lowering springs??
09-18-2008, 11:56 PM
#1
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: EB,NJ
Posts: 774
lowering springs??
whats the difference between the brands of lowering springs other than the amount of drop, even though some are pretty much the same drop..? i've been lookin around on ebay and saw a few brands that i haven't heard of.. i've heard of eibach and know that a lot of ppl use these and like them..
so has anyone heard of canuck motorsports or vogtland??
i'm looking to lower it just a little bit, not too low because i don't want to scrape anything, especially my driveway.. my notchback is lowered and i have to pull in my driveway at an angle so as to not scrape the undercarriage..
also, i like the stance of it how it is now, where the front sits a little lower for a more aggressive look.. i just would like to lessen the space in the wheel wells a little
and one more question.. is there anything else that i NEED to get when i get lowering springs? i've heard people mention a panhard bar and something else, but are these needed or do they just help a little?
thanks in advance!
so has anyone heard of canuck motorsports or vogtland??
i'm looking to lower it just a little bit, not too low because i don't want to scrape anything, especially my driveway.. my notchback is lowered and i have to pull in my driveway at an angle so as to not scrape the undercarriage..
also, i like the stance of it how it is now, where the front sits a little lower for a more aggressive look.. i just would like to lessen the space in the wheel wells a little
and one more question.. is there anything else that i NEED to get when i get lowering springs? i've heard people mention a panhard bar and something else, but are these needed or do they just help a little?
thanks in advance!
09-19-2008, 11:26 AM
#2
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
Some springs are linear and some are progressive in the spring rates.
They are made from different materials and with different manufacturing
processes.
An adjustable pan hard bar is nice if you drop her 1" or more in the rear. I have the Roush rears installed and no panhard bar was needed.
New rear Shocks will also be needed for a bearable ride quality.
In the front, its new Struts, Camber bolts and bump steer eliminators.
A rear reverse L arm relocation kit is also nice up front as well as LCA
relocation brackets in the rear. An adjustable UCA will be needed to correct
the pinion angle on severe drops in the rear. And the list goes on and on
to do a drop correctly and have proper handling afterwards.
Roush front and rear springs with the matching struts/shocks
if you dont want so much drop as to not scrape or need the
items listed above. The Roush drop is not so severe as to upset
the Ford suspension geometry too bad as to need the other
correcting components.
They are made from different materials and with different manufacturing
processes.
An adjustable pan hard bar is nice if you drop her 1" or more in the rear. I have the Roush rears installed and no panhard bar was needed.
New rear Shocks will also be needed for a bearable ride quality.
In the front, its new Struts, Camber bolts and bump steer eliminators.
A rear reverse L arm relocation kit is also nice up front as well as LCA
relocation brackets in the rear. An adjustable UCA will be needed to correct
the pinion angle on severe drops in the rear. And the list goes on and on
to do a drop correctly and have proper handling afterwards.
Roush front and rear springs with the matching struts/shocks
if you dont want so much drop as to not scrape or need the
items listed above. The Roush drop is not so severe as to upset
the Ford suspension geometry too bad as to need the other
correcting components.
Last edited by 157dB; 09-20-2008 at 12:26 PM.
09-19-2008, 12:05 PM
#3
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Virginia
Posts: 40
Vogtland, which I have on my Bullitt, makes a really nice product. Lowers the car about 1 inch in front and 1.2 in back.
And you'll need a Panhard bar.
Call Sam Strano at stranoparts.com and he'll walk you through what you need.
And you'll need a Panhard bar.
Call Sam Strano at stranoparts.com and he'll walk you through what you need.
09-20-2008, 12:30 PM
#6
Cut & Paste Expert
Join Date: May 2007
Location: NW Arkansas
Posts: 13,322
The OEM panhard bar is at a 2 degree angle to the axle
tubes at stock rear end height.
It is 42" long. Go back to the days of good ol geometery
and do the math. A 1" drop only works out the about 1/4",
if that, of sideways movement. A 1/2" sideways movement
of the rear axle during 1" of spring compression would cause
all sorts of handling problems.
An adjustable panhard bar is optional.
tubes at stock rear end height.
It is 42" long. Go back to the days of good ol geometery
and do the math. A 1" drop only works out the about 1/4",
if that, of sideways movement. A 1/2" sideways movement
of the rear axle during 1" of spring compression would cause
all sorts of handling problems.
An adjustable panhard bar is optional.
09-20-2008, 01:54 PM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: EB,NJ
Posts: 774
09-20-2008, 11:31 PM
#9
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: CA
Posts: 1,700
The OEM panhard bar is at a 2 degree angle to the axle
tubes at stock rear end height.
It is 42" long. Go back to the days of good ol geometery
and do the math. A 1" drop only works out the about 1/4",
if that, of sideways movement. A 1/2" sideways movement
of the rear axle during 1" of spring compression would cause
all sorts of handling problems.
An adjustable panhard bar is optional.
tubes at stock rear end height.
It is 42" long. Go back to the days of good ol geometery
and do the math. A 1" drop only works out the about 1/4",
if that, of sideways movement. A 1/2" sideways movement
of the rear axle during 1" of spring compression would cause
all sorts of handling problems.
An adjustable panhard bar is optional.
don't forget that the phb swings an arc
all sorts of handling problems?.......care to explain?
09-21-2008, 06:42 AM
#10
Retired Moderator
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 9,235
Actually, it probably has one LH & RH thread to avoid removal and ease of adjustment....... one sec.... yup, it does
I like the rod end/rod end one myself, but will create some road noise though.
Jazzer