which acster/camber plates?
looking for something durable, and easily adjustable at the track.
one fella i know with a steeda Q650, showed me the steeda version, which he really likes, and showed how easy it was to jack up the front, slide them in for some negative camber while on track, and then reverse it for the trip home.
at the moment i am considering Maximum motorsports, and steeda's, at the moment.
is one or the other any more accurate for the return to "neutral". i don't want to have to go to an alignment shop after each track outing.
my car is not yet lowered, but will be soon.
anticipating koni yellow's, and steeda ultralight springs.
other thoughts and recommendations welcome,
doc
one fella i know with a steeda Q650, showed me the steeda version, which he really likes, and showed how easy it was to jack up the front, slide them in for some negative camber while on track, and then reverse it for the trip home.
at the moment i am considering Maximum motorsports, and steeda's, at the moment.
is one or the other any more accurate for the return to "neutral". i don't want to have to go to an alignment shop after each track outing.
my car is not yet lowered, but will be soon.
anticipating koni yellow's, and steeda ultralight springs.
other thoughts and recommendations welcome,
doc
Last edited by doc stang; Oct 5, 2008 at 08:29 AM.
Scribing a few marks of your own and lining them up or measuring from some fixed reference line(s) should get you close enough. If you're "off" by 1/32", that's less than 0.1° caster or camber error. Well within tolerance, and better than you'd get at any of the "lifetime guarantee" shops if you don't keep buying parts from them.
More repeatable but fussier would be to make up a set of "go/no-go" blocks that you bottom out against at whatever preferred street setting you decide upon. Maybe a second set for your track days once you settle on those settings.
It was the thread title you edited, right?
Norm
More repeatable but fussier would be to make up a set of "go/no-go" blocks that you bottom out against at whatever preferred street setting you decide upon. Maybe a second set for your track days once you settle on those settings.
It was the thread title you edited, right?
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; Oct 5, 2008 at 08:59 AM.
I have the Maximum Motorsports plates. They give a total of 1.6 degrees of range vs. the Steeda versions which only give 1.0 degree. They also allow caster adjustment that locks in, independent of the camber. For the extra $30, getting the MM plates was a no-brainer.
I attached a little guide bar of 1/8" aluminum across the strut tower opening and marked the max outboard and max inboard travel marks. Then made some marks to divide it in 4, so each mark = 0.4 degrees of camber change. My street setting is max outboard and at the track I dump in to my third mark, which adds 1.2 degrees of negative (for a total of -2.7).
I attached a little guide bar of 1/8" aluminum across the strut tower opening and marked the max outboard and max inboard travel marks. Then made some marks to divide it in 4, so each mark = 0.4 degrees of camber change. My street setting is max outboard and at the track I dump in to my third mark, which adds 1.2 degrees of negative (for a total of -2.7).
ps
i ordered the dunlop direzza z1 star spec's yesterday from tire rack
couldn't get the nitto nt01's in time for next friday/sat/sun.
255/35 18's, to go on my other bullitt rims.
i think i am going to go with some 17" weds sports for christmas.
aces,
i ordered the dunlop direzza z1 star spec's yesterday from tire rack
couldn't get the nitto nt01's in time for next friday/sat/sun.
255/35 18's, to go on my other bullitt rims.
i think i am going to go with some 17" weds sports for christmas.
aces,
Sounds like you already ordered them Doc. Just in case anyone else is reading this - I have the J&M plates. They have been working well for me. I can get a total of 2 degrees out of them.
Tip of interest - at the track yesterday I measured the tire temps using a probe. Front left was perfect across the tire. Front right was a 13 degree difference, hotter on the outside than inside. This tells me the track was hard of the right tire, lots of left hand turns. It also indicates I could use a little more camber on that side. But unfortunately they are maxed out.
Tip of interest - at the track yesterday I measured the tire temps using a probe. Front left was perfect across the tire. Front right was a 13 degree difference, hotter on the outside than inside. This tells me the track was hard of the right tire, lots of left hand turns. It also indicates I could use a little more camber on that side. But unfortunately they are maxed out.
Import - Try uploading them to an album and linking to that address. Be aware that there might be size limits on individual files or the entire album (that you don't want to wipe out with one file of limited overall interest).
doc - no direct experience with anybody's C-C plates (I've either modified the strut tower tops or the strut to knuckle holes for DIY adjustments). But elsewhere I've heard consistently good reviews of MM products in general, and having that extra 0.6° range of adjustment just might tip the balance if it's a toss-up otherwise.
Norm
doc - no direct experience with anybody's C-C plates (I've either modified the strut tower tops or the strut to knuckle holes for DIY adjustments). But elsewhere I've heard consistently good reviews of MM products in general, and having that extra 0.6° range of adjustment just might tip the balance if it's a toss-up otherwise.
Norm
Last edited by Norm Peterson; Oct 11, 2008 at 07:48 AM. Reason: speelin'


