mortman

what can i do to tighten up the front and rear suspention, OEM blows

Cal26Stang

lower it with a pro-kit and get tokico D-specs

Vertigo

LCA, adj. UCA, adj panhard bar, RSB, upgrade the wheels and tires just to name a few

Shard Phoenix

How much money do you want to spend and how stiff do you want it to be, how much noise will you put up with?

Norm Peterson

Can you be more specific. You want help fixing what you see as being a problem, but haven't described the problem. What does it do that you don't like, ordoesn't do that you wish it did? For what kind(s) of driving, and how picky are you and your mostfrequent passengers about things like ride confort and NVH? "OEM blows" doesn't give anybody anything to go on, and blindly throwing parts at it and maybe ending up with something you don't like much better doesn't sound like much of a plan.

I just finished reading an article in "Brake and Front End", (a repair industry magazine) concerning an individual who had a shop install a whole slew of performance suspension parts - and promptly put the car into the wall at a track day. That it wasn't a Mustang doesn't really matter. It's that there is no way to tell how well the parts were chosen, but there is reason to believe that the car was way more capable than the driver before the mods were made. But not capable enough to cover for driver error afterward.


Norm

mortman

Sorry I should have known better….
What I cant stand is you can feel every bump in the road on every wheel, I would not mind it so much if the whole car felt it but each wheel is ridicules.
Rear-end seams way loose, get it to the throttle in a corner and she want to come around.
Lastly at high speeds (80 on the high way), hitting a bump in the road she feels like she wants to take off, feels like one or both rear wheels come off the ground

cobra443

Well part of that problem is from our cars having a "live axel" with a panhard bar no really any way around that(without shelling out some major cash). Other than that your best bet is to get some d-specs and adjust them to whatever you feel is most comfortable. Also you should go ahead and throw some lca's which your down there. Wouldnt reccomend lowering if you already think the ride is a little harsh.

Norm Peterson

More than anything else, shocks and struts. Adjustables, either D-Specs or Konis, will give you a better chance of finding the ride/handling compromise that best suits you, individually.

LCAs *might* help, by a rather less amount. Do the shocks/struts first and see if that's enough to quiet the ride down.

And what you're feeling at speed might actually be happening. At the very least, a rear wheel that hits a bump is going to become very lightly loaded over certain kinds of bumps. In a turn, that means "loose".

But even in smooth pavement turns the rear ends of these cars seem to be a little "livelier" than the stick axle/front engine/RWD cars that I remember (you can just see the left taillight of my previous FE/RWD car in my avatar pic). There *may* be more aggressive tuning of the Trac-lock - I can hear the inside left sliding slightly when I'm into the throttle in only moderately tight left turns. That's just something for which you need to develop a sensitive foot, as you can't reliably "drive through" that sort of RWD vehicle behavior.


Norm