S197 Eibach Swaybar Advice?
#1
S197 Eibach Swaybar Advice?
I just bought a used set of these for cheap from a local owner. After installing them, with the front on the softest setting, I felt that the car was perfectly balanced on the street on street tires. The track-out, on-power oversteer that I had previously experience seemed so much more controlled. Previously, it felt like it would snap easily; but now the it's very smooth and predictible.
However, on 305 Hoosiers, I'm having a harder time finding the best track setting for myself. The stiffest setting seemed to be good on high speed turns. But still found myself having to trail brake on slow speed turns because I just couldn't get the car to rotate. This was running -2* of camber on the 305's mounted on 9.5" rims.
I realize this type of advice is very subjective; but any would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Edward
However, on 305 Hoosiers, I'm having a harder time finding the best track setting for myself. The stiffest setting seemed to be good on high speed turns. But still found myself having to trail brake on slow speed turns because I just couldn't get the car to rotate. This was running -2* of camber on the 305's mounted on 9.5" rims.
I realize this type of advice is very subjective; but any would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Edward
#2
try less front camber. Also is 305 on the front? This is unrelated but there's no real reason to run a tire that big there and multiple problems stem from doing so . If you have the ability to go smaller in the front I would and then rebalanced the car so it steers neutrally, you'll be faster. The mustang needs a greater balance towards the rear tires in terms of rubber because it's a point and shoot sort of car and they are the hardest working part of the vehicle, by going so wide in the front you're compromising the easy of control of the car and adding weight friction and rotating mass. Contrary to popular belief, wider is not always better.
#3
Camber was set by probing temps across the tires in hot pit. I had initially started @ 1.5; but there was a 10* temp gradient across the tire. Why would I want to stagger tires sizes on this thing? In most cases OEM's stagger tire sizes in performance cars to add understeer to keep their buyers from balling up their cars on the street. I don't think this applies for this car on the track.
#6
Your handling is more or less "What the ****" in that case and the best and primary way to solve it is to put a much stiffer sway bar up front and rebalanced the car front to rear . If you do this and see an improvement reduce your front camber and you should be even better off.
Last edited by Legion5; 04-27-2009 at 09:30 AM.
#7
I just bought a used set of these for cheap from a local owner. After installing them, with the front on the softest setting, I felt that the car was perfectly balanced on the street on street tires. The track-out, on-power oversteer that I had previously experience seemed so much more controlled. Previously, it felt like it would snap easily; but now the it's very smooth and predictible.
However, on 305 Hoosiers, I'm having a harder time finding the best track setting for myself. The stiffest setting seemed to be good on high speed turns. But still found myself having to trail brake on slow speed turns because I just couldn't get the car to rotate. This was running -2* of camber on the 305's mounted on 9.5" rims.
I realize this type of advice is very subjective; but any would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Edward
However, on 305 Hoosiers, I'm having a harder time finding the best track setting for myself. The stiffest setting seemed to be good on high speed turns. But still found myself having to trail brake on slow speed turns because I just couldn't get the car to rotate. This was running -2* of camber on the 305's mounted on 9.5" rims.
I realize this type of advice is very subjective; but any would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Edward
#9
I'm running GT500 wheels. There's no tire-to-body/suspension contact at rest. I didn't notice any rub at full lock in the paddock; and I was never at full lock anywhere on the track. There was however a wee bit of tire-to-strut contact under load - just enough to wear the paint off the strut on a spot smaller than a dime. On the tire, you'd be hard pressed to see the results of the rubbing. I'm only running these because I had them in my attic. They're a few years old; and the traction feels like it.
#10
I'm running GT500 wheels. There's no tire-to-body/suspension contact at rest. I didn't notice any rub at full lock in the paddock; and I was never at full lock anywhere on the track. There was however a wee bit of tire-to-strut contact under load - just enough to wear the paint off the strut on a spot smaller than a dime. On the tire, you'd be hard pressed to see the results of the rubbing. I'm only running these because I had them in my attic. They're a few years old; and the traction feels like it.