If someone can tell me about these mods....it would be very helpful !! My 07 gt is used for mainly a daily driver and some auto cross events, MODS are steeda lowering springs,d-spec struts@shocks, steeda lca @ adjustable uca , lower g-track brace, sub frame's, Steeda panhard bar adjustable and brace,poly ends. Would I notice anything by installing the lca repositioning brackets in the rear @ the steeda ball joints or relocation kit for the front lca. I dont see how the roll center could be that off by only lowering the car 1' in the front an 1 1/4 in the rear.

If someone has these mods or know someone that does, any help would be great

 

LCA relocation brackets (rear): yes, this is very worthwhile even for a mild drop. Run one hole down and you will see much more confident handling and better traction as well.

As for the front, I have installed the ball joints and the "front LCA relocation kit" on a buddy's car and it was a lot of work for nothing. I would not bother with either of these parts.

If you are looking for handling upgrades, there's a BIG one you missed: Rear sway bar. This will dial out the understeer the car has from the factory. The Steeda one with the billet endlinks is very good...unlike most of the other Steeda parts. Go figure.

You should also consider the BMR boxed subframe connectors. They are FAR superior to the Steedas.

 

Thanks for the help !


I will try the rear sway bar out. !!

 

If you aren't using the car for drag purposes, the relocation brackets act like a roll center adjuster. Even if the car is lowered it needs to keep that same angle of the lower control arm. So, hence the relocation brackets.

 

Roger that. If your car is lowered to the point where the lower front a-arms are parallel, or above parallel to the ground, (pointing up from the pivot point) you will have increased pos. camber as your suspension compresses, as in a turn. Positive camber in a turn is never a good thing (or anywhere else, for that matter). By getting the LCA back to a lower than parallel attitude (pointing down from the pivot point) you will increase negative camber as the suspension compresses. These characteristics are related to the location of theroll center. A quick fix with cars that are lowered, but don't have correct geometry, is to run a lot of negative camber. This way, when the suspension compresses, even though you lose some of the negative camber, you're still in the negative, or at least zero range. Unfortunately, running 1.5* neg. camber is way hard on tires, and not the right way to solve the problem. Lowering the front LCA mounting point, or installing the X5 ball joints, is.
Hope this helps.