Suspension 101 question
#1
Suspension 101 question
Hey guys and gals,
I need some help!
I have been reading and researching suspension components for ages and around every thread or link I just get more and more overwhelmed. I don't have the money to trial and error, I need to pick the right parts from the right companies the first time.
In just looking for and adj panhard bar and brace I found this many companies.
Maximum motorsport
CHE
Steeda
BMR
UPR
Etc.
I have heard from others on other suspension forums that I have to be careful which company I go with and not just go by price. I was told to pay attention to materials used, diameter of tubing, bushing type, and the list goes on. Problem is I don't know which is the best for my application. My car is my DD and I plan to try to get back into road track events with the local mustang clubs and maybe an autoX course. 1/4 mile isn't my thing. I want my car's suspension to be set up for aggressive street driving that will excel on the road course and I want to keep the weight down!
I have been told if I use the car for DD that I should keep with poly type bushings. Am I correct in assuming that any part from these companies will be better/stronger than the stock parts? If so will I go wrong with any of these companies? Or does it come down to how finatical I get with having the best materials and components?
So does anyone have any first hand knowledge on these companies on your S197? I would like to learn about what I need to look for and stay away from based on my applications. Can you share your insight about adj UCA, LCA, panhard bar and brace, K member brace, strut tower brace, linear vs progressive springs, shocks and struts, camber plates, etc.
Thanks guys and gals,
I know this is a lot to ask and I need some expert advise, but I think this will be a very beneficial thread if we can make it informative.
UrS4
I need some help!
I have been reading and researching suspension components for ages and around every thread or link I just get more and more overwhelmed. I don't have the money to trial and error, I need to pick the right parts from the right companies the first time.
In just looking for and adj panhard bar and brace I found this many companies.
Maximum motorsport
CHE
Steeda
BMR
UPR
Etc.
I have heard from others on other suspension forums that I have to be careful which company I go with and not just go by price. I was told to pay attention to materials used, diameter of tubing, bushing type, and the list goes on. Problem is I don't know which is the best for my application. My car is my DD and I plan to try to get back into road track events with the local mustang clubs and maybe an autoX course. 1/4 mile isn't my thing. I want my car's suspension to be set up for aggressive street driving that will excel on the road course and I want to keep the weight down!
I have been told if I use the car for DD that I should keep with poly type bushings. Am I correct in assuming that any part from these companies will be better/stronger than the stock parts? If so will I go wrong with any of these companies? Or does it come down to how finatical I get with having the best materials and components?
So does anyone have any first hand knowledge on these companies on your S197? I would like to learn about what I need to look for and stay away from based on my applications. Can you share your insight about adj UCA, LCA, panhard bar and brace, K member brace, strut tower brace, linear vs progressive springs, shocks and struts, camber plates, etc.
Thanks guys and gals,
I know this is a lot to ask and I need some expert advise, but I think this will be a very beneficial thread if we can make it informative.
UrS4
#2
RE: Suspension 101 question
Most of guys here dont like to make use of these cars for anything other then racing quater mile, so you are going to find it hard to get a lot of input here.
First have you ever auto-X'd or tracked the car yet? If you havent, I would try it first and learn how to drive the car. These cars are very good right from the factory and do not need much to be a very competitive auto-X car or have fun at an open track day. Having said that, the best thing for you to do would be to buy a second set of rims and tires because that is what you are going to tear up first, especially at a track day not as bad auto-x'ing. I ran my first auto-x season on my stock rims and tires. Dont mess with suspension parts unless you are going to only track the car, as with different upgrades made to the car, for auto-x, you will get classed against better prepared cars and you just wont be competitive at all.
For tracking the car, I would stick with poly bushings if you are keeping the car as a daily driver. Heim joins and start to wear out and get noisey, they really arent intended for the regular abuse of dialy driving. That would be my biggest suggestion for you, after that I am have always been a BMR fan. I have never heard anything bad about there stuff. What this car needs the most is dampers. I am a big fan of Koni dampers, they are rebuildable and have a lifetime warranty. Springs, I think, just end up being put in to gain a lower ride height and a better look for the car, by a lot of the guys here. No need for a front sway bar or strut brace. But all that is just a start, you can go all the way up to putting a Watts Lync into the car. Like you said it can get overwhelming.
