Big Debate... Antisieze on Studs?
Ok, so what are your views on anti-sieze on studs... yes or no?
Ive always been told yes, and Ive done it without problems. My dad has been working on cars forever. 2 of his freinds are mechanics(ive grown up around both) Ones a forklift wrench, and the other owns a Shop... all feel its important. My HS autoshop teacher felt the same way. Now I was on another board, and another ase wrench said its a bad idea... what do you all think? Ive always doen it, dads always done it, and both mechanics claim to have always done it... is that guy just smoking crack?
Jim
Ive always been told yes, and Ive done it without problems. My dad has been working on cars forever. 2 of his freinds are mechanics(ive grown up around both) Ones a forklift wrench, and the other owns a Shop... all feel its important. My HS autoshop teacher felt the same way. Now I was on another board, and another ase wrench said its a bad idea... what do you all think? Ive always doen it, dads always done it, and both mechanics claim to have always done it... is that guy just smoking crack?
Jim
I never put anything on wheel studs ever. I don't want anything on there that will make it easier for them to come off. I've been messing with cars for about 15 years, and never seen a need for it.
I had a '71 El Camino that sat for 10 years. Pulled the wheels with no problems. My Z sat for 2 years, pulled the wheels with no problems. If the studs are old enough to rust and break they all get replaced...
Just my $0.02
I had a '71 El Camino that sat for 10 years. Pulled the wheels with no problems. My Z sat for 2 years, pulled the wheels with no problems. If the studs are old enough to rust and break they all get replaced...
Just my $0.02
I do put it on my wheel studs, if they are torqued properly they will not come loose, it is the stretch that is put on the bolt/stud that keeps them tight not thread friction. I also use it on spark plugs esp. if they are going into aluminum heads. Now studs/bolts in a motor get moly lube put on them, this is the correct way (and the way companies like ARP) reccomend when torquing fastners in an engine.
I used to use it all the time on my last car i had tunner wheels on it and the lug nuts cost me $50 and that was me getting them at cost they where some strange size for some reason. any way i never had a problem.
I never used antiseize on wheel studs although I wouldn't discourage someone who wants to... If you rotate your tires a couple times a year you're not gonna give corrosion enough time to seize the nuts onto the studs any way.
I dont know... There is the torque equation T = K x F x D
Here's what Henkel Loctite says...
"An anti-seize lubricant used on a bolt helps to develop greater clamp load for the same torque compared to an unlubricated bolt. An additional benefit is greater uniformity in clamp load among a series of bolts. The relationship between torque and clamp load is expressed in the following equation:
T = K x F x D
T = Torque (N·m, lb.in, lb.ft)
K = Torque coefficient or nut factor, determine experimentally
F = Clamp load (N, lb.)
D = Nominal diameter of bolt (mm, in.)
Torque coefficient, k:
SAE grade 5, class2, phosphate coated steel nuts & bolts: 0.16
SAE grade 5, class2, phosphate coated steel nuts & bolts, solvent cleaned, not lubricated: 0.19"
When you do the equation, it winds up saying I need to cut torque by almost 40%... thats like going from 100 ft lbs to 60... Its not safe. My argument is that this might be at a theoretical level, but honestly, I dont see how a little antiseize mean you need to change the specs THAt much
Jim
Jim
Here's what Henkel Loctite says...
"An anti-seize lubricant used on a bolt helps to develop greater clamp load for the same torque compared to an unlubricated bolt. An additional benefit is greater uniformity in clamp load among a series of bolts. The relationship between torque and clamp load is expressed in the following equation:
T = K x F x D
T = Torque (N·m, lb.in, lb.ft)
K = Torque coefficient or nut factor, determine experimentally
F = Clamp load (N, lb.)
D = Nominal diameter of bolt (mm, in.)
