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UCA, and LCA??

Old 02-16-2008, 03:37 PM
  #11  
docwine
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Default RE: UCA, and LCA??

ORIGINAL: PiggySmallz

from experience, I can tell you that the upper control arm is a real pain to get to. You need to pull the back seats up to access a bolt that holds in the mount and you also need to lower the gas tanks so you can get that bracket out. Some GT's you need a 13mm socket to remove the bolt, but there was a recall apparently so newer ones (I know my 07 had one) require a torx 50. I had a tough time with the gas tanks and could not get them low enough to pull the mount out. The more I loosened the bolts the tighter they got. I even put jacks underneath each side so they wouldn't just fall out. I tried a crobar, i tried everything to get that bracket out but I got nothing. Then i tried tightening it and jus removing the UCA from the mounting bracket, but the frame comes down just enough to block me from removing the bolt in the back. I'll give it another shot this weekend but if I had known I'd run into this many problems, I would have just gotten adjustable lower control arms instead of an adjustable upper control arm.
I know the feeling, that bracket was very hard to remove, Here is what I did. I placed two jacks with wood blocks under the gas tank and lowered it about 5 inches. The reason you can't get the bracket out without doing that is because it has a sleeve that the upper bolt goes into. That sleeve sticks up through the body.

To hogpwr, the second best mod I've done so far. Better control and no hop what so ever.
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Old 02-16-2008, 07:33 PM
  #12  
sweetlou69
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Default RE: UCA, and LCA??

so the UCA is a real PITA to install i take it? what about the LCAS. how long does that usually take and what good do the relocation brackets do?
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Old 02-16-2008, 10:32 PM
  #13  
Black GT
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Default RE: UCA, and LCA??

ORIGINAL: sweetlou69

so the UCA is a real PITA to install i take it? what about the LCAS. how long does that usually take and what good do the relocation brackets do?
LCA's are easy. You should do them one at a time, and they only have two bolts each. The other thing to mention is that you need to remove the parking brake cables on each side to pull them out from between the stock LCA bracket. This isn't difficult either, you simply unclip them.

Relocation brackets change the angle. They aren't needed if you keep the car at stock height, but if you lower you should definitely get them.
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Old 02-17-2008, 12:22 PM
  #14  
sweetlou69
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Default RE: UCA, and LCA??

nice good to know. Maybe for starters ill just do the LCAS and relocation brackets. Not crazy mechanically inclined so the UCA seems kindarough. If i go just LCAS should i go adjustables or are non adj LCAS ok?
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Old 02-17-2008, 02:17 PM
  #15  
Simon1
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Default RE: UCA, and LCA??

ORIGINAL: sweetlou69

nice good to know. Maybe for starters ill just do the LCAS and relocation brackets. Not crazy mechanically inclined so the UCA seems kindarough. If i go just LCAS should i go adjustables or are non adj LCAS ok?
It depends if you are ever going to lower your car. If you think you may lower your car than get the adjustable version. If no than get the solid LCAs.

Even on a stock height car the relocate brackets can help 60' times. By increasing the angle of the LCA you force the energy down through the LCA into the axle and through the tire, putting more force on the tire. These are also called "anti squat" brackets.

For those who lower their car, they change the angle of the LCA to the point that angles down from the back of the car to the front. When launching, the force causes the tire to go up into the wheel well, taking pressure off of the tire which is bad when trying to get max traction. The relocate brackets change the angle to "correct" the geometry for proper launch angle for the LCAs. They are also adjustable for 3 different settings if they are welded into place instead of just bolted in.
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Old 02-17-2008, 04:12 PM
  #16  
sweetlou69
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Default RE: UCA, and LCA??

yes i will be lowering the car in the spring. prob an inch or so. So ill go with adj LCAS and the relocation brackets then. thanks!
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Old 02-17-2008, 06:59 PM
  #17  
Norm Peterson
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Default RE: UCA, and LCA??

It's apt to end up with the relo brackets requiring the LCAs to be adjustableinstead of thinking it's the other way around. Holes don't always get drilled in the right places, the brackets themselves may not all be precisely the same shape, there is tolerance on the OE LCA bracket that you attach them to, and the installation may end up being a little 'off'.


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Old 02-17-2008, 08:44 PM
  #18  
cheftjpeck
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Default RE: UCA, and LCA??

sorry 2 hijack...however I am installing roush rears only... bought spohn poly/sphere combo adj. lca...do I still need or should I get relocation bracket...roush rears only lower about an inch...leaving the front alone [stock] just want to even out ride height and help w wheel hop / traction..advice...
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Old 02-18-2008, 10:00 AM
  #19  
Norm Peterson
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Default RE: UCA, and LCA??

First, understand that "lowering estimates" are just that - estimates. It's at least possible that you may find the nose ends up a little high.

Anyway, the poly & spherical ended LCAs will reduce the wheel hop, but may not completely eliminate it. Also doing the UCA modwith stiffer bushings or spherical(s) there will help in at least some of the more stubborn cases.

You're going to have traction issues on the street anyway, but relo brackets can gain you quite a bit of help. Just dropping the LCA axle side pivot 1" can double the anti-squat percentage in a 3-link/PHB suspension (from 40-ish% to 80 or so), though the amount you get with S197-specific link lengths, pivot elevations,and final LCA angles might vary a bit from the model I used to get those particular numbers. I'm not sure what will happen to your axle roll steer, other than to say that the car will either understeer less than OE or oversteer slightly.


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