I am an auto-X guy at heart, so I might be a little slighted towards that. I hope to track my car next season and we will see what parts I will want to throw into that car after that. Rodeoflyer has a lot of good input for track stuff, along with a hand full of other guys, F1Fan to name another. The best thing is to see and hear from guys first hand, you have to take all that you are reading here toungue to cheek.
I hope I didnt confuse you anymore but ask away there are guys here to help.
First have you ever auto-X'd or tracked the car yet? If you havent, I would try it first and learn how to drive the car. These cars are very good right from the factory and do not need much to be a very competitive auto-X car or have fun at an open track day. Having said that, the best thing for you to do would be to buy a second set of rims and tires because that is what you are going to tear up first, especially at a track day not as bad auto-x'ing. I ran my first auto-x season on my stock rims and tires. Dont mess with suspension parts unless you are going to only track the car, as with different upgrades made to the car, for auto-x, you will get classed against better prepared cars and you just wont be competitive at all.
For tracking the car, I would stick with poly bushings if you are keeping the car as a daily driver. Heim joins and start to wear out and get noisey, they really arent intended for the regular abuse of dialy driving. That would be my biggest suggestion for you, after that I am have always been a BMR fan. I have never heard anything bad about there stuff. What this car needs the most is dampers. I am a big fan of Koni dampers, they are rebuildable and have a lifetime warranty. Springs, I think, just end up being put in to gain a lower ride height and a better look for the car, by a lot of the guys here. No need for a front sway bar or strut brace. But all that is just a start, you can go all the way up to putting a Watts Lync into the car. Like you said it can get overwhelming.
I am an auto-X guy at heart, so I might be a little slighted towards that. I hope to track my car next season and we will see what parts I will want to throw into that car after that. Rodeoflyer has a lot of good input for track stuff, along with a hand full of other guys, F1Fan to name another. The best thing is to see and hear from guys first hand, you have to take all that you are reading here toungue to cheek.
I hope I didnt confuse you anymore but ask away there are guys here to help.
#3
RE: Suspension 101 question
Do you care about nvh? Pick parts based on what kind of affect they will have on driving, not on who they are made by. I would recommend steeda stuff for road racing. BMR is good stuff but is geared more towards drag.
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs-I like them.
MM Caster Camber Plates-added some more nvh
Steeda Street Panhard Bar-perfect I can adjust my axle center on my own to get it in the right place. I adjust it, to hold me over, until I feel like going to the alignment shop.
Steeda Heavy Duty Panhard Bar Brace-once you pull out the stock brace you won't have any second thoughts
Complete Bilstein Front & Rear Strut/Shock- I do alot of highway driving so I got these for the excellent ride quality. I haven't broken them in yet so don't know how much they affect the handling.
Prothane Motor Mounts- I will be honest, I am new to stick shift. I got these to make my shifts easier. They help alot.
Thats what I have for now. I am 100% certain I will be getting more.
Eibach Pro-Kit Lowering Springs-I like them.
MM Caster Camber Plates-added some more nvh
Steeda Street Panhard Bar-perfect I can adjust my axle center on my own to get it in the right place. I adjust it, to hold me over, until I feel like going to the alignment shop.
Steeda Heavy Duty Panhard Bar Brace-once you pull out the stock brace you won't have any second thoughts
Complete Bilstein Front & Rear Strut/Shock- I do alot of highway driving so I got these for the excellent ride quality. I haven't broken them in yet so don't know how much they affect the handling.
Prothane Motor Mounts- I will be honest, I am new to stick shift. I got these to make my shifts easier. They help alot.
Thats what I have for now. I am 100% certain I will be getting more.
#4
RE: Suspension 101 question
ORIGINAL: jayel579
Most of guys here dont like to make use of these cars for anything other then racing quater mile, so you are going to find it hard to get a lot of input here.
