rnail

OK, so I just finished the install and am already contemplating my next incremental improvement. I'm a little confused. I see two different rear sway bars of different sizes on the Steeda web site (not including the Competition rear bar that I'm NOT considering):

555-1065 is a kit with the Front 1 3/8" and Rear 13/16" sway bar

then there is separate components:

555-1050 Front 1 3/8" sway bar, 555-1056 Rear 7/8" sway bar

What gives? I recently read an artice from MM&FFs where they related that the FRPP sways (Eibach) still had a tendency to understear, whereas the Steeda sways attained near neutral ballance. Is this due to the use of a larger rear sway (7/8" Steeda is 22.23mm vs eibach 22mm vs 13/16" Steeda which is 20.6mm)? Which setting to put the adjustable front on to achieve this ballance, I assume the middle?? Has anyone purchased these bars that can give me some guidance?

I'm curious how Steeda set up their Q335 car front sway bar and which rear sway bar did they use for the MM&FF testing session so that I can emmulate their setup.

Any help greatly appreciated. I know this is ****, but I always plan my mods out carefully before I purchase and usually achieve success. Thanks

F1Fan

Hi rnail,

I've measured the stockS197GT front anti-roll bar which actually measures 35mm andthe Steeda front anti-roll bar whichmeasuredin at36mm. Thestock S197GT rear anti-roll barmeasures 19.5mmand the Steeda anti-roll barI installed on my car measures 21.5mm.The Steeda anti-roll bar size depends on the anti-roll bar PN# ordered. IMO the 21.5mm rear anti-roll bar isa goodchoice for many people but this barleaves significant understeer in high speed turns even with the front bar adjusted toits softest setting even on Eibach Pro-Kit sport springs that are strongly rearbiased.

My car is currently sitting on Eibach Pro Kit Sport springs which have afairly high rearhandling bias when compared with virtually any other sport spring on the market with the exception ofEibach's own Sportline spring set. I'm stilltrying tofind the time to install the Steeda Competition springs that have been sitting out in my garage for almost 6 months now. For me the understeer is a problem that will likely get worsewhen I installmy Steeda Competition springsbecause Steeda's rear spring rate is 12%-13% softer than the Eibach Pro-Kit spring rates. When Steeda developedtheirsprings and bars the increase in the front Competition spring rate was more than double the percentage increaseover the Sportrear spring rate.So the Competition springsare more likely to workbetter with thelarger 23.8mm Competition bar than withSteeda'sregular Sport spring set. It seems to me if you haveregular Steeda Sport springs, for aggressive streetandhard core track use with a driver who can handle a touch of oversteerusing the7/8" (22.2mm),rear bar will give you a nearly ideal handling balance with the front anti-roll bar set to the middle of possibly the soft setting.If you have a staggered tire setup with wider rear tires than the front tires, the competition bar whichmeasures 15/16" (23.8) will give yo back a more neutal handling balance.

As I recall you installed Steeda's regular Sport springsso the setting that should work best with Steeda's 7/8" (22.2mm), bar will probablybe the middle setting on the front bar or the softest setting if you need the car to rotate faster say for auto-X ortight canyonrunning. But the middle setting willlikely be the best all around setting for moststreet and track usedepending on the alignment specs you have the car setup with. The competition rear bar will probably be too much rear bar even with the front anti-roll bar set toits stiffest setting with regular Steeda Sport springs.

Hope this helps you figure it out. Any quesions? just post them.

Cheers!

steelcomp

F1,
Would a better alternative to offsetting the under steer be to upgrade the rear spring rate? Seems that getting too large on rear AR bar would mean some loss of traction over bumpy cornering, especially at higher speeds. At what point do you know youre front/rear spring bias is at it's optimum, and you can then start fine tuning with AR bars?