Has anyone heard of or has a trunk light tilt switch? Thanks

 

trunk lid has a plunger like the one under the hood, at least on the 05' thru 09' cars. get your radio issue fixed?

 

Still looking at battery drain, have it on a float charger for now, the battery does not hold a charge very well, maybe I need a new one. The switch you are talking about is not there in this car, that is when I read something about a tilt switch, which must be similar to a house thermostat. Trying to figure out where it would be in the trunk wiring. Thanks a bunch for your help and interest!

 

have you actually done a parasitic draw test on the car? If you have did you take the key away from the car and let it sit for awhile before you did it?

Also when you hook the meter in series with everything off you will see some initial mA because some of the controllers will wake up. Once you hook the multimeter up you gotta wait a few minutes to let everything go back to sleep. Once everything is settled down, then anything over 2mA is going to cause a draw. It's my experience that it's usually something that has to do with the door or trunk switch thinking the door/trunk is always open. If you've got a lot of aftermarket radio or alarm stuff in the car there could be a problem there, depending on where the systems are getting power from.

Is there any aftermarket electrical stuff on the car?

If you set the interior lights to come on when the door opens, do they go out shortly or does it take a long time for the interior lights to turn back off?

is the trunk light staying on after you've closed the trunk?

 

On the parasitic draw test, I did try it on the negative battery cable, I got 500 milliamps if I remember correctly. Things got strange, when I tried a second time, alarm went off, and the next time it was the emergency flashers. I read this can happen. The after market stuff that is in the car that I know of is the start button, and the sequential tail lights.
I think the courtesy lights are normal, just fade to off. The trunk light might be it, there is no plunger switch, if it has a tilt switch I haven't found it. I have the light disconnected and the battery is holding a charge better. Thanks for your time and input!

More info, closed trunk lid, then opened stays on 12.20 volts quite awhile in open position, then drops to .66 volts and stays there in the open position. Thanks

 

5A of draw is a pretty good battery killer. Generally what you want to do now is to leave the meter hooked up and start pulling fuses until the draw goes away. That will tell you what circuit the draw is on. I'm not super familiar with your specific fuse layout but generally I start with stuff that has to do with the doors, trunk, and interior lights. If nothing else just start pulling them out (put them back in if you don't notice your draw go away) one at a time. You'll want to either do this with the door closed and key away from the car or tape the door switch shut so the car thinks the door is closed.

I'm not really sure what you just told me about testing the trunk switch.

 

The only one I think I figured out is the trunk light goes to sleep at .66 volts and won't even light the bulb, never have found a switch. There are two ways to do the test pull the fuses or check the top of the fuses with the multimeter. As I stated before I had some problems with things going bonkers, when pulling fuses, the alarm and emergency flashers went off. Thanks again for the interest.

 

the trunk switch is integrated into the latch

 

Thanks, I am going to pull the radio fuse in the passenger kick panel and leave it out over night and see what happens. A friend loaned me his CTEK float charger it brings it up to 12.72 volts, I disconnect it and let it sit overnight, it drops about .38 volts. Thanks again...

I pulled the Shaker front amplifier 30 amp fuse first as it is easier to get to, it has power to it with the radio off. Not normal I gather. Thanks