Norm Peterson

Here.

I have absolutely no idea what sort of use/abuse they were subjected to, but they don't look like they'd cope with wheel hop very well assuming that they did not eliminate it entirely.


Norm

dark-army

hmmm.... interesting. Kinda concerned now! I'll have to look into this more. Thanks for the heads up norm!

And I think this is finally post #50 for me

Norm Peterson

If you got the CHE 05-09 LCAs you should be OK. The connection between the LCA tube and the bushing shell looks much more substantial. Other CHE products seem to get generally good reviews.

This them? http://www.lethalperformance.com/sus...l-arms-p-17013


And just because you made me conscious of it - today is my 2nd anniversary as a member here and this is post #2500



Norm

Sam Strano

I'd forgo the PHB brace and put that money to Koni's over D-specs (well documented reasons why). I think the springs are fine. I think you should have an adjustable PHB. I don't think you need camber bolts necessarily. In fact for handling and the best grip you don't want to take camber away, you want more.

Now, the cost for the above would be very much in the same total range, maybe a few bucks more because Koni's even while they are on sale, still cost more (for a damned good reason, they work better are are more durable). And yes, I've run (and sell) both. I also carry Steeda parts including their springs. And all kinds of various PHB's.

RodeoFlyer

At only 1" of drop you can go without a new phb for a while if you want to. Norm's the engineer - he can give you the math. I'll just tell you the rear wont shift that much. Sam has won himself a couple autox championships with the factory bar and FRPP/Eibach springs. The FR500S cars all have stock GT phb/brace as well.

Don't worry about pinion angle, relocation brackets, etc, for what you are doing. Too many people will tell you everything you should buy. I'll tell you everything you don't.

As far as dampers - Koni if you want adjustability and Bilstein if you don't. The Tokico D-specs are only slightly better crap than the old Ilumina's. They're cheap for a reason. KW are great if you want to be cool like me ; )

....or Penske, as on my new SLA being installed next week ; )

I wouldn't bother with camber bolts. They never seem to stay put. Buy the GT500 heavy duty strut mounts. People would be surprised how much negative static camber you can run on these cars without adverse tire wear - not that you will see any. You will end up with somewhere between -.75 and -1.00, which is just fine. The far end of the factory allowance is -1.5 or -1.7, can't remember which. Camber plates would be real nice if you could afford them, but you don't NEED them.

Get some adjustable swaybar links from Sam - they're nice. The stock ones suck and you want to get the preload out of the bar.

HTH

dark-army

Hey sam and rodeo, thanks for the input. I did a lot of reading on what F1fan was saying from the stickies, but hearing and reading your stuff has given me pause to consider. Just a couple more questions and I think I'll be all set to make a move. From what you guys are saying is I could get away buying just konis and steeda sport springs and be alright? Any negative camber would be slight and possibly improve handling. and if possible an adj. panhard bar. (im running 295s in the rear, so im worried even a small offset will be visible)

Sam, that price on konis is really good. Do you guys offer a military discount?

Sam Strano

Input is always good. F1Fan hasn't been around in a while, and no all of us always agreed (which is fine). He was in love with D-specs, but was touting them long before the Koni's were around (and after having not run the Koni's from what I could tell). I sell and have personally used both, and Koni's are what I stuck with.

No matter what you need on the 'net, you need to weight it carefully (even if I'm saying it!) and read between the lines. What are you being told? What is the basis for the comment? Ask 10 different folks and you'll get maybe 15 different answers.

With about a 1" drop you're camber would still be in spec, more negative, but nothing that would absolutely require bolts/plates, etc. Because of your big rear tires I'd recommend an adjustable PHB (or a Watts link if you are more serious). Between the fact the body will shift and you have less wiggle room because of the tire (and presumably wheel) size, and the fact that the more flush the tires are with the quarter panels the more obvious it is the body is shifted, I think it's a wise idea. And adjustable PHB's start @$109.

Discounts: The Koni's are already on a big sale (some $81.20 off normal price). And to be very honest with you I'm small and do my best to sell for the best price I can all the time. As much as you deserve a discount because of your service, I'm not comfortable with charging someone else more because they aren't in the military.... So I just do what I can do....

dark-army

Yeah, I'm still running some options around. Tough decisions, esp. with all the $$ involved. I want the best, but the D-specs offer the adjustability for cheaper, and they seem to be a well respected, good product. I'll think about it.

And I completely understand. Never hurts to ask though.

BleedinBlue

I hate to *****, but what does this sound/act like? Since I got my car I've heard a noise from the front passenger side, it's light and I can only hear it at low speeds, windows down and while shifting weight (Accelerating/Decelerating). Suspension is 100% stock, unfortunately. I made a thread asking about this months ago but didn't get any help.