First have you ever auto-X'd or tracked the car yet? If you havent, I would try it first and learn how to drive the car. These cars are very good right from the factory and do not need much to be a very competitive auto-X car or have fun at an open track day. Having said that, the best thing for you to do would be to buy a second set of rims and tires because that is what you are going to tear up first, especially at a track day not as bad auto-x'ing. I ran my first auto-x season on my stock rims and tires. Dont mess with suspension parts unless you are going to only track the car, as with different upgrades made to the car, for auto-x, you will get classed against better prepared cars and you just wont be competitive at all.
For tracking the car, I would stick with poly bushings if you are keeping the car as a daily driver. Heim joins and start to wear out and get noisey, they really arent intended for the regular abuse of dialy driving. That would be my biggest suggestion for you, after that I am have always been a BMR fan. I have never heard anything bad about there stuff. What this car needs the most is dampers. I am a big fan of Koni dampers, they are rebuildable and have a lifetime warranty. Springs, I think, just end up being put in to gain a lower ride height and a better look for the car, by a lot of the guys here. No need for a front sway bar or strut brace. But all that is just a start, you can go all the way up to putting a Watts Lync into the car. Like you said it can get overwhelming.
I am an auto-X guy at heart, so I might be a little slighted towards that. I hope to track my car next season and we will see what parts I will want to throw into that car after that. Rodeoflyer has a lot of good input for track stuff, along with a hand full of other guys, F1Fan to name another. The best thing is to see and hear from guys first hand, you have to take all that you are reading here toungue to cheek.
I hope I didnt confuse you anymore but ask away there are guys here to help.
Most of guys here dont like to make use of these cars for anything other then racing quater mile, so you are going to find it hard to get a lot of input here.
First have you ever auto-X'd or tracked the car yet? If you havent, I would try it first and learn how to drive the car. These cars are very good right from the factory and do not need much to be a very competitive auto-X car or have fun at an open track day. Having said that, the best thing for you to do would be to buy a second set of rims and tires because that is what you are going to tear up first, especially at a track day not as bad auto-x'ing. I ran my first auto-x season on my stock rims and tires. Dont mess with suspension parts unless you are going to only track the car, as with different upgrades made to the car, for auto-x, you will get classed against better prepared cars and you just wont be competitive at all.
For tracking the car, I would stick with poly bushings if you are keeping the car as a daily driver. Heim joins and start to wear out and get noisey, they really arent intended for the regular abuse of dialy driving. That would be my biggest suggestion for you, after that I am have always been a BMR fan. I have never heard anything bad about there stuff. What this car needs the most is dampers. I am a big fan of Koni dampers, they are rebuildable and have a lifetime warranty. Springs, I think, just end up being put in to gain a lower ride height and a better look for the car, by a lot of the guys here. No need for a front sway bar or strut brace. But all that is just a start, you can go all the way up to putting a Watts Lync into the car. Like you said it can get overwhelming.
I am an auto-X guy at heart, so I might be a little slighted towards that. I hope to track my car next season and we will see what parts I will want to throw into that car after that. Rodeoflyer has a lot of good input for track stuff, along with a hand full of other guys, F1Fan to name another. The best thing is to see and hear from guys first hand, you have to take all that you are reading here toungue to cheek.
I hope I didnt confuse you anymore but ask away there are guys here to help.
I am thinking that I should stay with linear rate springs and just up the spring rates and add Tokico D specs. From F1Fan, it looks like the Steeda Comp springs are the stiffest linear springs under their street category.
My main concern is which brand of UCA, LCA, adj Panhard bar, panhard brace, K member brace, strut brace, caster camber plates, etc. to go with?
I have heard to stay away from UPR. MM is good, as well as BMR, Steeda, CHE, and the list continues.
For the next couple of years the car will only see 1-3 road course events so I agree poly bushings are a must. I don't mind adding a little NVH because I want to get rid of the slop in the rear end. I notice it most in turns so I don't know enough about suspensions to know if that is from the bushings in the LCA, the panhard bar or brace or the anti-roll bar.
How different would you set up a car for autoX vs road course events? I thought they would be set up similar.
#5
RE: Suspension 101 question
ORIGINAL: UrS4
I tracked my Audi S4 about 6 times between Mid America Motorplex, St Cloud DOT training center, Brainerd International Raceway, etc. I tracked my GT at BIR with only a CAI and tune and had no trouble leaving the V8 S4 behind. I run solo so I'm not a beginner. The GT held up well except for the brakes, they sucked. I have since upgraded the brakes and will be adding the cooling duct kit prior to my next event. Lightweight rims and dedicated tires are also a must have.
