Some problems/Concerns
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 10
From: cali
Some problems/Concerns
Hello,
Here are the List of Mods I know I have. I did not put anything on, the previous owner did.
Airaid ShortRam
Cat delete with a xpipe and corsa extreme Axel Back (don't know the name of the xpipe, everything looks custom until you hit the Corsa)
62 twin BBK ThrottleBody
Maybe Stage 1 Comp Camms? (Hard to tell by just a video but here you go:
)
Bama Tuned (I assume since there is a a plate in the engine bay)
BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar
Ford Racing Springs
285 40 18 Z race tires Rear (forgot brand)
245 40 18 z Race tires front (Hans)
Here is the problems/Concerns I have:
1. My car with stock Panhard bar, before I placed the aftermarket, drifted left when the wheels lost traction. It always went the same direction during hard launches and power shifts. After the installation of this bar and supposedly having the car 4 wheel aligned by a professional store, the car now drifts the opposite direction every single time and the left rear wheel is sticking out more than the right rear tire.
2. When I cold start my car (During summer or Winter, Midday or Midnight) the car has this very loud annoying cold start where the car first idles at 2000 RPM and then slowly rises up to 3500 RPM and stays at 3500 RPM before finally dropping slowly down to 1000 RPM and when it warmed up, drops to normal 750 RPM. The car (as I listed in the mod list) has cat delete and fully custom Exhaust. I did once have a Check engine light that cold says "emission leak" and "Lean". I used the Tuner to retune the car with a preset and the problem went away (it cold start and not rise above 2k) for like 1 month before coming back to its current loud cold start. I do notice that the O2 Sensors are disconnected and I don't know how to reconnect them properly as they are all mixed up and I don't know if it will fix the issue or not.
3. Could this be tied to #1
4. Does this look like a crappy Exhaust setup?
I am a car noob. This is my first car I am working on so if you can, please talk to me as I am stupid. I know what parts are and what they do but I don't know how to take it apart, put it in there, or anything like that.
Here are the List of Mods I know I have. I did not put anything on, the previous owner did.
Airaid ShortRam
Cat delete with a xpipe and corsa extreme Axel Back (don't know the name of the xpipe, everything looks custom until you hit the Corsa)
62 twin BBK ThrottleBody
Maybe Stage 1 Comp Camms? (Hard to tell by just a video but here you go:
Bama Tuned (I assume since there is a a plate in the engine bay)
BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar
Ford Racing Springs
285 40 18 Z race tires Rear (forgot brand)
245 40 18 z Race tires front (Hans)
Here is the problems/Concerns I have:
1. My car with stock Panhard bar, before I placed the aftermarket, drifted left when the wheels lost traction. It always went the same direction during hard launches and power shifts. After the installation of this bar and supposedly having the car 4 wheel aligned by a professional store, the car now drifts the opposite direction every single time and the left rear wheel is sticking out more than the right rear tire.
2. When I cold start my car (During summer or Winter, Midday or Midnight) the car has this very loud annoying cold start where the car first idles at 2000 RPM and then slowly rises up to 3500 RPM and stays at 3500 RPM before finally dropping slowly down to 1000 RPM and when it warmed up, drops to normal 750 RPM. The car (as I listed in the mod list) has cat delete and fully custom Exhaust. I did once have a Check engine light that cold says "emission leak" and "Lean". I used the Tuner to retune the car with a preset and the problem went away (it cold start and not rise above 2k) for like 1 month before coming back to its current loud cold start. I do notice that the O2 Sensors are disconnected and I don't know how to reconnect them properly as they are all mixed up and I don't know if it will fix the issue or not.
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2nd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 364
From: BC
Wow. where to start.....buying a modded car without the skills not a great idea. However, it looks like whoever modded this car before you didn't have a lot of skill either. I'm praying for you the guy that fabbed up that cheap-**** exhaust didn't do a cam install.
