USMCrebel

Still nothing for Melanie.
BUT my 1967 SVO coupe is moving along, and hopefully this week and next will lead to the engine/ transmission being removed from the 67. Next week should be the disassemble of the Merkur and removal of the 2.3 T engine. maybe fabrication of the brackets to mount it in the car. As far as i know it will be the only 1 in the south east like this. I might be changing the injectors out looking for 300rwhp in my 2800lb full weight+driver car.

Oh and Sub just for you i might be picking up a trans for my next project. $50 for a working c4 i just have to pull it comes with a 2800 stall too.

japan4racing

that sounds pretty cool..you gonna get a larger turbo or anyting like that? 300whp in a 2800 car should be pretty fun..the fastest civic i had was 2650 with me in it with roughly 300whp and it went 12.2 @ 117mph

you gotta post some pics of this project..im def interested to see something like that

USMCrebel

Nah the T3/T4 on there is good to about 300rwhp maxing out the turbo. it should get around 20-27 mpg ( doesn't really matter though) i'll try to throw some pictures up this afternoon or tomorrow.*

* i am moving right now so time is very limited. and my internet my or may not be hooked up yet.

now the other project is just in the developing stages. an FC RX7 with either a TT 302 or a 2.3 T. I am leaning in the direction of the 2.3 jsut b/c i can get the same if not more power ~550 on stock guts, as far as i know a block hasn't been split yet.

these are some 2.3l turbo builds
http://www.turboford.net/ubb/ultimat...c;f=3;t=017352

japan4racing

svo motors came with t3/t4's on them? i thought they were a straight t3 like on the old turbo thunderbirds.

USMCrebel

you would be correct, the flange is t3/t4 or some ****, a very constricted turbo, that's why it will be going away a soon as i can get the motor out of the car.

Another update i will be picking up a C4 which craigslist had for $50 in running condition with stall and flex plate! a little bit later iw ill get a master rebuild kit with steel bands instead of the weak **** in there now.

japan4racing

well the flange is t3...it cant be both...you can actually make decent power on a straight t3 and a 4 banger...a 60 trim t3/t4 will get you into the 450whp range efficiently and not be so laggy...depending on how far you wanna rev. i hit full boost by 5k rpms with a 60 trim..i was reving to 9500 too though..so later spool didnt bother me

USMCrebel

good god, im thinking full boost at 3500-4k and rev to 6500-6800. what motor were your revving that high B16, b18, H22?

Turbo's are > me so im just copying a build then adding a 150shot.

japan4racing

a small t3/t4 or a straight t3 will do what you need and have room to grow. there is a bunch of info to consider when getting a turbo and alot of it is kinda confusing...but with out getting too detailed the t3 would do very well...might looking it a gt28r disco potato that would probably be ideal since you want quick spool ups.

i had a gsr motor b18c1..it held up rather well in the 4 years or so i used it..ran many many 12 second passes with a stock motor and a bolt on turbo kit.

USMCrebel

so explain to me the compressor maps and stuff like that. how to you judge the right size turbo? i already have a cam lined up custom grid 0 overlap.

my budyd has a b16a from jap spec'd in a 1400lb 1 gen crx.

japan4racing

i will be honest with you, i know a bit about turbo's but even compressor maps confuse me....there as a time a couple years ago that i read up alot on them and i had them figured out..now its been so long that i forgot it all. basically they show the efficiency of the turbo. you can see on the maps where the turbo performs well with a certaint pressure. i wish i could tell you how to relate that to your motor and how the turbo would react but i simply dont know and im not gonna lie just to try and make myself seem smart. the best i can tell you is if you keep it simple you will find the right turbo and it will work fine. you want faster spool time so a smaller hot side will be good..but you still want good top end so a larger cold side is needed..thats where t3/t4's come from...the quicker spool of a t3 with the flow of a t4.

i could write a novel and make this very confusing but im gonna take my own advice and keep it simple! try not to look at turbos as all being t3 ot t3/t4 or even t4 turbos. the "t" designation is for sizing reference. a t28 flange is way different from a t3 which is way different from a t4. also to say i have a t3/t4 is to say i drive a car....its not specific at all. pay attention to the a/r on the hot side as this will be a direct indicator as to how quick it may spool. a smaller a/r will yeild a quicker spool where as a larger will yeild a later spool.

here is a good learning tool if you really wanna find out accurate info as my info might not be 100% accurate or understandable

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...ch_center.html

you going internal wastegate or exernal? you have more adjustability and accuracy with external but internal will definately cut down on costs