I needed a jump for the second time........1st time was after a month or so of no driving.Then I ran her too work and back all was fine.......It set for another 3 weeks and needed a slight charge too get the battery up too snuff.
This is a relatively new battery, (march,2012). Is there a battery drain......that is common here?! Or do I need a tender?? Next step is the multi-tool..........see what is happenening there, then it's anybody's guess. Sucks That I think there is a battery draw......seems a little odd too me.

 

Common.

If you're going to store for extended periods you need to put it on a tender, or disconnect the battery. You can get a quick battery disconnect fairly cheap for like $10 at harbor freight or the like.

 

Cool, I have one for the cycle........I'll just use that, although I like the disconnect idea. I do have a list for Harbor freight, might as well add that as well.........Thanks for the reply.

 

It effective, but it will kill radio presets, KAM (keep alive memory for idle and such learning), etc.. Which might be annoying for a weekend car you only use for a few hours.

 

The 05's and '06s tend to have more issues with the Shaker system amps drawing power if the radio is left on when the ignition is turned off. Otherwise, all S197's have a relatively high parasitic current draw (at least more than I've seen on other vehicles). I tend to only drive my Stang about once every few weeks and the only time I put it on a tender was when I stored it for about 5 months.

I would go the route of a tender since you can install the connector permanently so all you do is plug-n-play.

 

I had the same problem with my '06 GT. I live in MN and don't use it hardly at all during the winter months. But sometimes there are emergencies and I have to use it. I now have a battery tender attached at all times during the winter (kept in a warm garage) and have had no issues whatsoever, I like having all the presets where I want them each time I use it. For about $30 it's a no brainer.

 

I will add, as I bashed that out while I was actually trying to do work, is along the lines of what Nuke inferred.

If you're battery is getting a decent charge and it dies in a week to two, then it's likely something is creating a parasitic drain issue. You should be good for at least a month if everything is working right (and you're driving long enough to give the alternator time to charge fully).

May wish to bust out a multimeter, remove the negative terminal and go though the testing procedure for a parasitic drain.

My first guess would be that you're simply not giving it sufficient time to recover or the alternator is weak and it's not sitting on a full charge to start with.

 

Get the battery tested w/ a Midtronics battery tester for free at a shop that sells batteries.

A fully-charged good battery left idle should lose about 10% state-of-charge per month. A battery should not be permitted to remain at or below 50% state-of-charge, to minimize the permanent damage caused by plate sulfation.

 

Yup, could very well be a battery issue. Heat and cold kill batteries..........I sold them back in the day. ( I know all about the failures ). However, I'm leaning towards putting a tender on it in the winter month's. I am using the car more often now and there is no issue. Frigging fuel prices are rediculous again thou!

 

Go with the tender for sure.
Disconnecting your battery won't improve its life span, a tender will.