Torque coefficient, k:
SAE grade 5, class2, phosphate coated steel nuts & bolts: 0.16
SAE grade 5, class2, phosphate coated steel nuts & bolts, solvent cleaned, not lubricated: 0.19"
When you do the equation, it winds up saying I need to cut torque by almost 40%... thats like going from 100 ft lbs to 60... Its not safe. My argument is that this might be at a theoretical level, but honestly, I dont see how a little antiseize mean you need to change the specs THAt much
Jim
Jim
I have used 'Locktite' product for years on wheel studs, never a problem..
I also use it when I'm putting a stud into anything aluminum. I always use studs into aluminum things, not bolts/capscrews. Idea is i don't want to pull out threads from aluminum.
If you install steel studs/screws in aluminum and you DON"T use something for a lube, there will be an 'electro-static' charge build up and things will definately corrode.......
I also use it when I'm putting a stud into anything aluminum. I always use studs into aluminum things, not bolts/capscrews. Idea is i don't want to pull out threads from aluminum.
If you install steel studs/screws in aluminum and you DON"T use something for a lube, there will be an 'electro-static' charge build up and things will definately corrode.......
ORIGINAL: kartracer55
I dont know... There is the torque equation T = K x F x D
Here's what Henkel Loctite says...
"An anti-seize lubricant used on a bolt helps to develop greater clamp load for the same torque compared to an unlubricated bolt. An additional benefit is greater uniformity in clamp load among a series of bolts. The relationship between torque and clamp load is expressed in the following equation:
T = K x F x D
T = Torque (N·m, lb.in, lb.ft)
K = Torque coefficient or nut factor, determine experimentally
F = Clamp load (N, lb.)
D = Nominal diameter of bolt (mm, in.)
Torque coefficient, k:
SAE grade 5, class2, phosphate coated steel nuts & bolts: 0.16
SAE grade 5, class2, phosphate coated steel nuts & bolts, solvent cleaned, not lubricated: 0.19"
When you do the equation, it winds up saying I need to cut torque by almost 40%... thats like going from 100 ft lbs to 60... Its not safe. My argument is that this might be at a theoretical level, but honestly, I dont see how a little antiseize mean you need to change the specs THAt much
Jim
I dont know... There is the torque equation T = K x F x D
Here's what Henkel Loctite says...
"An anti-seize lubricant used on a bolt helps to develop greater clamp load for the same torque compared to an unlubricated bolt. An additional benefit is greater uniformity in clamp load among a series of bolts. The relationship between torque and clamp load is expressed in the following equation:
T = K x F x D
T = Torque (N·m, lb.in, lb.ft)
K = Torque coefficient or nut factor, determine experimentally
F = Clamp load (N, lb.)
D = Nominal diameter of bolt (mm, in.)
Torque coefficient, k:
SAE grade 5, class2, phosphate coated steel nuts & bolts: 0.16
SAE grade 5, class2, phosphate coated steel nuts & bolts, solvent cleaned, not lubricated: 0.19"
When you do the equation, it winds up saying I need to cut torque by almost 40%... thats like going from 100 ft lbs to 60... Its not safe. My argument is that this might be at a theoretical level, but honestly, I dont see how a little antiseize mean you need to change the specs THAt much
Jim
Correct. This is why a company like ARP will publish torque specs for both moly lube and engine oil (the later is more commonly, allbeit wrongly, used) the differance in torque can be pretty big between the two.
I dont know, maybe its because Im not an engineer (yet
, soon hopefully) How important is it REALLY? I mean, Nobody wants to loose a wheel, but Id imagine EQUAL torque is more important than having exact torque. If I were building an engine, Id follow specs from ARP about what they want thier bolts torqued too. I def want to look into this more to get a better understanding of it all.
Jim
, soon hopefully) How important is it REALLY? I mean, Nobody wants to loose a wheel, but Id imagine EQUAL torque is more important than having exact torque. If I were building an engine, Id follow specs from ARP about what they want thier bolts torqued too. I def want to look into this more to get a better understanding of it all.Jim


