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Old 01-20-2006, 11:37 PM
  #1  
nexteldone
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Default ENGINE BUILDERS

I HAVE A 2000 MUSTANG. Oil pump failed, need a new engine. I am looking for 4.6 possiby even stroked. I was wondering what Engine builders/companies have the best engine/deal. I've been looking around and am just overwellmed with the choices, can anyone point me in the right direction. If possible give plusses or minuses. This car will be driven on the street on a weekly basis, not looking for a race engine, just more H.p than stock. Warranty not important , but wouldnt be discouraged either...
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Old 01-21-2006, 07:39 AM
  #2  
NeoTokyo
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Default RE: ENGINE BUILDERS

You need to tell us what year mustang you have and what model with what transmission, just a good basic overview.

Seeing that you mentioned warenty its most likly a 99-04 Mustang.

I would personally suggest a 32V engine of your choice, Cobra or Mach1. My personal favorite is the Mach1.

You can buy a complete swap for about $4500-5000 Here is a good EXAMPLE You can also buy just the motor new from Ford for about $5500 bux. It will make 310hp for the 04' model year, 305 for the 03' model year.
From there you can buy a stroker kit, Livernoise makes an awesome ballanced kit that strokes it to a 5.0 with all forged materials for about $1780

I got my whole swapover for about $3100 and then got $500 back because they forgot the shaker and failed to inform me that it was an auto engine (Cast crank) and not a manual with the steel crank. So I bought the livernoise kit. What I got was the same thing you see above in ebay just without the fuel and guage cluster. I did get more then that one in that I got the complete Tokiko IFS suspension. I did not on the other hand get the ehaust, I didnt want it anyways I have my own. The place i bought my engine from is called GreenLeaf, a guy named Art was my sales rep. My engine had 500miles on it when i got it. I had some problems for quite some time but they money he refunded helped.

You can get into an engine and transmission for about $2500 if you search for the right deal. Spend another $1800 on the kit, then have a shop install it for you (I was quoted $400-600 at Throttle stop here in Roseville Ca. for the instalation and installed Ballance and blueprint.) You will be in the engine about $5000 dollars for a fresh 5.0 CAMMER. Ford charges $14,999 for their 5.0L Cammer. Its a hell of alot better upper intake but everything else is the same except the heads. Be sure not to fall for the stupid Navigator Engine/Mach1 engine bullhooptie out there, they claim its the same but the InTech is by far not the same or assembled the same.

Now if you dont want to deal with the mach1 then you can get into the 99+ Cobra for about the same price. An 03/04 will start running you about $8000 and a new crate engine is $12,999 I think, I may not be right on that figure though. 96-98 Cobra engines will run you about $2500 average but you can find better deals out there too, their heads flow better then the 03/04 cobra heads too.

If you looking for the cheapest mod motor to go then get the 96-98 Cobra, stroke it to a 5.0L or 5.4L whichever you decide and then either slam some high CR pistons in there or toss a set of 8.5:1's in there and supercharge it. Thats the cheapest way to go.

well good luck, the best thing for you to do is hunt around, make sure you have the money for the engine too because when those deals come they do not stick around for anyone, I got REALLY lucky on my engine. Get about $4G's saved up and then go to town searching for the right deal.


Oh hey one more thing, if you already have a mod motor be it a 2V or 4V and you just had the oil pump go out and didnt break anything and damage the block then just rebuild the block you have now, you will save a few grand.

PS.... Buying somone elses completed block will almost always cost the most unless they just want to get rid of it, and thats damn rare. The average price for a 5.0L Cammer that someone makes is $8000 bux.

Good Luck


-Neo-
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Old 01-21-2006, 08:01 AM
  #3  
NeoTokyo
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Default RE: ENGINE BUILDERS

Hey I just saw that you have a 2000 Mustang, sorry I didnt see that part, in that case you will want to go with a 99+ model engine, the BAR wont allow an older engine then the body style allows, of course they dont ever have to know if you cover it up right

In your case being a V6 (I am assuming you are a V6) then you will have a ton of crap to update. The rear end and suspension at all 4 corners will be the first problem. A 7.5" wont hold up long under alot of torque, it may be lighter than an 8.8" but the case of an 8.8" is so much stronger, not to mention a larger thicker stronger ring and pinion gear. You can built a strong 7.5" but 8.8" swap is the most popular. After a complete suspension and brake upgrade you need to upgrade your guage cluster and ECU. You K-Frame is the same as the GT or Cobra so you will be fine there. The next big thing to upgrade is your cooling system, you have alot more power now and need to keep that heat down. After that there are alot of little things that need to be done as well. Battle boxes for your torque boxes where you controll arms push and pull on should be upgraded. New driveshaft will be needed too.

