much needed suspension mods!
03-20-2009, 05:13 PM
#21
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 4,897
Whatever the case, it's not that difficult to install any piece of suspension on these cars. I'd never attempted any suspension upgrades on the S197 but after doing my front/rear shocks/struts/springs last weekend I have no doubt I could swap out any part under there in 30 minutes or less. I love working on this car... I never wanted to slide under the f-body lol.
I have D-specs, Steeda competition springs, and Steeda HD spring mounts. My adjustatable panhard should be here any day now and I've already purchased some H&R race springs from another forum member to give those a try.
I plan to do upper and lower CA's along with steeda's relocation brackets rear and maximum motorsports bumpsteer kit and steeda CA relocation kit in the front. I'll also probably upgrade to a larger rear swaybar, the front is large enough stock, or at least that's what the "experts" say.
I don't really think the upper strut tower brace is neccessary.. more of an appearance mod. I dunno, some say they feel it working.. most don't. You did good going with the Koni's.. they were out of my budget range at the time so I went with the d-specs.
I have D-specs, Steeda competition springs, and Steeda HD spring mounts. My adjustatable panhard should be here any day now and I've already purchased some H&R race springs from another forum member to give those a try.
I plan to do upper and lower CA's along with steeda's relocation brackets rear and maximum motorsports bumpsteer kit and steeda CA relocation kit in the front. I'll also probably upgrade to a larger rear swaybar, the front is large enough stock, or at least that's what the "experts" say.
I don't really think the upper strut tower brace is neccessary.. more of an appearance mod. I dunno, some say they feel it working.. most don't. You did good going with the Koni's.. they were out of my budget range at the time so I went with the d-specs.
03-20-2009, 05:20 PM
#22
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 4,897
And don't worry about adjustable lower CA's.. I'll probably go with solid non-adjustables too. IF you need pinion adjustment, an adj. upper will accomplish that.
My rear tires are about 1/4'' off w/o the adjustable panhard and the 1.4'' drop of the steeda comp springs. I'll correct it when it's installed but it's not a problem.
My rear tires are about 1/4'' off w/o the adjustable panhard and the 1.4'' drop of the steeda comp springs. I'll correct it when it's installed but it's not a problem.
03-20-2009, 05:31 PM
#23
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,692
In case you hadn't noticed it the Steeda LCA Relocation brackets require welding to install.
http://www.steeda.com/directions/555...racket_kit.pdf
They are also best installed using an alignment rack.
http://www.steeda.com/directions/555...racket_kit.pdf
They are also best installed using an alignment rack.
03-20-2009, 05:49 PM
#24
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 4,897
It's my understanding that all relocation brackets should be welded. One of the other guys on the forum had some bolt-in BMR's and hooked so hard on a 12.4 run that they BENT 
. After hearing that story I decided that any relo's would be welded in. The steedas offer more range of adjustment than any others and that nice gold colored plating will look hella cool under the rear of my dark car.. yeah, looks do still matter to me lol.
. After hearing that story I decided that any relo's would be welded in. The steedas offer more range of adjustment than any others and that nice gold colored plating will look hella cool under the rear of my dark car.. yeah, looks do still matter to me lol.
04-04-2009, 12:06 AM
#27
3rd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 963
alright so i got everything installed.
the steeda billet LCAs, welded relocaton brackets, steeda adj UCA, steeda hd strut mounts, koni yellows, to go with my steeda panhard bar and pro-kit springs.
i have a question:
I noticed there is a slight noise, that i can best describe as a clunking in the rear when i shift gears and engage the clutch or hit a bump. It not very loud and only noticeable if you are really paying attention. Is this normal? I torqued all the bolts so im sure nothing is loose, and i properly greased the bushings. My LCAs are still at a slight angle so i know i need to adjust the UCA more.
My observations from the suspension are wow. I have the konis at full firm and i can feel every bump in the road. The new LCAs and relo brackets eliminated most of the wheel hop and the car grips much better! The rear feels insanely tight.
Also i had the car up to 125 on the interstate and i felt so much better! Overall im very happy and cant wait to play with the settings a bit more to find that perfect ride!
Will post some pics tomorrow when there is some light outside.
the steeda billet LCAs, welded relocaton brackets, steeda adj UCA, steeda hd strut mounts, koni yellows, to go with my steeda panhard bar and pro-kit springs.
i have a question:
I noticed there is a slight noise, that i can best describe as a clunking in the rear when i shift gears and engage the clutch or hit a bump. It not very loud and only noticeable if you are really paying attention. Is this normal? I torqued all the bolts so im sure nothing is loose, and i properly greased the bushings. My LCAs are still at a slight angle so i know i need to adjust the UCA more.
My observations from the suspension are wow. I have the konis at full firm and i can feel every bump in the road. The new LCAs and relo brackets eliminated most of the wheel hop and the car grips much better! The rear feels insanely tight.
Also i had the car up to 125 on the interstate and i felt so much better! Overall im very happy and cant wait to play with the settings a bit more to find that perfect ride!
Will post some pics tomorrow when there is some light outside.
Last edited by nmd55; 04-04-2009 at 05:52 PM.
04-04-2009, 09:54 AM
#28
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 4,897
I'm experiencing the exact same pop/thunk you're talking about. Do you have a one-piece driveshaft? I'm betting mine is the parking brake bracket or something around the driveshaft tunnel. I plan to get it on a lift at some point this weekend and see what's making contact. Here are some pics of my DS and the marks on it.
04-04-2009, 09:58 AM
#29
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 4,897
Oh, I see you also picked up the steeda upper CA. Did you install their "stepped spacer"?
Stepped Spacer Details
This spacer is designed to fix the problem with the OEM upper link. At the attachment point for the upper link to the chassis mount Ford uses a 14mm bolt, but the opening in the mount is 16mm. This is not typically a problem with the OEM mount as it uses a soft hydra mount bushing to soften this. But once an aftermarket upper is installed with a urethane bushing can transmit this noise or clunk. This space can be installed with all aftermarket upper that still use a 14mm bolt. The stepped spacer takes up the slop and eliminates all noise from the upper. Note, it does work with aftermarket chassis mounts with smaller then 16mm bolt holes.
Stepped Spacer Details
This spacer is designed to fix the problem with the OEM upper link. At the attachment point for the upper link to the chassis mount Ford uses a 14mm bolt, but the opening in the mount is 16mm. This is not typically a problem with the OEM mount as it uses a soft hydra mount bushing to soften this. But once an aftermarket upper is installed with a urethane bushing can transmit this noise or clunk. This space can be installed with all aftermarket upper that still use a 14mm bolt. The stepped spacer takes up the slop and eliminates all noise from the upper. Note, it does work with aftermarket chassis mounts with smaller then 16mm bolt holes.
