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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 08:23 AM
  #11  
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It still sounds like it is time for the dreaded trip to the dealer.
Old Mar 9, 2017 | 04:49 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by proeagles
If you don't have a scanner and other expensive electronic tools, I doubt you can fix the car yourself. You paid $60K+ for the damn car, let them fix it correctly the first time. I have one and they are damn complicated.

I'm knew to the forum not to the car industry. I've built many race cars and have all the tools I need to take the car apart. I was trying to see if anyone else has had the same issue maybe they can share what the problem was before spending time to figure out the issue myself. I got a scanner last night.

Before the mustang I had a 2015 Z/28 before that 2012 CTSV Car made 697HP pump gas at 6,700 RPM. Before the CTSV i used to build Imports. I can go on and on. Not trying to brag but I have a lot of knowledge about cars Been doing this for a very long time I'm also a photographer I'll share some photos.
Old Mar 9, 2017 | 05:00 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by barstowpo
It still sounds like it is time for the dreaded trip to the dealer.


I know right
Old Mar 9, 2017 | 05:07 PM
  #14  
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Here are some of my cars I've built. Car's are not complicated. It can only be a sensor or vacuum leak or a throttle body issue. Doubt it would be a wiring problem or a knock in the motor. I'll check the code and post results



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Old Mar 9, 2017 | 05:09 PM
  #15  
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Here are some of my cars I've built. Car's are not complicated. It can only be a sensor or vacuum leak or a throttle body issue. Doubt it would be a wiring problem or a knock in the motor. I'll check the code and post results



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[URL=http://s38.photobucket.com/user/turbopoweredpacman/media/2011_1_30388.jpg.html]
Old Mar 9, 2017 | 06:51 PM
  #16  
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Hopefully the code is just something stupid that can be fixed quickly. That shouldn't happen regardless of what vehicle it is (barely driven off the factory).
Old Mar 11, 2017 | 02:19 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by 99GTvert
Hopefully the code is just something stupid that can be fixed quickly. That shouldn't happen regardless of what vehicle it is (barely driven off the factory).
Thank you.

Finally figured out the issue This is why it's very important for people to share information on tech section to help each other out. I noticed the wrench light would usually turn on at incline or when brakes are applied. I also noticed the Hill Clime Assist wouldn't work all the time. The issue was the brake switch. Bad Brake switch. Problem solved.

Thank you
Old Mar 11, 2017 | 02:59 PM
  #18  
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Sharing that info is helpful. Nice work.

Juat curious if the switch was simply defective or what happened to it. Is that part located somewhere in the engine bay? Or underneath the car?
Old Mar 12, 2017 | 01:08 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by 99GTvert
Sharing that info is helpful. Nice work.

Juat curious if the switch was simply defective or what happened to it. Is that part located somewhere in the engine bay? Or underneath the car?


Yes defective switch. The part is right by the brake pedal inside the car

Last edited by JimC; Mar 12, 2017 at 11:04 AM. Reason: fixed typo - pedAL not pedDLE
Old Mar 12, 2017 | 10:49 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by GT350NA
Yes defective switch. The part is right by the brake peddle inside the car
.
So, now that you figured out what the issue is, who pays for the new switch ?

.



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