If you dont want to do such a huge huge huge huge build up right away then I suggest heading over to www.supersixmotorsports.com and checking into their crate engines. They make some awesome Six Bangers that can spank the GT's and Cobra's. A complete 4.3L stroker kit with their max head port and valve size incease and custome sheetmetal intake will run you about $6600 bux. Thats for the best of the best though, that engine can handle way over 600hp, close to about 800ish. They have made 550rwhp on that engine reliably. This is supercharger, N20'ed or Turbo'ed though, whichever you choose. For a NA car they made 409bhp out of one of their early model 4.3L stroker, now they have refined their engines more and lightened them and increased RPM and powerband.

You will find yourself still needing to upgrade you suspension as before but not as much will need to be changed, wont need to change your guages and ECU and wiring harness. No change in cooling system except radiator and e-fan. You will also find yourself a few hundred pounds lighter giving you as much as 3/10ths of a second advantage. If you install a QA1 Tubular K-Frame and suspension kit along with a flaming River manual rack setup you will drop another 2/10ths. Thats 1/2 second in just weight reduction!

Now you dont have to start out with the best of the best from Mike, you can buy his best shortblock and put your own uppers on and only have to spend about $3500 and still make about 300bhp NA with propper bolt ons. Later on you can buy his Stage3 heads and then sheetmetal intake and then get a supercharger kit. At least with the V6 you can build on it so you dont have to spend so much money at once.


PPS... If you go with a V8 can I have your V6? I am looking for a few extra blocks to work with. PM me where you live and if your interested.


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Old 01-21-2006, 04:31 PM
  #4  
nexteldone
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Default RE: ENGINE BUILDERS

sory about the mix-up heres is what my car is:

2000 mustang
4.6 engine code X
5-speed
no warranty

oil pump quit, instead of rebuilding my own engine figured i would just drop in one instead of waiting weeks for the machining of my block and then having to assemble everything.

Want to spend under 5,000, this is a street engine, not a race engine

Warranty on the new engine would be a plus ( ie ford, or other manufacturer that does this) but is not required.

Wont have to change to many other accesories, computer etc ( i would like this a painless and simple process with MORe h.p over stock )

DSSracing.com is in my area , leaning towards them right now, for convienence and have had experience with them building a stroker on my 94 347

THis is my 1st 4.6 and basically i just dont know much about these 4.6 engines and what i can do without having to spend thousands of $$ to have the engine run correctly, ive been reading the forums for months and the more info the more i get lost hehe. BUt i think with the above paramaters and some more posts i can get a clearer picturer. AND guys/gals please post your recomendations even if its a link and a one line desrciption i would REALLY Appriciate it.
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Old 01-21-2006, 06:35 PM
  #5  
NeoTokyo
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Default RE: ENGINE BUILDERS

I just checked out their site, from what they are saying it looks like they use the stock 96-98 4.6L block and do the PI head swap on it. Unless you buy the stroker kit the internals are the same. $4200 for a PI engine is a huge waste of money. The only one that seems to be worth the money is the 5.0L strokers they have available and even then they dont tell you what they use to build the engine. You will not see any increase in power over your old engine with their $4200 dollar engine. If you are looking for a stock replacment I have seen them on ebay as low as $800 bux and average $1500.

Call the machine shop and ask them about the engines, ask them what internals they use on the 5.0L stroker. Ask them if they use stock internals for the $4200 4.6L

Remember you want Forged pistons, Forged steel rods and a forged crank. That isnt much to ask for and its a good strong bottom end, you want to stay away from the stock hyperutectic pistons or cast pistons, cast iron rods and cast crank, those are all low end low cost items.

Also, you should spend the extra $120 on ARP rod and main bolts to give you the extra strength for longer milage or higher power.

Good luck

-Neo-
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