I'd be a little willing to bet the rear o2s may be still switched on in the tune and it's confusing the ecm (computer). There is NO reason to disconnect the O2s. One can just switch them off when tuning the car if running catless.
The car does look like someone backed over something sharp and bent the LCA mount. Get a cheap set of poly lca like UMI (about $100) because the rubber doesn't look in good shape anyway on these. That is truly is an easy install and will tell you if you are tracking straight. The car will always pull to one side or another, generally to the right slightly under a low traction situation. This is bc of the way the ring and pinion are situated in the rear end. It is normal to have the rear protrude slightly more to the left, (especially if lowered) and that's why people buy adjustable PH bars.
I think you need to do some datalogging. D you have an X3 or X4 tuner? I'd like to see your Short term fuel trims, Long term fuel trims, spark advance and spark advance v2 for a start. The racing idle suggests you might have a vac leak between the Mass Airflow Sensor and the throttle body.
I'd be a little willing to bet the rear o2s may be still switched on in the tune and it's confusing the ecm (computer). There is NO reason to disconnect the O2s. One can just switch them off when tuning the car if running catless.
The car does look like someone backed over something sharp and bent the LCA mount. Get a cheap set of poly lca like UMI (about $100) because the rubber doesn't look in good shape anyway on these. That is truly is an easy install and will tell you if you are tracking straight. The car will always pull to one side or another, generally to the right slightly under a low traction situation. This is bc of the way the ring and pinion are situated in the rear end. It is normal to have the rear protrude slightly more to the left, (especially if lowered) and that's why people buy adjustable PH bars.
I think you need to do some datalogging. D you have an X3 or X4 tuner? I'd like to see your Short term fuel trims, Long term fuel trims, spark advance and spark advance v2 for a start. The racing idle suggests you might have a vac leak between the Mass Airflow Sensor and the throttle body.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 364
From: BC
That s certainly too bad. You might want to make sure the pins are straight in the obd connector and check for power at the connector as well. As for replugging the O2s, well, probably not. If they were disconnected, it's likely because somebody was planning on turning them off. Maybe they did, maybe they didn't. Honestly, I'm just shooting in the dark here without some datalog evidence. You might as well plug them in and try it. It'll throw a light quick if you are catless and they are turned on; the fact there is no light now suggests they are off.
Check for vac leaks like I suggested, between the MAF and the TB. You ca do that by checking the intake tube clamps with a screwdriver and tightening them if necessary.
Check for vac leaks like I suggested, between the MAF and the TB. You ca do that by checking the intake tube clamps with a screwdriver and tightening them if necessary.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 10
From: cali
That s certainly too bad. You might want to make sure the pins are straight in the obd connector and check for power at the connector as well. As for replugging the O2s, well, probably not. If they were disconnected, it's likely because somebody was planning on turning them off. Maybe they did, maybe they didn't. Honestly, I'm just shooting in the dark here without some datalog evidence. You might as well plug them in and try it. It'll throw a light quick if you are catless and they are turned on; the fact there is no light now suggests they are off.
Check for vac leaks like I suggested, between the MAF and the TB. You ca do that by checking the intake tube clamps with a screwdriver and tightening them if necessary.
Check for vac leaks like I suggested, between the MAF and the TB. You ca do that by checking the intake tube clamps with a screwdriver and tightening them if necessary.
Im about to weld in high flow cats. So ill put in the o2 sensors and buy a new tuner.
I put new lower and upper control arms. And readjusted my panhard bar. Car controls fine now.
My car has an engine light atm. It says too lean and emission leak. My air to fuel ratio guage is not stable. It is always jumping around between 13 and 17.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 364
From: BC
Probably lots of leaks in that exhaust but, if the rear o2s are switched off, it might not be detectable by the engine management. I'd really look at junking the whole mess and buying a decent exhaust, all from one manufacturer. You may end up chasing your tail with the muffler shop one you have. The codes do sound like typical response for a significant exhaust leak though, too lean on the bank identified. There are other causes possible, like the vac leak I identified earlier.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 10
From: cali
I talked to a specialist. He recommend me getting a new tuner and retune my car. He says 13 - 17 AFR is terrible for idle and WOT and can damage my engine. So I will be tryng to repair my Tuner/ buy a new one and get those free tunes for life thing.
