what do I need to get in order to launch my car as hard as possible and get as much traction as I can off the line??

 

Folks in this thread might want to read stealth GT's 4.10 auto thread first.

LCAs of some sort will almost certainly be part of the solution, but I think stealth needs to do a few more "launches" with those new gears than I think he has so far. Ideally, I think real 60' times on the summer tires. That way he might be able to describe in particular what needs fixing.

stealth - I'm a firm believer in "sneaking up" on a solution, and stopping when I get one. In this case, the plan would probably include the UCA and relo brackets, but not necessarily both.


Norm

 

Stealth, relocation brackets will be the best option. You have the ability to adjust your instant center which will give you the hardest launch possible. If you have any other questions please let me know.

 

no more 6k neutral drop launches?








...


Kidding.

(-:

 

Took a couple of seconds . . .

 

So would buying LCAs without the relocation brackets be a waste? If not, how easy is it to install just the LCAs? I kinda dont want to pay anyone to weld them if i can use them without the brackets and still eliminate alot of wheel hop.

 

Wow, you guys are super technical right off the bat, good job! I'd have just said that your stock LCAs flex like accordians, while good aftermarket LCAs are solid as a rock.

 

Some of us have been at this a while, and some of us don't post the simple-sounding answers because they are frequently misleading and may not always even be correct. Engineers are like that.

Until you're about to pull the LF wheel on launch, the fact that the OE rear LCAs look flexible in torsion or one of the bending directions doesn't really matter, as they aren't being very heavily loaded in those directions until that happens. Up to some point, it's the bushing softness (aka "compliance") that allows the flex. The steel isn't going to flex very much in the flexible-looking directions as long as either the bushings can do so instead or the car isn't rolling enough to cause much need for any LCA/LCA bushing flex in the first place.

It's only after you get wheelstand that (1) the car suddenly rolls quite a lot more, which (2) suddenly twists and bends the LCAs/LCA bushings quite a bit more, which (3) causes a much worse stress increase than you might guess from just comparing acceleration times. If you've put stiff poly bushings in OE or OE-style LCAs to kill wheel hop, the steel must now do some of the twisting and bending that really should have been done in the bushings.


Norm

 

If you aren't lowered and don't plan on getting lowered, then you shouldn't need re-location brackets. As far as LCAs, both Steeda and BMR are good. I have Steeda LCA and BMR UCA.

 

No. LCAs by themselves may be enough to kill off your wheel hop, in which case you're all done. Worst case, you still have some, and get to decide between a UCA and relo brackets. I think I'd go with the UCA next if it was still a hop problem, relo brackets if I was getting wheelspin too easily but with no hop (or only a little).

Two bolts and one P-brake cable per side is about all that's involved.

If you can't weld, or can but don't trust yourself - it shouldn't be all that expensive. I'd guess $20 - $30?

If it's at all possible that you'll ever get relo brackets, plan on getting adjustable LCAs. That way, in case either the brackets aren't perfect or the installation isn't spot-on, you can still get the axle square in the car.


Norm