UCA, LCA, and shocks/strut questions.
#1
UCA, LCA, and shocks/strut questions.
Okay im looking into doing my suspension finally. I dont know what would be better for what I am wanting. Basically I drive my car daily and occasionally go to the strip so would I be better off with adjustable upper and lower control arms or regular upper and lower control arms?
Also my last track visit my car had a bad problem with squating on my launch. If you watch in the vid at the 8:15 and 9:00 mark you can see what im talking about. So I figure with adjustable shocks and struts will help me in this area but I was told that unless im doing auto-x d-specs wont help me much. Opinions on what kind I should get?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdcwsuQdjmc
Also my last track visit my car had a bad problem with squating on my launch. If you watch in the vid at the 8:15 and 9:00 mark you can see what im talking about. So I figure with adjustable shocks and struts will help me in this area but I was told that unless im doing auto-x d-specs wont help me much. Opinions on what kind I should get?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdcwsuQdjmc
#2
I am not a drag racing person but those who are would probably want to know what engine mods you have done or are planning to do.
Here is a good link that explains LCAs etc. http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA%20_adj.htm
Here is a good link that explains LCAs etc. http://www.cherod.com/mustang/HowTo/LCA%20_adj.htm
#3
unless your lowered you will not need adjustable. if you plan on lowering in the future get adjustables if not stay with non. as for squat, shocks and struts are the only way to go. but if your not gonna lower relocation brackets for the lca will help with intital squat but wont help at all with the bouncing your getting.
#4
Mods: JLT cai, x-cal2 w/ 93 bama tunes, 62mm TB, cmcv deletes, u/d pulleys, long tubes, o/r x-pipe, flows, 4.10s, 26x11.50/17 et streets (track), short throw shifter, 75 shot (not wired up..soon)
I figure if I got the adjustable shocks and struts I could adjust them so that the nose wouldnt come down as easily or as much. So the d-specs should be fine for what I want or should I go with some other brand like QA1?
Yes lowering springs are in the near future and a drive before I break that.
I figure if I got the adjustable shocks and struts I could adjust them so that the nose wouldnt come down as easily or as much. So the d-specs should be fine for what I want or should I go with some other brand like QA1?
Yes lowering springs are in the near future and a drive before I break that.
#5
ive seen good results from the q-a1's and like said before i would run the poly fixed length lowers w/ squat brackets and run a poly adj upper even if your not lowered believe me spend the extra couple now youll be happy you did
#6
adjustable upper is only needed to correct pinion angle. if you like you can get an adjustable but as you said your thinking of lowering so get adjustable everything. if its adjustable just remember to get an alignment after. some will say its not needed but i disagree. also yes if you get adjustables i would recomend stiff up front and soft out back. some say opposite but thats only in high hp applications (over 500)
#8
since you're gonna get lowered, go with adjustable LCA's and UCA. i'm sure you can find some uses for adjustable shocks/struts, but unless you AutoX or road race, you probably don't need something like the Koni double adjustables, so i would probably go D-specs. and do yourself a favor and get some LCA relocation brackets.
#9
Im just wondering, what would be the purpose of having both adjustable? I guess that technically when you adjust the upper, it would change the position of the tire in the wheel well, but I wouldn't think it would move hardly at all, we are talking about a couple degrees right? Although, Adjustable lowers would be a good idea if you have relocation brackets unless you position them perfectly. I would think that just lowering wouldnt require both, one or the other, it would just be one less thing to worry about coming loose, having to adjust, etc.
To answer your question, I'm guessing your talking about if you can loosen up two jam nuts and adjust on the car vs. having to unbolt one side and adjusting that one side? If thats the case, I would go with double adjustable, less hassle to adjust, although on single adjustable, if the jam nut came loose, it would not adjust very much, if at all, depending on what kind of joint it was.
To answer your question, I'm guessing your talking about if you can loosen up two jam nuts and adjust on the car vs. having to unbolt one side and adjusting that one side? If thats the case, I would go with double adjustable, less hassle to adjust, although on single adjustable, if the jam nut came loose, it would not adjust very much, if at all, depending on what kind of joint it was.
Last edited by JA66; 10-29-2008 at 02:28 PM.