I replaced my Lower control arms with BMR poly oens and they reduced my rocking a little from side to side. I readjusted my Panhard by looking on Youtube. Made a difference in the line and the wheels are now even. IDK what the upper control arm did but I got a BMR poly upper control installed as well.
I told him how my car rocked forward and back a little after hitting a bump at slow speed or if im driving in low gear low speed, he recommended me getting Koni Struts and shocks.
He says my exhaust is fine, that the discoloration is normal due to the type of material in the exhaust and when the exhaust was fitted that the shop might of had to do some minor bending to get it to fit properly. The O2 sensors not a problem if I get a tune.
I replaced my Lower control arms with BMR poly oens and they reduced my rocking a little from side to side. I readjusted my Panhard by looking on Youtube. Made a difference in the line and the wheels are now even. IDK what the upper control arm did but I got a BMR poly upper control installed as well.
I told him how my car rocked forward and back a little after hitting a bump at slow speed or if im driving in low gear low speed, he recommended me getting Koni Struts and shocks.
He says my exhaust is fine, that the discoloration is normal due to the type of material in the exhaust and when the exhaust was fitted that the shop might of had to do some minor bending to get it to fit properly. The O2 sensors not a problem if I get a tune.
2nd Gear Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 364
From: BC
Basically ok advice and I defer since he's actually looking at the real thing, not pictures over the internet. He's certainly right the wavering AFR is a problem. I'd be looking for a solution to that before I tuned though, in case it's a mechanical issue like a vac leak.
Don't get sucked into tunes for life crap. Pick a solid, reputable tuner, (preferably one local, if possible) that gets these cars. You are dealing with a modified vehicle and may encounter additional roadblocks in tuning. If there are cams in there no one will touch the car remotely, most likely. I'd bet they are stock cams though and your rough running is due to what we are talking about. Lund, AED, Steeda, VMP, lots of good solid tuners out there with loads of experience.
If you can get some datalogs I'll be happy to look them over.
Don't get sucked into tunes for life crap. Pick a solid, reputable tuner, (preferably one local, if possible) that gets these cars. You are dealing with a modified vehicle and may encounter additional roadblocks in tuning. If there are cams in there no one will touch the car remotely, most likely. I'd bet they are stock cams though and your rough running is due to what we are talking about. Lund, AED, Steeda, VMP, lots of good solid tuners out there with loads of experience.
If you can get some datalogs I'll be happy to look them over.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 10
From: cali
Basically ok advice and I defer since he's actually looking at the real thing, not pictures over the internet. He's certainly right the wavering AFR is a problem. I'd be looking for a solution to that before I tuned though, in case it's a mechanical issue like a vac leak.
Don't get sucked into tunes for life crap. Pick a solid, reputable tuner, (preferably one local, if possible) that gets these cars. You are dealing with a modified vehicle and may encounter additional roadblocks in tuning. If there are cams in there no one will touch the car remotely, most likely. I'd bet they are stock cams though and your rough running is due to what we are talking about. Lund, AED, Steeda, VMP, lots of good solid tuners out there with loads of experience.
If you can get some datalogs I'll be happy to look them over.
Don't get sucked into tunes for life crap. Pick a solid, reputable tuner, (preferably one local, if possible) that gets these cars. You are dealing with a modified vehicle and may encounter additional roadblocks in tuning. If there are cams in there no one will touch the car remotely, most likely. I'd bet they are stock cams though and your rough running is due to what we are talking about. Lund, AED, Steeda, VMP, lots of good solid tuners out there with loads of experience.
If you can get some datalogs I'll be happy to look them over.
He said to tune the car because it is a common problem for people to get a cold air intake and not have a tunewith it and run lean