hooker long tubes...
#2
RE: hooker long tubes...
I installed them on my car last week and I saw about a 2 10's gain on the track, about 15hp. Yes, it is required to remove the upper steering knuckle bolt. Hooker claims that you can than separate the shaft but Im here to tell you they are crazy! You have to remove the drivers side front rack and pinion bolt (the nut is welded on the bottom and must come out through the top) in order to get the shaft to separate. It took me about 4-5 to get the old ones off and 2 hours to put the new ones on. I found that the majority of the bolts can be removed using 1/4" drive tools, especially on the passenger side. You do not have to remove the motor mounts but it would sure make it easier. The exhaust manifold bolts are 13mm nuts and 5mm studs. Take the nuts off first or you will most likely break the 5mm socket. The upper O2 sensors take a little while to disconnect b/c they are hidden behind the block. I also found that using a 13mm gear wrench seemed to help especially on the upper bolts. The exhaust is quite a bit louder but still sounds ok. All in all it wasnt that hard. Make sure you get the car up high if your doing off jack stands, it definitely helps. Hooker also tells you to lock the steering wheel before disconnecting the knuckle. I think it is easier not to do this but mark both ends of the knuckle so you can reinstall it correctly. Good Luck! Let me know if you have any further questions
#7
RE: hooker long tubes...
Ive noticed that some of the paint is flaking off on the lower part of the header, aft of the collector. I got the less expensive coating, more or less high temp paint, b/c I was looking for hp, not looks. Just a FYI
#10
RE: hooker long tubes...
Jtscuba02:
I took it to the track again saturday night and got talking to another guy that had an 05 there. I was consistently running 12.85 all night. He was running 13.0's with a 70 shot of NOS w/ 350hp. In answer to your question and his question of why he was spraying and slower than me w/ 50+ less hp, its all about getting the car to hook up off the line. All ive done to the suspension so far is Mickey Thompson Street ET tires, and drag shocks. After getting the tires hot, I launch the car at 4500 rpms. Im getting 1.70 60' times. The drag shocks are to keep the car from squatting when pulling second and so on. Basically, they are 30/70; 30% force needed to compress and 70% need to rebound. So she squats and then stays there. I currently working on fabricating a few from suspension peices to lighten the from a little. Ill let you guys know how they work. I ended up lossing in the semi finals cause I red lighted. I would have won too b/c the other guy broke out. I won $50 and I guess that isnt too bad to be in the top 4 out of 60+ cars. Ill post pics when I get them.
I took it to the track again saturday night and got talking to another guy that had an 05 there. I was consistently running 12.85 all night. He was running 13.0's with a 70 shot of NOS w/ 350hp. In answer to your question and his question of why he was spraying and slower than me w/ 50+ less hp, its all about getting the car to hook up off the line. All ive done to the suspension so far is Mickey Thompson Street ET tires, and drag shocks. After getting the tires hot, I launch the car at 4500 rpms. Im getting 1.70 60' times. The drag shocks are to keep the car from squatting when pulling second and so on. Basically, they are 30/70; 30% force needed to compress and 70% need to rebound. So she squats and then stays there. I currently working on fabricating a few from suspension peices to lighten the from a little. Ill let you guys know how they work. I ended up lossing in the semi finals cause I red lighted. I would have won too b/c the other guy broke out. I won $50 and I guess that isnt too bad to be in the top 4 out of 60+ cars. Ill post pics when I get them.