I'm running the stock (out of the box) 4" pulley I believe, on my KB 2.6L(intercooled).I never actually measured it. I prob. should. Currently at 10.5psig boost at a peak HP of 452 and 411TQ. If I go down to the sized pulley (what is it?)what would I be possibly looking at HP/TQ wise? I've already got the GT500 fuel pumps and wiring w/39# injectors. Can I do this if I wanted to make a couple runs a the track and not blow my lower end? I know the stock bottom half is rated for around 450-475hp. I just want to ask before I go ahead and pulley swap and end up blowing my lower end out from under me.

Thanks!

 

Its not really the power the blows the cars up at 475 its the tuning. I would do it if you have any highly reputable tuners in your area who have been succesful in it.

I would though go to a 60lb injector those 39's probably wont cut much more power. What maf are your running as well. I have seen people get away with the stock maf but I would talk to who ever is going to tune your car and see what they suggest. What works for them.

For instance I have the SCT BA-5000 and SCT Cal 2 well when Adam from ST tuned my car he swaped it out with all Diablo sense he can make better numbers and tune twice as fast with that set up. So it comes down really to how your car is going to be tuned.

Also is 50 more hp really worth it to you as well? What are the other mods you have done that can better your 1/4 time. The list goes on and on for mods that will help improve track time that do not add HP.

If you dont have one yet I would start thinking about a Drive Shaft and some Sticky Tires.

Also when you start getting into more power with the KB you will need a belt tensioner. I do not know much more aboutthat mod but I am sure other people can tell you what the limit is before you will have issues with that.

 

I have Nitto 555R's for tires 18x10 rims, d-specs, LCAs, UCA, HD panhard Bar/brace blah blah. Hmmm I don't want to upgrade the injectors till I go w/a forged lower end. And running the 90mm mass air meter. Oh yeah Dynatech alum. drive sharft w/saftey loop.

 

nice set up but I am not sure if that will be effecient for any more power. I would hate for you to go get it done and be forced to get the larger injectors because you started the tune.

The only thing you can do is call a tuner. If they have pulled it off but i doubt any one has made that much power with 39's. If they have I would love to see it because that would surprise me. My 42's started to go at 490 and I had to bump it up to the 60's.

Best of luck but Thump_rrr on modularfords.com i am pretty sure can direct you in the right place for the tensioner which you will need once you start making some power

 

Just want a set up to tickle the 500HP mark. and break into the 11s-mid/high 10s. I might have to do the 60# injectors to save for later on when I do blow the motor LOL

 

UGGGGHHH dont say those words blown motor lol

When I blew mine two of my rods took out so many more parts.

Starter
Hood
Oil Pan
Rear End had to be fixed from a crack that a projectile rod left
MAF
Computer
Heads

I am not sure how my computer broke but I had oil all the way in my intake covering my Maf.

Not to mention the tow truck I had to pay for sense my insurance only covers so many miles

You will need the 60's any ways right? So why not do it now. I am sure you can sale your 39's to some one online

 

I thought about that statement after the fact..."yeah, not such a good idea!". What are good choices for forged sets? I was thinking Livernoise...

 

Yeah they are really good. I would stand by there name. I personally would buy an entire short block. One reason its pretty much cheaper. You can sale your stock short block on ebar or long block if you replace every thing for some good cash. Probably enough to cover a new set of heads if you sale your long block.

I run the MMR 5.0 Stroker Block which is an 04 Cast Iron Block with Manley Internals. Which has mad some pretty impressive power. I still have my stock heads and cam's but the heads have a stage II port and polish job on them and Stainles Valves and Springs.

I really do like the MMR blocks. Though they are hit and miss with customer service I guess. They were great with me but I have heard other wise with other people. Personally I have no complaints.They were a weak late on my build but I also ordered it a week before Christmas so that was predictable.

With any major builder though just be patient because they will take there time and it might take forever but with some thing this critical and important let them take as long as they want dont rush any builder.

But yeah I would look into a 5.0 Stroker Block really good blocks and I love mine. I paid 3,200 for my short block. I think the rotating assemblies are pretty damn close to that price as well

 

Livernoise is the route I'm more than likely going to take in October. And I plan to keep the stock block for a Just In Case scenario. Murphy has NOT been on my side as of late with this car...see my exhaust leak thread [:@]. And I will more than likely go stroked to a 301/302. I already have the pre-pleadged offering of help from friends with the neccessary equip. to unload the old and load up the new stuff for little more than the cost of beer, transportation and $100. lol Tuning is another story...XXTuning out here has a pretty damn good rep for the twinscrewed blown stangs.

 

so what are the pulleysize increments for the KB 2.6L?