I am thinking that I should stay with linear rate springs and just up the spring rates and add Tokico D specs. From F1Fan, it looks like the Steeda Comp springs are the stiffest linear springs under their street category.
My main concern is which brand of UCA, LCA, adj Panhard bar, panhard brace, K member brace, strut brace, caster camber plates, etc. to go with?
I have heard to stay away from UPR. MM is good, as well as BMR, Steeda, CHE, and the list continues.
For the next couple of years the car will only see 1-3 road course events so I agree poly bushings are a must. I don't mind adding a little NVH because I want to get rid of the slop in the rear end. I notice it most in turns so I don't know enough about suspensions to know if that is from the bushings in the LCA, the panhard bar or brace or the anti-roll bar.
How different would you set up a car for autoX vs road course events? I thought they would be set up similar.
ORIGINAL: jayel579
Most of guys here dont like to make use of these cars for anything other then racing quater mile, so you are going to find it hard to get a lot of input here.
First have you ever auto-X'd or tracked the car yet? If you havent, I would try it first and learn how to drive the car. These cars are very good right from the factory and do not need much to be a very competitive auto-X car or have fun at an open track day. Having said that, the best thing for you to do would be to buy a second set of rims and tires because that is what you are going to tear up first, especially at a track day not as bad auto-x'ing. I ran my first auto-x season on my stock rims and tires. Dont mess with suspension parts unless you are going to only track the car, as with different upgrades made to the car, for auto-x, you will get classed against better prepared cars and you just wont be competitive at all.
For tracking the car, I would stick with poly bushings if you are keeping the car as a daily driver. Heim joins and start to wear out and get noisey, they really arent intended for the regular abuse of dialy driving. That would be my biggest suggestion for you, after that I am have always been a BMR fan. I have never heard anything bad about there stuff. What this car needs the most is dampers. I am a big fan of Koni dampers, they are rebuildable and have a lifetime warranty. Springs, I think, just end up being put in to gain a lower ride height and a better look for the car, by a lot of the guys here. No need for a front sway bar or strut brace. But all that is just a start, you can go all the way up to putting a Watts Lync into the car. Like you said it can get overwhelming.
I am an auto-X guy at heart, so I might be a little slighted towards that. I hope to track my car next season and we will see what parts I will want to throw into that car after that. Rodeoflyer has a lot of good input for track stuff, along with a hand full of other guys, F1Fan to name another. The best thing is to see and hear from guys first hand, you have to take all that you are reading here toungue to cheek.
I hope I didnt confuse you anymore but ask away there are guys here to help.
Most of guys here dont like to make use of these cars for anything other then racing quater mile, so you are going to find it hard to get a lot of input here.
First have you ever auto-X'd or tracked the car yet? If you havent, I would try it first and learn how to drive the car. These cars are very good right from the factory and do not need much to be a very competitive auto-X car or have fun at an open track day. Having said that, the best thing for you to do would be to buy a second set of rims and tires because that is what you are going to tear up first, especially at a track day not as bad auto-x'ing. I ran my first auto-x season on my stock rims and tires. Dont mess with suspension parts unless you are going to only track the car, as with different upgrades made to the car, for auto-x, you will get classed against better prepared cars and you just wont be competitive at all.
For tracking the car, I would stick with poly bushings if you are keeping the car as a daily driver. Heim joins and start to wear out and get noisey, they really arent intended for the regular abuse of dialy driving. That would be my biggest suggestion for you, after that I am have always been a BMR fan. I have never heard anything bad about there stuff. What this car needs the most is dampers. I am a big fan of Koni dampers, they are rebuildable and have a lifetime warranty. Springs, I think, just end up being put in to gain a lower ride height and a better look for the car, by a lot of the guys here. No need for a front sway bar or strut brace. But all that is just a start, you can go all the way up to putting a Watts Lync into the car. Like you said it can get overwhelming.
