nos
The ultimate kit would be this----> NX 5.0 Plate It comes with the new carbon fiber top, bottom exit Lightning solenoids. I have those on my car and they are eye candy. This one is more expensive but IMO its worth it. If you dont wanna go that far with it you can go with this other great kit------>NX EFI stage 1 It also comes with lightning solenoids. NX has made them the standard solenoid in all their kits. 

The first kit I ever bought for my 92 LX was a ZEX dry system. This kit only came with jets up to a 125 shot but if you wanted more you could buy a .62 jet which is a 150 shot from any manufacturer of summit of jegs. Over all this system was very, very easy to install. there are only 3 wires you have to hook up. The kit is ok quality but not good. The anodizing on the parts scatched off very easily and all the fitting where an ugly brass color as compared to shiny stainless steel in some kits. Another problem is, there is not many places to mount the "purple box" I had to mount it on the shock tower because the feed line would reach from anywhere else. I think Zex kits come with a 15-16 ft feed line as where most other kits have 16-18 ft fedd lines. This gives you flexibility to mount your seliniods wherever you want to. If zex would make there feed line a little longer you could mount the "purple box" just about anywhere. The kit costs $525.00 from Summit Racing or Jegs
This Zex dry kit with a 150 shot combined with a BBK CAI, Longtubes, 2 1/2" H Pipe, Flowmaster mufflers, 3.73 gears and underdrive pulleys made 331 RWHP/ 439 RWTQ and ran a 12.3 @115 on BFG Street Tires.
My next kit was an NOS 5115 Dry kit. This kit good up to 150 shot but I wanted to see if it could flow enough for a 175. It was a little harder to install because it came with a relay box and 4 wires to hook up instead of 3. It also uses a fuel pressure saftey seliniod that gos to the fuel pressure regulator and will spike the fuel pressure to compinsate for the added oxygen going in. This kit is a little better quality then the zex one. All the parts are anodized blue instead of purple with zex. This kit was a very succesful and reliable kit. It cost $550.00 From Summit Racing or Jegs.
This NOS kit with a 175 shot combined with a BBK CAI, GT40 Intake, 70mm TB, 76mm MAF, Longtubes, 2 1/2" H Pipe, Flowmaster mufflers, 3.73 gears and underdrive pulleys made 395 RWHP/ 486 RWTQ and ran a 11.6 @118 on MT ET 26x9" Street Tires.
My next and most current kit is a Nitrous Express Stage l Wet System. This System KICKS *** PERIOD!
If you could picture what a perfect nitrous kit is, this is the one. All the fitting and seliniods were all high quality stainless steel finish. All the instuctions are very easy to understand. These Kits are rated to the wheels so if you wnat a 100 extra horsepower to the wheels you use a 100 shot. Nitrous express is the only I know of who rates there kits like this. This kit is a wet nitrous syem so you dont have to rely on fuel pressure or bigger fuel injectors for extra fuel for the added nitrous. Wet kits can also be tuned by changing the fuel jets for more or less power. Most people say that with wet kits fuel likes to puddle in the lower intake manifold which will cause an explosion when ignited which could also blow the intake manifold apart or through the hood. I have found that if make sure there is no rough edges on the upper and lower intake your good to go. The only kits that will not puddle are the kits that spray it in below the upper intake. These kits are called spray bar kits or direct port kits. If you are going to run a single or dual nozzle kit that sprays the nitrous and fuel thru the upper intake then I suggest going with a shorter runner intake manifold like an Edelbrock Victor 5.0 or a box style one. The only thing I did with kit was upgrade it to the SHO kit. This upgrade kit comes with bigger "Shark" seliniods, a bigger -4an nitrous-to-nozzle line and a bigger single nitrous nozzle. The stage l kit is good up to 200 shot if you upgrade the stock -3an nitrous-to-nozzle line to a -4an but the seliniods can't flow more than a 200 shot. The SHO upgrade kit will allow you to make an extra 400 RWHP all from a single nozzle. I have made a 107 extra RWHP with 100 shot, 167 RWHP from a 150 shot and 262 RWHP from a 250 shot. This kit is without a dought the best kit for the price. It costs $590.00 From Summit or Jegs
There is alot of other really good kits out there but these 3 are the only ones I have experience with.
