Nitrous Kits
Ok, so I have decided to install a nitrous kit on the mach 1. What is the difference between a wet and dry kit? What is the level of difficulty of installation? Who is the best to buy from? What is the highest shot I should use on a stock mach 1 block?
A wet kit includes both a nitrous and a fuel solenoid that spray a combined mixture into the intake just before the throttle body on most EFI kits.
A dry kit sprays nitrous only, and relies on the cars computer to sense the additional oxygen being introduced, and increase the amount of fuel needed to avoid a dangerous lean condition.
They both have their possible hazards, but personally, I preferred the wet kit over the dry.
I ran a Nitrous Express (NX) wet kit on my stock block Mach 1 for almost 5 years with absolutely no adverse effects. I started out spraying a 75 shot, and once I got used to the mechanics of how it was meant to be used, I upped it to a 100 shot, and eventually a 125 shot. Unlike a lot of the kits out there, the NX kits make the advertised horsepower TO THE WHEELS! So if you run an NX 100 shot, you will see that 100 horsepower show up on a dyno graph.
I would never recommend anyone go over a 150 shot on a stock Mach 1 motor, as that is about as close to the ragged edge as the motor can handle.
Also be sure to include the necessary safety items such as an rpm window switch, blowdown tube, and fuel regulator switch. You will also need to install at least one step colder spark plugs, such as NGK TR6, which are the plugs I ran with my kit.
A dry kit sprays nitrous only, and relies on the cars computer to sense the additional oxygen being introduced, and increase the amount of fuel needed to avoid a dangerous lean condition.
They both have their possible hazards, but personally, I preferred the wet kit over the dry.
I ran a Nitrous Express (NX) wet kit on my stock block Mach 1 for almost 5 years with absolutely no adverse effects. I started out spraying a 75 shot, and once I got used to the mechanics of how it was meant to be used, I upped it to a 100 shot, and eventually a 125 shot. Unlike a lot of the kits out there, the NX kits make the advertised horsepower TO THE WHEELS! So if you run an NX 100 shot, you will see that 100 horsepower show up on a dyno graph.
I would never recommend anyone go over a 150 shot on a stock Mach 1 motor, as that is about as close to the ragged edge as the motor can handle.
Also be sure to include the necessary safety items such as an rpm window switch, blowdown tube, and fuel regulator switch. You will also need to install at least one step colder spark plugs, such as NGK TR6, which are the plugs I ran with my kit.
Last edited by Mach1man; Mar 22, 2009 at 12:15 PM.
i would go with a wet because it mixes fue with th n20 allowing for a safe and efficient delivery. i dont know which is best, but i wouldn't go over a 125-150 shot on our cars
If you doubt your ability with either the mechanicals or the electrical part, I'd have a reputable shop install it. It's worth the piece of mind.
The instructions that come with the NX kits are spot on as far as all the mechanical stuff is concerned, with plenty of good, close-up pictures and such. But, the wiring diagrams have a lot of places where you have to scratch your head, and say, "I wonder if this is what they mean?" It gets even more confusing when you add in multiple switches for things like bottle heaters and purge systems. Like I said, I found the mechanical part a piece of cake, the wiring, on the other hand, left me hanging out there on my own in a couple of places!
Whatever you do just make sure that you do everything right and safe the first mach I ever drove the guy had nitrious on it and had cracked the intake manifold, he didnt say anything about it until we finished and smoke was coming from the engine bay from the leaking coolant. Don't let your car turn out like his.