I am an auto-X guy at heart, so I might be a little slighted towards that. I hope to track my car next season and we will see what parts I will want to throw into that car after that. Rodeoflyer has a lot of good input for track stuff, along with a hand full of other guys, F1Fan to name another. The best thing is to see and hear from guys first hand, you have to take all that you are reading here toungue to cheek.
I hope I didnt confuse you anymore but ask away there are guys here to help.
I am thinking that I should stay with linear rate springs and just up the spring rates and add Tokico D specs. From F1Fan, it looks like the Steeda Comp springs are the stiffest linear springs under their street category.
My main concern is which brand of UCA, LCA, adj Panhard bar, panhard brace, K member brace, strut brace, caster camber plates, etc. to go with?
I have heard to stay away from UPR. MM is good, as well as BMR, Steeda, CHE, and the list continues.
For the next couple of years the car will only see 1-3 road course events so I agree poly bushings are a must. I don't mind adding a little NVH because I want to get rid of the slop in the rear end. I notice it most in turns so I don't know enough about suspensions to know if that is from the bushings in the LCA, the panhard bar or brace or the anti-roll bar.
How different would you set up a car for autoX vs road course events? I thought they would be set up similar.
Go to the top of the suspension page and read pages 11,12,13, on lowering your 05/06 gt F1 fan wrote a seven part essay on suspension parts!
#6
RE: Suspension 101 question
ORIGINAL: UrS4
How different would you set up a car for autoX vs road course events? I thought they would be set up similar.
How different would you set up a car for autoX vs road course events? I thought they would be set up similar.
Depending on what class you run in dictates how many upgrades you can do to the car. If you run your car in a stock class category the only basic upgrades you can have on the car is a front sway bar, cat-back exhuast, and dampers. You are allowed any DOT tires on your stock size rim. Very inexpensive class to run your car in. Mustang GTs are classed in F-stock, which at a national level won again this year. Classing can go all the way up to a Street Modified class where the cars are basically tube chasised race cars.
I guess the only real big difference between an auto-X setup and a track setup would be the brakes. And that is just simply upgrading your pads. You will not burn up your brakes on an auto-X course like you can at a track day.
#7
RE: Suspension 101 question
ORIGINAL: sd07gt
Hi there,
Go to the top of the suspension page and read pages 11,12,13, on lowering your 05/06 gt F1 fan wrote a seven part essay on suspension parts!
ORIGINAL: UrS4
I tracked my Audi S4 about 6 times between Mid America Motorplex, St Cloud DOT training center, Brainerd International Raceway, etc. I tracked my GT at BIR with only a CAI and tune and had no trouble leaving the V8 S4 behind. I run solo so I'm not a beginner. The GT held up well except for the brakes, they sucked. I have since upgraded the brakes and will be adding the cooling duct kit prior to my next event. Lightweight rims and dedicated tires are also a must have.
I am thinking that I should stay with linear rate springs and just up the spring rates and add Tokico D specs. From F1Fan, it looks like the Steeda Comp springs are the stiffest linear springs under their street category.
My main concern is which brand of UCA, LCA, adj Panhard bar, panhard brace, K member brace, strut brace, caster camber plates, etc. to go with?
I have heard to stay away from UPR. MM is good, as well as BMR, Steeda, CHE, and the list continues.
For the next couple of years the car will only see 1-3 road course events so I agree poly bushings are a must. I don't mind adding a little NVH because I want to get rid of the slop in the rear end. I notice it most in turns so I don't know enough about suspensions to know if that is from the bushings in the LCA, the panhard bar or brace or the anti-roll bar.
How different would you set up a car for autoX vs road course events? I thought they would be set up similar.
ORIGINAL: jayel579
Most of guys here dont like to make use of these cars for anything other then racing quater mile, so you are going to find it hard to get a lot of input here.
First have you ever auto-X'd or tracked the car yet? If you havent, I would try it first and learn how to drive the car. These cars are very good right from the factory and do not need much to be a very competitive auto-X car or have fun at an open track day. Having said that, the best thing for you to do would be to buy a second set of rims and tires because that is what you are going to tear up first, especially at a track day not as bad auto-x'ing. I ran my first auto-x season on my stock rims and tires. Dont mess with suspension parts unless you are going to only track the car, as with different upgrades made to the car, for auto-x, you will get classed against better prepared cars and you just wont be competitive at all.