THE MOST IMPOTANT THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT PUTTING NITROUS ON YOUR 5.0:
1. Nitrous is not a game and can blow your engine to pieces if used incorrectly
2. Always run 93+ Octane to prevent detonation
3. Nitrous adds ALOT of torque. You better get a better clutch or sticky tires unless you plan on spinning your tires or clutch.
4. Most companies tell you to retade the timing 2 degrees per 50 shot. I have found you only need 1 degree or less per 50 shot.
5. Try not to run more than a 175 shot on a 87-92 5.0 with forged pistons
6. Try not to run more than a 125 shot on a 93-93 5.0 with hyperutectic pistons.
7. Anything over a 100 shot wet or dry and you need to upgrade your stock 88lph fuel pump to a 190lph + fuel pump
8. Use a dry kit for 50-150 shot and wet kits for bigger 100-300+ shots.
9. Never run more than a 175 shot with a dry kit because this will cause you to run very lean which will cause
catostrofic engine failure. Trust me I know.
HOPE THIS HELPED A LITTLE BIT
This Zex dry kit with a 150 shot combined with a BBK CAI, Longtubes, 2 1/2" H Pipe, Flowmaster mufflers, 3.73 gears and underdrive pulleys made 331 RWHP/ 439 RWTQ and ran a 12.3 @115 on BFG Street Tires.
My next kit was an NOS 5115 Dry kit. This kit good up to 150 shot but I wanted to see if it could flow enough for a 175. It was a little harder to install because it came with a relay box and 4 wires to hook up instead of 3. It also uses a fuel pressure saftey seliniod that gos to the fuel pressure regulator and will spike the fuel pressure to compinsate for the added oxygen going in. This kit is a little better quality then the zex one. All the parts are anodized blue instead of purple with zex. This kit was a very succesful and reliable kit. It cost $550.00 From Summit Racing or Jegs.
This NOS kit with a 175 shot combined with a BBK CAI, GT40 Intake, 70mm TB, 76mm MAF, Longtubes, 2 1/2" H Pipe, Flowmaster mufflers, 3.73 gears and underdrive pulleys made 395 RWHP/ 486 RWTQ and ran a 11.6 @118 on MT ET 26x9" Street Tires.
My next and most current kit is a Nitrous Express Stage l Wet System. This System KICKS *** PERIOD!
If you could picture what a perfect nitrous kit is, this is the one. All the fitting and seliniods were all high quality stainless steel finish. All the instuctions are very easy to understand. These Kits are rated to the wheels so if you wnat a 100 extra horsepower to the wheels you use a 100 shot. Nitrous express is the only I know of who rates there kits like this. This kit is a wet nitrous syem so you dont have to rely on fuel pressure or bigger fuel injectors for extra fuel for the added nitrous. Wet kits can also be tuned by changing the fuel jets for more or less power. Most people say that with wet kits fuel likes to puddle in the lower intake manifold which will cause an explosion when ignited which could also blow the intake manifold apart or through the hood. I have found that if make sure there is no rough edges on the upper and lower intake your good to go. The only kits that will not puddle are the kits that spray it in below the upper intake. These kits are called spray bar kits or direct port kits. If you are going to run a single or dual nozzle kit that sprays the nitrous and fuel thru the upper intake then I suggest going with a shorter runner intake manifold like an Edelbrock Victor 5.0 or a box style one. The only thing I did with kit was upgrade it to the SHO kit. This upgrade kit comes with bigger "Shark" seliniods, a bigger -4an nitrous-to-nozzle line and a bigger single nitrous nozzle. The stage l kit is good up to 200 shot if you upgrade the stock -3an nitrous-to-nozzle line to a -4an but the seliniods can't flow more than a 200 shot. The SHO upgrade kit will allow you to make an extra 400 RWHP all from a single nozzle. I have made a 107 extra RWHP with 100 shot, 167 RWHP from a 150 shot and 262 RWHP from a 250 shot. This kit is without a dought the best kit for the price. It costs $590.00 From Summit or Jegs
There is alot of other really good kits out there but these 3 are the only ones I have experience with.
THE MOST IMPOTANT THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT PUTTING NITROUS ON YOUR 5.0:
1. Nitrous is not a game and can blow your engine to pieces if used incorrectly
2. Always run 93+ Octane to prevent detonation
3. Nitrous adds ALOT of torque. You better get a better clutch or sticky tires unless you plan on spinning your tires or clutch.
