Fr500 cams or headers?
12-02-2009, 12:32 PM
#1
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 1,146
Fr500 cams or headers?
Dont know which one I should do here. I found a set of BNIB Fr500 cams with everything else needed for the swap for $950. Also looking at a set of Kooks headers and midpipe which would be around 1200. I wouldnt install either one and wait to have it tuned until I had both. Should I get the cams now since apparently they are discontinued? I hear its a great valvetrain
12-02-2009, 02:56 PM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: The Great Northwest
Posts: 2,821
Dont know which one I should do here. I found a set of BNIB Fr500 cams with everything else needed for the swap for $950. Also looking at a set of Kooks headers and midpipe which would be around 1200. I wouldnt install either one and wait to have it tuned until I had both. Should I get the cams now since apparently they are discontinued? I hear its a great valvetrain
12-02-2009, 06:30 PM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location:
Posts: 1,799
If choice C is boost, put me down for that one. Now if you dont want to get into that I'd say go with the headers/full exhaust, because doing cams alone itsn't going to do much, to get the most out of cams you'll need headers/full exhaust and a ported intake.
Last edited by darkmach1; 12-02-2009 at 06:36 PM.
12-02-2009, 09:51 PM
#4
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Washington
Posts: 883
Let me tell you that it will cost you roughly $2300-2400 to do headers the right way lol. I am having mine installed hopefully this week and the hardware alone cost me about $1800 but I did ARH... I say headers 
12-02-2009, 11:26 PM
#6
Mach I Section Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: round abouts these parts
Posts: 7,140
are you auto or manual?
If manual get the cams and bump your RPMS up to 7500 and get a good tune...it'll be about 1200 as well, but the power increase will blow your mind...your going to be sad with the low end though... but the top end will pull like a raped ape
If auto get the headers.
If manual get the cams and bump your RPMS up to 7500 and get a good tune...it'll be about 1200 as well, but the power increase will blow your mind...your going to be sad with the low end though... but the top end will pull like a raped ape
If auto get the headers.
12-03-2009, 03:42 PM
#7
4th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 1,146
Yes it is a manual car. Im trying to work a better deal on the set right now. I thought I had read somewhere that the hardware that comes with it is not good enough for the install. Something about coil bind? Anyone know anything about it?
Heres the post: Should I just try to buy the cams and get comp springs?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$1100, but kit not perfect for those who are not rebuilding heads. The springs that come with kit require you use the valves that come in kit. Valves are same length, but lock grooves are higher than stock. I had to buy Comp Cams springs and retainers to work with stock groove valves. I have someone buying the springs and valves out of the kit, but looks like I'll still be out about $1100 for cam and springs - not bad if you shop around.
Not sure if Ford Racing will sell cams separately, but that would be the way to go. Then buy your own springs from Comp Cams.
Heres the post: Should I just try to buy the cams and get comp springs?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
$1100, but kit not perfect for those who are not rebuilding heads. The springs that come with kit require you use the valves that come in kit. Valves are same length, but lock grooves are higher than stock. I had to buy Comp Cams springs and retainers to work with stock groove valves. I have someone buying the springs and valves out of the kit, but looks like I'll still be out about $1100 for cam and springs - not bad if you shop around.
Not sure if Ford Racing will sell cams separately, but that would be the way to go. Then buy your own springs from Comp Cams.
Last edited by blackGTcp; 12-03-2009 at 03:46 PM.
12-04-2009, 05:46 AM
#8
corner carver
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 4,371
Just get a blower. It is the best bang for your buck.
Now obviously this is a much more expensive route, but with all the money people spend on trying to make power, you can get a blower and make 400+ easily.
Now obviously this is a much more expensive route, but with all the money people spend on trying to make power, you can get a blower and make 400+ easily.
12-04-2009, 10:51 PM
#9
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 11,302
I saw a dyno the other day where a Mach made 355 rwhp with full bolt ons and FR500 cams/tune, etc. Pretty impressive for a Mach. You can always throw a steeper gear in the rear to make up for the low end, but honestly if you're not going to be happy with 330-350 rwhp, I would do what Dark and Jmac suggested instead of cams. Personally, I'm good with full bolt-ons, gears, suspension, stuff like that. Those mods alone will have you running mid 12s like Ryan. Think hard about those cams AND headers before you drop that much loot on them.
12-05-2009, 03:25 AM
#10
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Maryland
Posts: 4,955
buy 96-98 cobra cams, iirc they go for $150 and you can see 15-20whp out of your mach...
"Just did some desktop dyno simulations for the '03, '01, '98 intake cams and FGT cams. Engine spec'd around my car, only difference was in the intake cams and FGT cam set. HP is at the flywheel."
Peak HP/TQ:
2003 cams: 382@6000, 370@4000
2001 cams: 397@6000, 368@4500
1998 cams: 401@6000, 368@4500
FGT cams: 391@6000, 374@4500
Average HP/TQ
2003 cams: 272/320
2001 cams: 282/327
1998 cams: 284/329
FGT cams:273/320
HP/TQ:
RPM - 2003 cams - 2001 cams - 1998 cams - FGT cams
2000 - 110/289 - 108/283 - 108/283 - 111/292
2500 - 137/288 - 137/289 - 138/290 - 134/281
3000 - 176/308 - 174/305 - 173/303 - 168/294
3500 - 229/344 - 225/338 - 224/336 - 224/336
4000 - 282/370 - 279/366 - 279/366 - 281/368
4500 - 316/369 - 315/368 - 316/368 - 321/374
5000 - 341/359 - 348/366 - 352/368 - 352/370
5500 - 358/342 - 369/352 - 372/355 - 368/352
6000 - 382/335 - 397/348 - 401/351 - 391/342
6500 - 361/292 - 384/311 - 389/315 - 361/292
7000 - 305/229 - 360/270 - 374/281 - 288/216
linky.
http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/...ad.php?t=93205
"Just did some desktop dyno simulations for the '03, '01, '98 intake cams and FGT cams. Engine spec'd around my car, only difference was in the intake cams and FGT cam set. HP is at the flywheel."
Peak HP/TQ:
2003 cams: 382@6000, 370@4000
2001 cams: 397@6000, 368@4500
1998 cams: 401@6000, 368@4500
FGT cams: 391@6000, 374@4500
Average HP/TQ
2003 cams: 272/320
2001 cams: 282/327
1998 cams: 284/329
FGT cams:273/320
HP/TQ:
RPM - 2003 cams - 2001 cams - 1998 cams - FGT cams
2000 - 110/289 - 108/283 - 108/283 - 111/292
2500 - 137/288 - 137/289 - 138/290 - 134/281
3000 - 176/308 - 174/305 - 173/303 - 168/294
3500 - 229/344 - 225/338 - 224/336 - 224/336
4000 - 282/370 - 279/366 - 279/366 - 281/368
4500 - 316/369 - 315/368 - 316/368 - 321/374
5000 - 341/359 - 348/366 - 352/368 - 352/370
5500 - 358/342 - 369/352 - 372/355 - 368/352
6000 - 382/335 - 397/348 - 401/351 - 391/342
6500 - 361/292 - 384/311 - 389/315 - 361/292
7000 - 305/229 - 360/270 - 374/281 - 288/216
linky.
http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/...ad.php?t=93205