For tracking the car, I would stick with poly bushings if you are keeping the car as a daily driver. Heim joins and start to wear out and get noisey, they really arent intended for the regular abuse of dialy driving. That would be my biggest suggestion for you, after that I am have always been a BMR fan. I have never heard anything bad about there stuff. What this car needs the most is dampers. I am a big fan of Koni dampers, they are rebuildable and have a lifetime warranty. Springs, I think, just end up being put in to gain a lower ride height and a better look for the car, by a lot of the guys here. No need for a front sway bar or strut brace. But all that is just a start, you can go all the way up to putting a Watts Lync into the car. Like you said it can get overwhelming.
I am an auto-X guy at heart, so I might be a little slighted towards that. I hope to track my car next season and we will see what parts I will want to throw into that car after that. Rodeoflyer has a lot of good input for track stuff, along with a hand full of other guys, F1Fan to name another. The best thing is to see and hear from guys first hand, you have to take all that you are reading here toungue to cheek.
I hope I didnt confuse you anymore but ask away there are guys here to help.
Most of guys here dont like to make use of these cars for anything other then racing quater mile, so you are going to find it hard to get a lot of input here.
First have you ever auto-X'd or tracked the car yet? If you havent, I would try it first and learn how to drive the car. These cars are very good right from the factory and do not need much to be a very competitive auto-X car or have fun at an open track day. Having said that, the best thing for you to do would be to buy a second set of rims and tires because that is what you are going to tear up first, especially at a track day not as bad auto-x'ing. I ran my first auto-x season on my stock rims and tires. Dont mess with suspension parts unless you are going to only track the car, as with different upgrades made to the car, for auto-x, you will get classed against better prepared cars and you just wont be competitive at all.
For tracking the car, I would stick with poly bushings if you are keeping the car as a daily driver. Heim joins and start to wear out and get noisey, they really arent intended for the regular abuse of dialy driving. That would be my biggest suggestion for you, after that I am have always been a BMR fan. I have never heard anything bad about there stuff. What this car needs the most is dampers. I am a big fan of Koni dampers, they are rebuildable and have a lifetime warranty. Springs, I think, just end up being put in to gain a lower ride height and a better look for the car, by a lot of the guys here. No need for a front sway bar or strut brace. But all that is just a start, you can go all the way up to putting a Watts Lync into the car. Like you said it can get overwhelming.
I am an auto-X guy at heart, so I might be a little slighted towards that. I hope to track my car next season and we will see what parts I will want to throw into that car after that. Rodeoflyer has a lot of good input for track stuff, along with a hand full of other guys, F1Fan to name another. The best thing is to see and hear from guys first hand, you have to take all that you are reading here toungue to cheek.
I hope I didnt confuse you anymore but ask away there are guys here to help.
I am thinking that I should stay with linear rate springs and just up the spring rates and add Tokico D specs. From F1Fan, it looks like the Steeda Comp springs are the stiffest linear springs under their street category.
My main concern is which brand of UCA, LCA, adj Panhard bar, panhard brace, K member brace, strut brace, caster camber plates, etc. to go with?
I have heard to stay away from UPR. MM is good, as well as BMR, Steeda, CHE, and the list continues.
For the next couple of years the car will only see 1-3 road course events so I agree poly bushings are a must. I don't mind adding a little NVH because I want to get rid of the slop in the rear end. I notice it most in turns so I don't know enough about suspensions to know if that is from the bushings in the LCA, the panhard bar or brace or the anti-roll bar.
How different would you set up a car for autoX vs road course events? I thought they would be set up similar.
Go to the top of the suspension page and read pages 11,12,13, on lowering your 05/06 gt F1 fan wrote a seven part essay on suspension parts!
#9
RE: Suspension 101 question
ORIGINAL: alloutt
you also need to look into witch ones require more maintance than others...
you also need to look into witch ones require more maintance than others...
Last question . . .
What does the GT500 LCA compare to from steeda, BMR, MM, CHE, etc. Because they are only 100 bucks, will the cheapest BMR LCA or steeda LCA be better or just cost more?