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408 stroker swap, help needed

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Old Sep 1, 2012 | 01:33 AM
  #11  
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I am Reptar
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O and since Im going to run boost would you mind giving some advice on intake, heads, fuel injectors, cam, please and thank you
Old Sep 1, 2012 | 03:43 PM
  #12  
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With boost, on say......... a 408.
You'll need 225cc heads, either from AFR or Trick Flow matted to a Victor Junior intake.
I'm not a pro by no means but talk to engine builders at World Performance or even Roush/Yates.
Those guys know what combo works best with a particulate desired HP and so on...
Figure out where you wanna be at, and which budget will get you there, then make your move.
Old Sep 11, 2012 | 07:07 AM
  #13  
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Of course, when you start making all of this horsepower, you'll definitely need to get with me for some UPR Products suspension to make that car hook!
what do you recommend?
Old Sep 13, 2012 | 06:12 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by I am Reptar
Ok you have me sold on boost. But now my dilemma is money. Anyone have a winning lottery ticket I can borrow? lol
Originally Posted by I am Reptar
O and since Im going to run boost would you mind giving some advice on intake, heads, fuel injectors, cam, please and thank you
You could just install the 408 now and add boost later. That's more economical. Plus, it'll give you the chance to get used to 500hp before you pile another 300 on top of that.

I like trick flow, so I'd go with High Ports or TW-Rs with their stage three cam and R-model intake. Just call Trick Flow and they'll tell you want they'd suggest. Heck, you can call my buddy Gregg and Trick Flow and tell him Sharad sent you.


Originally Posted by I am Reptar
what do you recommend?
With regard to suspension, UPR Pro Street suspension. Let me know when you're ready to upgrade and I'll call you to go over all of the small details and choices involved.
Old Sep 13, 2012 | 06:40 PM
  #15  
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A solid build with premium quality parts will run about $15K from top to bottom, good for near 1000HP levels..

Nothing is cheap when you get to those levels.. 500-600 is much easier and cheaper to do and can easily be done for under 9K top to bottom with new quality parts.. Of course, cost goes way down with used or cheaper parts.. These kind of estimates are with pieces that are going to make the power reliably and safely
Old Sep 15, 2012 | 10:41 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by UPRSharad
Thanks. What I was getting at with my initial post is that max N/A horsepower is EXPENSIVE and does not have good street driveability. Whereas the same horsepower level is EASILY attainable with LESS money and GREATER driveability if you add boost.

Like I said 800hp N/A is a big money, poor driveability, high strung deal. Whereas, 800hp boosted can be made with a stock blocked 351 and a Novi2000. Believe it or not, the boosted combo would be cheaper and have better driveability.





The fact that you have exactly what I want to build makes me hate you a little bit. A respectful hate, though.
Old Sep 15, 2012 | 10:52 PM
  #17  
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Well, you have some very intelligent and knowledgeable people helping you, but I'll add my 2 cents as well.

If possible, find a ROLLER 351w to start your build. Roller motors free up horsepower and, as indicated in the name, roll easier with less friction. Only draw back is that the roller 351w was only made in 94-96, making it sort of hard to find, and when you do, people usually want an arm and a leg for them.

When you're doing your build, the more things you can take off the serpentine system, the better. Air conditioning and power steering really sap power, as does a traditional water pump. Delete your power steering, and go google Flaming River for a manual rack and pinion. Then find, or make your own, A/C delete. You can even get electric water pumps. Then you're just down to an alternator and a fan running off your engine.

Upgrade to a really nice MSD ignition system. The 6AL box should be the very lowest standard to use if you're going to shoot for those kind of numbers, especially with boost. MSD makes boost specific systems even. They also have crank sensing systems that work just like your distributor, just on the crank. That would eliminate your distributor, freeing up some strain since your cam doesn't have to run your distributor.

Have you considered doing a "Clevor" build? If you don't know what it is, it's taking Cleveland heads and putting them on a Windsor block. Very old school, very cool. Not many of them running around, and they make pretty good power if you can find the right heads. 4v open heads have similar flow numbers to higher end ARP cylinder heads, I've done the research myself. They are not as nice as TFS offerings, but a HELL of alot cheaper.

Hope some of this information gets your creative juices flowing.
Old Nov 2, 2012 | 06:55 AM
  #18  
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i am getting my 408 built right now...iron eagle block..afr 225 heads...etc...i am told it will be around 550 hp na..i will be going the turbo route in 2 years...9.1 compression..800hp na not very streetable and very expensive..my engine will be like 14,000$
Old Nov 2, 2012 | 08:10 PM
  #19  
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Keep in mind that you might loose torque with the 225 heads on a NA engine...
But the HP will be there for sure.
Oh, and congrats on that combo.
Old Nov 6, 2012 | 05:46 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by craig71springsport
The fact that you have exactly what I want to build makes me hate you a little bit. A respectful hate, though.
All I can say it "be careful what you wish for, you just might get it." Conceptually, my project was awesome. In real life, it has been a huge pain in the butt. And to be completely honest with you [forfeiting my man card here] when we made the first dyno pulls on it last week, it scared the **** out of me! I've owned a low ten second car, I've ridden a low 9-second bike, and I've been around serious horsepower most of my life... and I'm telling you, my car scared the crap out of me!!!

Here's a short video I made of the part throttle drivability tuning we did after the WOT pulls. Remember, this is just low-RPM part-throttle work... and it's still trying to jump off of the dyno!




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