Ok so I have been out of the game a little while, but finally have some $$ and time to spend on the stang again. I'm tired of being another slow5oh. So lets begin.....

Budget:

1-1.5k, however I would like to stay closer to the lower end without sacrificing reliability.

Goals:

I need to remain street legal (emissions), have the motor last another 4-6 years (plan on getting a 331 when she goes), and get into the high 12's or low 13's. Currently with this setup I've bested a 14.55 @ 96. The car is only driven on the weekend(not every) and currently has 46k on her.

Current Mods (listing all changes):

C & L Inlet pipe, 70 mm TB, MSD Blaster Coil, Ford Racing 9mm plug wires, Bassani X pipe w/ cats (emissions req...), Flowmaster American Thunder Cat-back, March U/D pulleys, Ford Racing B springs, KYB Struts/Shocks, 17in wheels with 245 BFG G-Force's.


Now before I get a nitrous kit, I plan on finishing the exhaust with some MAC 1 5/8" shorties. These seem to fit my budget and from what i've searched, its a good bang for the buck. Pay day is next Wednesday and I plan on ordering then.

I plan on dyno tuning to make sure the computer department is all fine and dandy once I hook the nitrous up.

Questions:

I'm looking for probably about a 75-100 shot, from what I've read that is about all I should go with my stock block. True?

Should I go wet or dry? I've read a few articles and it seems wet is mostly for large shots of nitrous, but is there any +'s or -'s to each?

I was wanting to get a Holley kit, but it seems that their 5.0L kit is only for the '86-'91 stangs... I'm going to call the tomorrow to see if it will also work on my application but thoughts here appreciated. http://www.holley.com/05115NOS.asp

Besides the basic kit, with a 75-100 shot will I need to upgrade any other components to make it run properly. I have read that colder spark plugs are necessary(1-2 degrees?), but what about the fuel pump and injectors? Right now those fuel components are original stockers...

I'm leaning toward this setup, as a H/C/I swap is out of the question for a while, expecially since I want to swap for a 331 block in the future. Any advise on the above is welcomed and appreciated. End of wall of text.... =D

 

k im gonna try to decypher the 9 million things in this.

1) theres no guarantees your motor will last another 4-6 years first off, with or without spray. so go ahead and throw that thought out the window. when its its time to go, its gonna go. nitrous when done right is very safe, but there are no guarantees.

2) shorty headers are worthless, longtubes or bust

3) why the F*** would you spend 500$ on a dyno tune just to turn around and spend another 500$ to tune it after the nitrous? DONT waste the money tuning before you get n20. your car runs fine yes? then your computer is good theres no need to spend 500$ to "check it". your tuner will be able to diagnose anything while its on the rollers for the nitrous runs.

4) im not positive with the 5.0 but you should be able to spray 100 to the wheels just like a 4.6 (thats about a 125 flywheel shot. different companies rate their shots different. NX rates their shots to the wheels, others are flywheel)

5) go with a wet kit. much simpler and less **** you need to buy. wet kits are a tad safer IMO, and you dont need to buy injectors like you do with a dry kit.

6) you dont have to buy a "kit". just find a bottle and solenoids and stuff on ebay. its a lot cheaper. you can piece yourself together a very nice kit for cheap. window switch, WOT switch, fuel pressure cutoff, bottle heater, nitrous and fuel solenoids, bottle, lines, wideband if you so choose, then pressure guages if you choose.

7) fuel pump would be a good idea, since your pump is probably pretty old and may have lots its "peak output" by now. injectors are needed with a dry kit, but not a wet kit.

 

I understand a motor can take a turn for the worst at any moment, but what I was trying to get at was reliable power here.

Shorties are a must in AZ, gotta pass those emissions......

Also, to clarify, I am planning to get the tune after I install the nitrous, but before I spray. Sorry if that was not worded properly.

What kind of LPH on the fuel pump would be sufficient?

Otherwise, thanks for the insight.

 

ah emissions....what are those again? :-)

the wording is the same. your car should be tuned ON the nitrous...not before. if he tunes your car for NA power, they are going to have timing maxed. when your tuning for nitrous you back the timing off a couple degrees. you could run into uhh...complications...if you have them tune your car for NA power, make no changes, and spray a 125 shot.

stocker should be fine if its a 190 like the 4.6 but may as well up to a 255 to support anything else you do.

oh and forgot to mention yes, the colder plugs are needed.

 

Tuning definetely after the nitrous is installed, that is what I was planning on.

I looked at the prices on fuel pumps and it just makes sense to go with one of the 255's. Not much of a price difference there. I'll definetely look at getting the colder plugs. Also heard that the gap should be changed as well?

 

I submitted a ticket to Holley to see if the kit will work for the '95. I tried calling but got frustrated after waiting 30 minutes in the hold queue.

Anyone else that can offer some insight into some of my questions?

Thanks

 

get the 255lph walbro pump its one of the cheapest aftermarket pumps, around $90, and any extra gas goes back to the tank in our year. Also when you pull the stock pump you will find walbro stamped on it which says something about the quality..

 

What type of timing retard setup are you going to use? For every 100hp of spray you need to retard the timing 3 degrees. Jacobs makes a timing retard. You can also use a MSD retard control. The MSD 3 step works well. You wire that into your nitrous solenoids so when you engage the spray the tiiming automatically retards. That alone is worth a few horse plus you won't hurt the engine. I would also close the plugs a few thousandths so you don't blow out the spark. On motor with the plugs gapped tight you will loose minimal hp. I've ran a Top Gun 150 shot on my car since 1993 with only a couple of minor issues. Hope this helps

 

5115 dry kit will work just fine on all 5.0 motors

stock pump will work for a 100 shot but if it's original you might be asking for trouble

325 hp range.... stock everything is ok... go bigger..........then go bigger you feel me ?

a 5.0 can go 12.50's b4 upgrading anything

 

wow......... you just contradicted urself 100 times.....and did $h!t in spite of urself?

but hey if it works ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????