Norm Peterson

Doesn't matter whose it is, or whether it's preliminary, unofficial, unchecked, or final data. Something is not adding up. And that puts a cloud at least around the spring and wheel rate information that we're looking for here. IOW, you really don't know what's really there for spring rates because the two sets of numbers do not appear to be consistent with each other and it is not possible to establish which set should be taken as the basis.

I'd like to know this too, so if anybody can show either how those wheel and spring rate numbers are consistent with one another or which ones are correct, I would welcome that information.


Norm

Sam Strano

Due to motion ratios there is no way the wheel rate can be greater than the spring rate, so I doubt that paperwork too.. I also doubt it because I took a 31.7mm bar off my girlfriends V-6, bone stock bought brand new and that bar isn't even listed.

Scott--you messed up with the bigger front bar. I could have saved you some money, but I guess someone else will be happy they got it for selling you something that you not only didn't need, but that doesn't help the car. If you want help setting up the car, that's fine, but I'd ask you stick with me on setup and parts because if there is one thing I don't like to do it's sell something I don't think will help.

Norm Peterson

I can't add any specific numbers here, but I will suggest that there will almost certainly be fewer different rates than you have codes. Typically there are a number of OE springs of slightly different free lengths that are pulled on assembly as required to make the car end up at the design ride height based on how it is equipped. This considers weight, weight distribution, and suspension package performance level. Doesn't always work out that way in production (Bullitts?), but that's the intention.


Norm

SlideWRX

Coming back to this thread, I happen to be reading through the document that showed the spring rates. I forgot I had it! The whole thing can be downloaded here:

http://www.fordvehicles.com/assets/p...tang_specs.pdf

It contains a LOT of into about the mustang. I agree on the wheel-rate thing, it seems the other-way around. Sam, the post I quoted from you; was that measured somewhere?
Anyway, The GT is noticeably softer than my old WRX, which was running roughly 180 front 150 rear.

azrampage

You have mail...... The front bar I bought is the Steeda 35mm adjustable; my Pony package came with the GT 34mm front bar. Seems I could just soften the setting to match what the factory bar did. Tried that once (from full stiff) and it seemed the rear became looser, but it did turn in better. Shocks next?

Sam Strano

As I stated to you by e-mail, the 35mm bar is not softer (and cannot be made softer) than the GT/Pony package 34mm bar. Softening it helped, because it's too stiff.

In fact the 34mm bar is too stiff vs. the rear 20mm bar for balance, but you have to trade balance and wheelspin to some degree. That said w/o a limited slip in a G-stock car it'll always wheelspin way too much and I'd have to say run the better balanced bar setup (which would be less than stock). If you move to STX or somewhere you can add an LSD then you can run more front bar as you'd also be allowed to play with the rear bar and the springs all around to get the balance you want.

A set of adjustable dampers would most certainly help you drive the car better. It'd be more nimble and easier to place. If they didn't help, I'd not run them (and I do).

azrampage

Konis ordered from Sam. More good stuff to follow. Thank you for the advice.

OK....let's develop a data base for our 05+ Mustangs.

2007 Mustang Pony Package V-6

Springs (F/R).........BB/AA
..........(spring rates unknown, but we can compare what came on what)
Front sway bar.......34mm
Rear sway bar........18mm

Yours?

SlideWRX

Bumping because someone wants to measure the OEM springs:

http://www.vorshlag.com/tech_springrates.php
spreadsheet, currently has GT rears (among other cars):
http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?k...3I3mP8cOvc5vZQ

Looks like they are in Dallas, if you have springs sitting around to be tested.

azrampage

Bought the yellow Konis from Sam S., and will be using them for the first time this Sunday (1/4/09).

I'm looking for advice on what settings to start with. I have had Konis on most of my other cars, so am somewhat familiar with how they work.

I have the Direzza 255/45/17 tires (on the factory 8" wheels) , running about 39#f/36#r, camber bolts in front at -2.5' and 1/8" toe out, and the Steeda front bar set at middle.

Even running around town at full soft these are far firmer than the stock shocks, so I'm thinking maybe +3/4 turn from full soft F & R to start and then adjust from there? I think they go about 2 1/3 to full hard.

Any and all advice appreciated, especially that based upon personal experience.......

Norm Peterson

There's a Koni procedure for double-adjustable shocks that you could probably follow the 'rebound adjustment' portion of. Basically you start full soft, drive a couple of laps paying attention to how the car rolls on corner entry (I think they mean roll velocity and overly abrupt roll motions). Adjust slightly firmer, and drive some more. Repeat until the car enters the turn "smoothly" (no abrupt roll motions - that's underdamping). After that, you can tweak the front vs rear to obtain desired transient handling behavior (this is where the guides that, for example, tell you to stiffen the rear shocks for less understeer/more oversteer actually enter the picture).


Norm