Which panhard rod?
Trying to decide between these
J&M Ti-aluminum on car adjustable rod ended $135
J&M Chrome moly on car adj poly ended $155
Steeda Adj poly ended $159
UMI Chrome moly on car adj rod ended $179
Want the adj aspect but can't decide on if rod ends are needed, type of tube material, brand.
Thanks
J&M Ti-aluminum on car adjustable rod ended $135
J&M Chrome moly on car adj poly ended $155
Steeda Adj poly ended $159
UMI Chrome moly on car adj rod ended $179
Want the adj aspect but can't decide on if rod ends are needed, type of tube material, brand.
Thanks
Don't forget that UMI makes a number of PHB's. Not just the big Chrome-moly DA (rod-ended) version @ $179. There is the same thing in mild steel for $149.
There is the on-car adjustable one that's mild steel and uses one rod-end, one poly bushing. It's the easiest to adjust, period. Is a hybrid that offers a bit better lateral location than a double poly bushed PHB, but less potential rod-end noise than one with double rod-ends. That one is $139.
There is also a standard adjustable one for $109.
http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=79&ModelID=5
PHB's aren't complicated. In the end it comes down to service of the company you buy from, can you trust the welding? Is the coating any good? In the end none of them will break, but I will not use an aluminum PHB personally. It's far too long a run and there is too much force applied. It's either mild steel or CM for me. I run UMI's PHB on my car, it's proven, and I've torture tested on in an accident and the welds were perfect after a huge hit. The bar was bent... but so was the axle, the housing, the car, etc.
There is the on-car adjustable one that's mild steel and uses one rod-end, one poly bushing. It's the easiest to adjust, period. Is a hybrid that offers a bit better lateral location than a double poly bushed PHB, but less potential rod-end noise than one with double rod-ends. That one is $139.
There is also a standard adjustable one for $109.
http://www.stranoparts.com/searchbym...D=79&ModelID=5
PHB's aren't complicated. In the end it comes down to service of the company you buy from, can you trust the welding? Is the coating any good? In the end none of them will break, but I will not use an aluminum PHB personally. It's far too long a run and there is too much force applied. It's either mild steel or CM for me. I run UMI's PHB on my car, it's proven, and I've torture tested on in an accident and the welds were perfect after a huge hit. The bar was bent... but so was the axle, the housing, the car, etc.
I purchased this one a few weeks back. Very nice & great quality. Besides allowing me to align the car properly, I honestly couldn't feel a difference.
In the particular case of the PHB here, there is no weight savings because UMI opted not to use thinner walled tubing here (which is where the CM saves, it's not any lighter otherwise). But it is stronger and has less deflection over the length of the bar.
That decision could be partially due to me because I feel lateral location is key and mentioned it at various times. It's alos why I won't use Aluminum for a PHB.


