug sprayer. Took the spray end off
the wand. Heated the end up and flared it, clamped a hose on it, then put the fill tool on the other
end of the hose. Put the trans fluid in, pump it up, and shoot it in through the trans pan fill. Works
for the Mustang and my '15 TSI. I want to do a filter and fluid change next time around...
'13 TDI, could top fill through the filter housing, just put a little more than took out, and never had
issues.
08-03-2018, 10:48 PM
Removing a rounded out Tripple Square bolt