4. Most companies tell you to retade the timing 2 degrees per 50 shot. I have found you only need 1 degree or less per 50 shot.
5. Try not to run more than a 175 shot on a 87-92 5.0 with forged pistons
6. Try not to run more than a 125 shot on a 93-93 5.0 with hyperutectic pistons.
7. Anything over a 100 shot wet or dry and you need to upgrade your stock 88lph fuel pump to a 190lph + fuel pump
8. Use a dry kit for 50-150 shot and wet kits for bigger 100-300+ shots.
9. Never run more than a 175 shot with a dry kit because this will cause you to run very lean which will cause
catostrofic engine failure. Trust me I know.
HOPE THIS HELPED A LITTLE BIT

75-100 hp jets are great for a stock 5.0
you can run 89 octane, stock plugs gapped at .035-.040" timing about 10*-12* and expect to knock off at least 1 full second of ET for about $500 new, or look for a deal on a newer used kit. i have seen 2 month old kits, and even "new in plastic" kits from someone who got scared for $250-$350 complete
you can run 89 octane, stock plugs gapped at .035-.040" timing about 10*-12* and expect to knock off at least 1 full second of ET for about $500 new, or look for a deal on a newer used kit. i have seen 2 month old kits, and even "new in plastic" kits from someone who got scared for $250-$350 complete
ORIGINAL: WLingle92lx
These Kits are rated to the wheels so if you wnat a 100 extra horsepower to the wheels you use a 100 shot.
These Kits are rated to the wheels so if you wnat a 100 extra horsepower to the wheels you use a 100 shot.
ORIGINAL: nitrous_bob
lots of good info here, but you know that 100 jets for this kit are 125 jets for every other kit ? so there is no diff , just a way to sound better, but i'm not knocking the NX kit any way, it's a great kit.
ORIGINAL: WLingle92lx
These Kits are rated to the wheels so if you wnat a 100 extra horsepower to the wheels you use a 100 shot.
These Kits are rated to the wheels so if you wnat a 100 extra horsepower to the wheels you use a 100 shot.
ORIGINAL: FullAuto
Take and NX and NOS nozzle to the dyno. Use a 62 jet in the nitrous side. They NX jet will make more power. I'm not talking 2-3rwhp. It will make considerable more power. I've seen it done first. It made me interested. I tested it myself later to similiar results. I've stumbled on other independant tests across several websites. Same jet, more power.
ORIGINAL: nitrous_bob
lots of good info here, but you know that 100 jets for this kit are 125 jets for every other kit ? so there is no diff , just a way to sound better, but i'm not knocking the NX kit any way, it's a great kit.
ORIGINAL: WLingle92lx
These Kits are rated to the wheels so if you wnat a 100 extra horsepower to the wheels you use a 100 shot.
These Kits are rated to the wheels so if you wnat a 100 extra horsepower to the wheels you use a 100 shot.
Also, Nitrous Bob you said he could run 89 octane on a 100 shot?! Your kidding right?
ORIGINAL: Frostbitten
Also, Nitrous Bob you said he could run 89 octane on a 100 shot?! Your kidding right?
Also, Nitrous Bob you said he could run 89 octane on a 100 shot?! Your kidding right?
i didn't say he could run 16* timing and 89 octane, but stock (10*) and 89 octane yes no probs. if it gets hot outside you need to dump timing or add octane.
i sprayed 14* timing on 89 octane lots of times if it was at night or kind of cool out.
2 points of octane OR 2 degrees of timing for 100 shot if it's under 80* out and not really high humidity is an ok rule of thumb (provided you you were not lean to begin with)
you have to adjust for a lot if you want to run optimal, if you just wanna be super safe all the time and expect 90+ temps, go 10* timing, 91 octane, and 100 jets.
all the man's are VERY conservative, you can cut those rec's in half if you want the most power, i read my plugs often (they don't lie)
nos is new to me but i want it. im jusrt going to get a dry kit but i want to hide it so no one knows. ive seen it done they hid the bottle ib the passenger door and hid all the lines and wires u couldnt tell just by looking at it u could only use a 5 or 10 lbs bottle though
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