crazystylin

What are the upper/lowercontrol arms good for? What type of application?

My application is DD, soon to be s/c'd w/ 430rhp, occasional trips (3-4x/yr) to both road & 1/4 mi. tracks.

I have someone who will trade me a Steeda UCA (Adjustable Street Upper Control Arm 3rd Link, p/n 555-4105) or Steeda LCA's (Billet Rear Control Arms p/n 555-4405 - not adjustable???) for my BMR Strut Tower Brace.

Is this a good trade?

My Strut tower for either an Adj. UCA or LCAs?

Please advise quick!

itchy5

My vote is yes for either. If you are already lowered, your LCA's are probably sloping the wrong direction (Mounting point on the chassis is lower than the mounting point on the axle) This is bad for handling and also makes the car squat on acceleration. So you will need some LCA relocation brackets.

The weld in kind are nice, but a real PITA. I would have paid someone to put them in for me, had I realized how difficult it is to make sure the rear axle is square before welding.We made many checks with the tape measure and used straps to hold things in place, but wewere still off by 0.15 degrees.Howeve, well within the ford spec of 3.0 degrees, but not perfect. For all I know, it might have been off from the factory. But, I was in too much of a hurry and didn't check before removing things.

The UCA has a poly bushing, which is more firm than the stock rubber bushing. That piece should prevent wheel hop, and also allow you to set your pinion angle

crazystylin

Shouldn't I wait and find/purchase adjustable lower controls arms? I am thinking the adj. UCA is not as necessary for my application.

Sleeper_08

There are a lot of threads here talking about the Steeda UCA. Do a search for F1Fan's comment.

After installing mine (absolute total PITA to install) I realize all of the effort was worth it as the combination of the UCA 555-4109 and poly/poly LCAs and weld in LCA relocation brackets has eliminated axle hop even with my SC.

Sleeper_08

We did up so many bolts over two days I am not sure but think we got that one to 129 ft lb but it was not easy. We used a new bolt and flag nut and blue loctite.

F1Fan

Hi Sleeper_08,

I love a satisfied customer! LOL! Yes a total PITA to installbut as you have found an effective piece of fabrication no? Gotta love Steeda's design, engineering and fabrication even if the price initially appearsto be a bit higher than the other lesser parts out there.

Cheers!

crazystylin

OK, so I think that I am going to trade my BMR strut tower brace bar and $170 for Steeda LCA's and a Steeda adj. UCA.

However, I am intimidated by hearing all the PITA comments re: installing the UCA. Because I am novice, maybe I will let a pro do that part. But I will at least give it a shot.

itchy5

Sleeper,

I have a new flag bolt and extra nylock nut, next week when I get back under the car to check all the torques and double check the pinion angle and rear axle centering, I'll try to install it and do a better job holding the flag nut.

crazystylin

In what order should the install be done?

1. Remove sway bar, remove PH Bar, remove rear shocks
2. Install UCA
3. Install LCAs
4. Install Shocks
5. Install PH Bar
6. Install Sway bar

Sound about right? Start with hardest install first?

crazystylin

so far so good.

PH Bar - OEM removed, new one installed. Easy as apple pie.
Sway Bar - OEM removed. Will install new bar last. Very easy.
Rear shocks are giving me a hard time as they won't unbolt from the top - when I am torqueing to loosen the whole assembly rotates. So I will try a to use two tools to loosen it.

Up next:
1. Get top bolts to rear shocks off, and install Tokico shocks
2. Remove & Install Steeda LCAs
3. Remove & Install UCA
4. Install Sway
5. adjust PHbar & UCA.
6. Remove front struts, install Tokico fronts.
7. Drive it in the mountains!