No direct experience with either, but I'm pretty sure it comes down to how accurately you as an individual can jig up for the mod vs production tolerances on the OE bracketing fabrication and assembly. A strictly minor consideration might be unsprung mass.

Generally, bolt-on brackets make the assumption that every set of OE brackets is perfect in shape, location, and angular orientation. This may be approximately true for most cars, but is certainly not so for all. As the installer, you're also concerned with how accurately the relo brackets themselves were made. EVERYTHING man-made has tolerances.

Bolt-ons

Weld-ons allow you to correct for OE tolerance stack-up, the "cost" being that you have to be able to more accurately jig things into the proper positions. I'm pretty sure that any competent fabricator could work up a means of doing this without an alignment rack, but if I were writing up the instruction sheet I wouldn't want people who overestimate their abilities screwing it up (and later blaming either Steeda or the instructions).

Weld-ons

IMO, it's probably a good idea to combine weld-ons with the use of adjustable LCAs. That way you can compensate for any small errors even after the welding is complete and everything has cooled. I know of one F-body enthusiast who had to do just that, and the fraction of an inch difference in LCA lengths is not as critical as having an axle that's not perpendicular to the car centerline.


Norm

 

Sleeper_08 - when you do this bushing mod, add some marine grease or specific poly lubeinside the inner sleeves and 'paint' the bolt bodies with a little of the stuff as well. This will protect the insides of the sleeves and the bolts themselves against corrosion a little better.

DO NOT use any sort of petroleum-based grease. Not good for the poly.


Norm

 

Norm

Thanks for the tips.

My car should be deliveredin late January and then the wheels/tires/brake/suspension upgrades will be done once the weather is decent enough.