Looking to upgrade the internals of the engine to be able to support more boost from my KB.
What are people breaking? Just rods? Rods & Pistons?

What is the cheapest way to allow my engine to safely support 14psi? Anyone done this? What are your experiences & costs involved.

Thanks!

 

People have busted rods and pistons. It's not cheap and you should not go into this without looking at all the cost and expect to pay.

First find a good engine shop. Mine was very good but not cheap (Fox Lake). For my bottom end alone, it cost $3400 (pistons, rods, crank, bored, honed). That did not include the heads, engine removal or install. Nor did it include all the extras such as head studs, plugs, gaskets, flywheel, clutch, etc. If you are looking for cheap, you may be disappointed or get something that fails you down the road. Are you doing this work yourself or do you have a performance shop lined up?

 

I will have a performance shop do it, but I don't want to spend a lot of $$$ improving power output, I plan on doing that with more boost. Just want to make the bottom end bullit-proof.
If rods & pistons are all I need to buy, I'll just find the best ones & buy them & then have my shop do the hard work. Don't plan on any headwork, boring, honing, stroking etc...
I am wanting a good honest 550hp at the rear wheels. My last dyno laid down about 403hp.

Thanks!

 

While you building the bottom end don't forget about upgrading the fuel (fuel pump in particular) to feed the beast and cooling system to keep her from melting down. As far as heads and gaskets I think he was just talking about R&I labor charges although I would go to an upgraded clutch and flywheel since the cars all tore apart anyway and the KBs gonna be putting down mile/tons of torque.

 

Rods and pistons are fine but it is foolish not to add the crank as well. A reasonable rotating assembly should cost you around $2200-$2600 bucks then you have to have it and your block hones and balanced. Take my advice and make sure you get it INTERNALLY balanced, that way if something does break you can fix it without getting the whole motor balanced again. It cost around $150-$250 more to get an internal balance but don't skimp on it IMO. For where you want to be (550 rwhp) your stock fuel pump will actually work just fine and all you're going to need is a BAP. Your kit should have already came with the #39 injectors so you're fine there. Make sure you have the mezuire electric H2O pump and you should be good to go.

From where you're at, you deinfitely need to do your bottom end. The KB's cause the motor to let go when you get over 10 psi. There's not a descent off the shelf one available yet, but a good trans shop should be able to fab you a large heat exchanger to bolt up front and that will help you a lot too if this is to be a daily driver. Should be able to get everything you need to be safe bought & installed for around $4000.

 

Awesome, that's exactly the information I was looking for. Thanks!
Anyone suggest any brands? How do I know which ones are the least likely to break?

 

There are a lot of pistons to choose from and many of the big boys go with the JE with cermaic coating but they are a little pricey. The probes are about $600 cheaper and are descent. The rods and crank are easy cause most everyone gets the same - manley rods and a cobra forged crank. The Kenne Bell seems to be the BAP of choice also. For where you want to be you're not going to need valves or headwork, but I would recommend getting manley valve springs and with the right tool, they can be swapped without even pulling the heads. I wouldn't recommend trying it yourself cause it is tricky as heck but it can be done by a knowledgable shop.

 

At those power levels just stick with Manley rods and pistons. You can also get a Kellogg crank, its just as good as the Cobra crank but less expensive. I would also dump the BAP and get dual fuel pumps. The BAP is a bandaide that will work but its not as good as having dual pumps. Just order the wiring for the piggyback pump from Vortech, then get another focus pump.

 

Do you have a price/link for the kellogg? Also, I understand the BAP is a bandaid but is dual pumps really neccessary with 550 HP. I have heard the BAP is a good working option for up to 550 with the #39 injectors.

 

KB 8# intercooler only 408hp... you didnt get it re-tuned did you?