Okay, so i got hooked up with a NOS setup from a freind, i dont know anything about the system or Nos in general. I beleive it is a 100 shot?.. i know its a dry shot, i think its a 10lb bottle.. i already got it all hooked up and set, just need to fill the bottle and try it.. so i have some questions about it.

How should the car be tuned?, should i make any changes?, when do i use it; launch?, certain rpm?.. idk.. also anything else you guys can suggest?,, Do's and dont's?

thanks alot!

 

most of the questions u asked are self explanatory if you just look.....

on the bottle label it will show bottle weight and bottle weight + gas....should be about 15 lbs for a 10 lb bottle

anyways....dont b scared, check both fittings and ensure that the jets are right.

42/67 if im not mistaken for a 100 shot, 42 in the nozzle and 67 in the bypass tee

swap them and you squirt 150 so be careful
gap ur plugs at .042 set timing at 10*, use 91 octane for starters and reduce octane b4 you raise timing. get ur best mph and go from there.

are you near fomoso ? or a high elevation track ???

if your fuel pump is original i'd replace with a 190, not cuz u need 190 but the original is probably not at 100%

 

okay, i undertsnaf everything you said except about the jets?...

thanks

 

ok dude you need to hold off before you even try to spray. your questions are just completely noob no offence, you obviously have no idea what your doing and your going to blow your motor with the way your talking.

1) YES, dry kits REQUIRE a tune. don't get one and youll blow your motor.
2) you didnt mention any new injectors. you can't spray a 100+ dry shot on stock injectors, your stockers can't keep up and your going to go lean and blow your motor.
3) you need colder spark plugs
4) you mention stuff about launching at rpms and what not. how is this kit setup? what switches do you have? i highly reccomend you get a fuel pressure cutoff switch, a window switch, and a WOT switch. if you have some fast and the furious bullsh** hooked up with a push button on your steering wheel i'm going to laugh...
5) spraying out of the hole may or may not be a benefit to you. it depends on if your suspension and tires can handle it. if your on stock suspension and street tires, spraying out of the hole may just cause you to spin halfway down the track. this is something you will have to experiment with and find whats good for you and your car.

 

no probs... you have 2 jets. and in combination is what determines the horsepower you are squirting. some of the combinations DO NOT MAKE sense at all. like bigger nitrous and bigger bypass tee jets do not necessarily equal a bigger shot. you need to know the jetting for THE SPECIFIC DRY KIT YOU ARE USING. although most dry kit jetting is copied 100% from NOS5115 kit

where the braided line attaches to the nozzle...there is a jet
then where the bypass tee is, it is a fixed orifice tee (.059 i think????) or it also has a jet in the "out" portion of the tee

if you see someone refer to a #42 jet... thats a .042" jet

42/67 is the combo for 100 hp but if you do 67/42 you will squirt a 150, and squirting 150 also requires you shim the nitrous reg with a washer. supposed to be a specific size and i forget, but a flat washer will work. if you DO NOT shim... you will go super lean

here is the 5115 manual in pdf form

http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...A5130-SNOS.pdf

page 5 has jetting
page 8 should be looked at since ur new
page 9 shows a rough sketch of it all
page 11 shows the jet in the tee (even though this is the original pic, but jetting is for new kits. new kits have the fixed orifice .059" tee and smaller nitrous jet for an 80 hp kit.....the original 5115 used an adjustable tee which you can still get for about $30 and refer the 100 hp jetting i said b4... 42/67)
page14 item "F" has the reg shim. just mic a washer and it will work... get within a few thou and your fine

 

I agree with Nitrous Bob but would install a ignition retard for the nitrous. If you drop the timing to 10 degrees you will loose mph and et. With the timing control, you can still run 14 degrees. You will launch the car at optimal timing and then when you hit the spray, the timing will automatically drop down. For every 100 hp of nitrous, you need to retard the timing 3 degrees. Hope this helps.

 

ok..no worries.. i am a noob at this..lol.

me and my teacher adjusted the timing for the 100 shot..regapped the spark plugs... no I have a switch to active the nos in the power stearing little button... ok Ill just try and see what gives me best results..

thanks

 

thank you sir... youave been very helpful, im kind of catching on.

 

This is what happens when you use nitrous with no window controllers, WOT switch, fuel pressure cut off or a tune.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INhqnGm4vMY

 

omg what an awesome video. whats even better is looking at the comments the author of the video is writing. "god u ppl are ****in gay. haha relax you think we didnt know this bull**** was gonna happen?"

k so you ghetto rigged up a nitrous kit to intentionally **** up your car when you have no job to fix it? that car didnt even suck its not like when you go tear up your grannys old jaloppy just because its a piece of crap and not even worth the energy to send to the junkyard.

clearly they thought htis was a good idea, and now they are embaressed and trying to play it off like they did it on purpose. i love how that f** at the end of the video limps his car into a parking lot and half-*** tries to hit on some girl.