Has anyone fiqured out a way to stop the Hurst shifter from rattling? Mine seems worse somedays.

 

I'd like to read an answer to this too. Mine rattles a bit at higher rpm's. I was thinking some lock tight, but if anyone has a better idea...

 

Mine rattled till the day I sold it, I never could completely eliminate the rattle.

 

I installed mine a year and a half ago and did a few customer ones. None of them rattle.

I use 2 tricks that seem to work.
The kit supplys 2 washers to use with the 2 bolts for the handle. Can those for copper ones instead.
Then crank the bolts really tight (I don't use locktite).
After that, put 2 nuts on the remaining threads at the other side of the handle (see picture).
Crank those up really good too.

Lots of time the ball **** vibrates also. Copper washer on that too.

[IMG]local://upfiles/78700/CB966AE30AAC478EABB55E3DC4275ADD.jpg[/IMG]

 

Copper washers! Thanks pascal, i will try that. I thought mine was the actually linkage rattling, but sometimes it seems like the ball is rattling. I used red loctite on the handle bolts and thought I was going to break one it was so tight.

 

Thanks Pascal. Appreciate the tips.

 

i have an MGWshifter and today i actuallyattempted totackle the vibration/noise problem
i had a slight whir/vibration when the RPM's got around 3K. when i would squeeze the ball really tightly it would, for the most part, go away.
My MGW came with dynomat and a rubber water/dirt guard and a sound insulator which were all installed but there was still vibration noise.

So
I thought the problem was the metal shifterassembleyvibrating aginst the metal chassis so i went to the hardware store and bought neopreme and nylon washers and i went to car toys and bought 2more square feet of dynomat (an adhesive sound dedening material)

I basically took everything out, hardcore covered every possible area of metal chassis that the shifter could rub against with dynomat (and then used the leftovers were ever i could) used the 1 nylon and 1 neopreme washer together on each mounting studinbetween the shifter and the chassis and then reinstalled everything.

It has SERIOUSLY cut the noise out but there is still enough noise to bother me. I cannot think of anything else to do except line the inside of the console with dynomat but that seems so excesive. Im posotive it has something to do with the actual shifter assembley but i have no clue where to start in fixing it.

I think im going to call MGW tmrw and see what they say


Suggestions?

Hunter

 

I just got rid of my Hurst because of a bad vibration sound. I describe it as sounding like those old fashioned wind up alarm clocks with the two bells on top. Brenspeed agreed to take it back under warranty. They said they've gotten a number of returns on them. It's the pivot point inside the shifter that was loose on mine. When I took it off it wasn't tight at all. The pivot ball mechanism was loose. I could pull it up and down and make it click. I went with the Steeda. I think a lot of the Hurst's won't last very long. I really, really liked the performance and look of the Hurst, so I miss that but I didn't trust it to put another in.

 

i dont have anyproblems with my hurst but i did use dynomat...mine is EXTREMELEY stiff compared to my buddies any one know what that could be?

 

Turn the radio up
i dont have any problems with my hurst no noise at all and iv had it for a while now tookit out of the 07 and put it in the 08