S197 Handling Section For everything suspension related, inlcuding brakes, tires, and wheels.

adjustable LCA or UCA

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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 09:56 AM
  #11  
Norm Peterson's Avatar
Norm Peterson
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It may be in the FSM. My work computer won't let me load it, but I'll look through for it when I get home unless somebody beats me to it.


Norm
Old Jan 30, 2009 | 10:34 AM
  #12  
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Texotic
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Be careful about assuming the arc on the relo brackets will keep it in alignment. Those have to welded on, so if you get an absolutely perfect weld, you still have to compensate for manufacturing tolerances. I wouldn't really be trusting that the brackets are aligned perfectly straight.
Old Jan 30, 2009 | 01:29 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Texotic
If you get LCA relocation brackets, changing the angle of the LCA's will slightly alter the length they need to be to keep the same pinion angle. For instance, there different angles of the LCA's are better for different applications (think road course vs. drag trip) and if you want to kep everything aligned correctly the pinion angle must be altered very slightly. Honestly, unless you're the one doing the alignments, you won't gain anything from having the LCA's be adjustable. If you're like 99% of owners, you'll just have a shop do all of your alignments, so the ease of adjusting won't matter. If you can afford it, my favorite setup is Steeda's billet LCA's (non-adjustable, but the bushings are maintenance free) with the Steeda Competion UCA (adjustable). Those are higher end pieces, though and I don't plan on installing a UCA until after I'm already lowered, so I got adjustable LCA's to make sure I could adjust my pinion angle until then.
That was actually part of why I was asking. I had planned on getting the steeda gtrac suspension setup 1 2 and 3. Steeda has never let me down with their suspension setup
Old Jan 30, 2009 | 02:33 PM
  #14  
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Norm Peterson
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Best I could find for numbers

The main section numbers 1 and 2 should read 5 and 6 (copy/paste copied the paragraph formatting but not the numbers themselves).


Calculate the difference in the slope of the components to determine the U-joint operating angle.
  1. The U-joint operating angle is the angle formed by 2 yokes connected by a cross and bearing kit. Ideally, the operating angles on each connection of the driveshaft must:
    1. be equal or within 1 degree of each other.
    2. have a 3 degree maximum operating angle.
    3. have at least 1/2 of 1 degree continuous operating angle.
  2. If the angle is not within specifications, repair or adjust to obtain the correct angle. Inspect the engine mounts, transmission mounts, center support bearing mounting, rear suspension, rear axle, rear axle mounting or the frame for wear or damage.
Norm
Old Jan 30, 2009 | 02:35 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Texotic
If you get LCA relocation brackets, changing the angle of the LCA's will slightly alter the length they need to be to keep the same pinion angle. For instance, there different angles of the LCA's are better for different applications (think road course vs. drag trip) and if you want to kep everything aligned correctly the pinion angle must be altered very slightly.
That's actually not true on a proper set of brackets, as the holes should be angled to compensate for the change in distance. There might be some out there that don't do that, and I'd steer very clear of them if they do exist.

The Steeda's are my choie for LCA brackets *IF* you need them because they offer you more positions to set them. That said I certainly don't feel that every car needs them and in fact I rarely use them myself.

As for the original question: I'd do adjustable lowers for a number of reasons.

1. You can correct any axle mis-alignment issues you may have.

2. The preferred style of Adjustable LCA's I use eliminates binding from all poly bushings.

3. Pinion angle does not effectively change much when lowering, if it did and was a problem then everyone would have funny vibrations when they drop a car, but yet nobody does.
Old Jan 30, 2009 | 04:49 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
Best I could find for numbers

The main section numbers 1 and 2 should read 5 and 6 (copy/paste copied the paragraph formatting but not the numbers themselves).

Calculate the difference in the slope of the components to determine the U-joint operating angle.
The U-joint operating angle is the angle formed by 2 yokes connected by a cross and bearing kit. Ideally, the operating angles on each connection of the driveshaft must:
be equal or within 1 degree of each other.
have a 3 degree maximum operating angle.
have at least 1/2 of 1 degree continuous operating angle.
If the angle is not within specifications, repair or adjust to obtain the correct angle. Inspect the engine mounts, transmission mounts, center support bearing mounting, rear suspension, rear axle, rear axle mounting or the frame for wear or damage.

Norm
Can you explain how this compares with the Steeda process http://www.steeda.com/directions/555...l-arm-s197.pdf and suggests the result should be "Best angles range from 2 degrees to 5 degrees down."?
Old Jan 31, 2009 | 08:19 AM
  #17  
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Norm Peterson
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Looks like the 2° - 5° down applies to one piece driveshafts, and the FSM obviously applies only to the OE two-piece.


Norm
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