I went 306 and 303 at the wheels:

C&L Intake - ~300 dollars
Steeda UDP's - 250 dollars
Pypes O/R H pipe 180 dollars
Custome Dyno Tune by Bamachips w/ SCT 399 dollars

Around 1150 in Mods... Not too bad.

I don't understand some peoples numbers, many people (i.e. Steeda, Roush, etc.) have said the 4.6 3V max out with Exhaust, Intake, UDP's, and tune around 307 to 311whp.


[IMG]local://upfiles/22605/932D72DEA21A4DB38D7AE58A627D9105.jpg[/IMG]

 

I'm putting down 308.11 rwhp and 321.45 torque. I've got the c/l intake, brenspeed tune, udp, kooks headers with x-pipe and free flow cats. I just added the meziere electric water pump, which should give me 3 or 4 more h.p. I'm getting ready to drop some 4.10 gears in and an aluminum driveshaft. Should have the gears in sometime next week, and hopefully the aluminum driveshaft by the end of the month. These cars are a blast to drive and add mods to. Thinking about the Zex nitrous kit with a 75 h.p. shot, just need to do some more research. Oh yeah I forgot about the frrp stingers.

 

SCT w/ dyno'd custom tune, Steeda Intake, Steeda Underdrive Pulleys, Plasma Booster Ignition, JBA Long-Tube Headers, JBA Off-Road H-Pipe, JBA Evolution Exhaust, Ford Racing 3.73 Gears, Ford Racing FR500 18" Rims, BFGoodrich g-force t/a KDW 275/35/18 tires, Eibach Pro-Kit Springs, Steeda Motor Mounts

All that got me to 315HP/333TQ at the wheels

 

so, it seems that the C&L is the preferred intake. Didn't it make less power than the JLT though?

And I also read where a tech tested both the C&L and Tunable, and preferred the tunable, as it was more consistant easier to tune with, and made like 2whp more across the band.

I definetely know I am going through brenspeed, just trying to figure out which intake to buy.

As far as the UDP's go, I know there were issues with doing that on the LS1 with belts slipping, underchargind, etc. Are there any issues of that sort on the new 3v?

Oh, my best time with my t/a, with just lid, and cai, was 13.5@107.(tapping the brakes on the 2-3, and 3-4 shifts) I would be happy with that out of the 3v. I know I can't compare the 3v vs the LS1 but just in the ball park would be great.

 

I'm at 308 / 318 at the wheels with the mods i have listed, may get alum. drive shaft next then work on suspension cause i want a s/c bad just wish they were cheaper.

 

No problems at all with the udp's. If you decide to go with the Meziere electric water pump you will need an inch shorter belt from NAPA. I'd recommend the Steeda udp's instead of the Meziere, you can still use the stock belt.

 

I put down 290/305 with a C&L street intake, brenspeed 92 oct tune and slowmasters. I don't think axel back's really make much of a difference but I have Mac's now. Other than that it's stock!

 

300 RWHP isn't to hard to obtain with light bolt ons such as a good CAI/tune, headers, UDPs. But the real goal is speed not dyno #s, right? Don't forget about suspension(LCAs, Tires, etc..) and maybe even put the car on a diet, (1-pc driveshaft, lighter wheels, K-member). Dyno #s will vary greatly with location and climate. I have all the mods in my sig but I wouldn't be suprised if I only put down 235-250 hp due to a 4100+ altittude. But once I'm back home in the STL running 93 I should be around 280-290 RWHP.

 

i am, easy 330 i have an auto..I just ordered the procharger supercharger - 1FP202-SCi STAGE ll _tuner_ kit with: 800 HP
intercooler, D1 Compressor, NO PCM tuning. I have added the fuel pump, fuel pump controller, and injectors to
the kit.

Any thoughts/Advice on this badboy?

 

being conservative, its save to say that I'm at 300 wheel. . . most likely higher, but 300 at least

mods in my sig along with my time