Measurement to tell if my GT has been lowered?
Thanks for the replies, although you've led me to another question.
The car came as it is, but with the factory Pirelli tires and 17" painted alloy wheels. The ride with those was very quiet.
Once I switched to the 18" x 9" and 18" x 10" deep dish wheels and 255 and 285 tires, the ride became clunky. I can hear and feel every bump.
I'm sure much of that is just the performance tires, but would a different spring help? My wife and I will be taking a long trip this summer, and I don't think she'd like the noise (and I wouldn't like having the factory wheels and tires back on).
The car came as it is, but with the factory Pirelli tires and 17" painted alloy wheels. The ride with those was very quiet.
Once I switched to the 18" x 9" and 18" x 10" deep dish wheels and 255 and 285 tires, the ride became clunky. I can hear and feel every bump.
I'm sure much of that is just the performance tires, but would a different spring help? My wife and I will be taking a long trip this summer, and I don't think she'd like the noise (and I wouldn't like having the factory wheels and tires back on).
Last edited by 07 GT E UPP; May 22, 2009 at 07:56 AM.
Texotic, I didn't remove any rotor clamps. Should I have?
07 GT E UPP, I didn't notice the clunkiness and noise when I test drove the car or when I drove it home. It was only after swapping out the wheels and tires.
The tires are near impossible for me to get to break loose when accelerating, or when cornering. I've really had to work at it to get them to squeal or slide, whereas the factory tires chirped if I just touched the gas at a stoplight.
I guess I'll just get used to the noise.
07 GT E UPP, I didn't notice the clunkiness and noise when I test drove the car or when I drove it home. It was only after swapping out the wheels and tires.
The tires are near impossible for me to get to break loose when accelerating, or when cornering. I've really had to work at it to get them to squeal or slide, whereas the factory tires chirped if I just touched the gas at a stoplight.
I guess I'll just get used to the noise.
Well, you shouldn't have any vibrations coming from the wheels. I know that there have been some problems with some little rings being left on the cars when they leave the factory that were used to hold the rotors on during assembly. These rings cause aftermarket wheels to not sit flush and some people get vibrations. A search should bring up a few threads with pictures so you can check.
Whenever you reduce the tire side wall height (aka plus sizing your wheel), you decrease the amount of tire absorption. The down side is feeling more road vibration. The up side is that you usually get better steering feedback and response.
BTW, your car has definitely been lowered.
BTW, your car has definitely been lowered.
yes, and I bet you'd like the stock ride back now, huh?
FWIW, I would NEVER return my suspension to stock. It performs so perfectly now I would never go back to that bobbing, squatting, diving barreling around stock setup.
I have zero vibration/noise and a super tight suspension which rides nice and taut even over the worst roads here in central TX. My first mistake was trying to add rod-end components. I've now swapped my stock rear CA's and panhard back on, which have rubber bushings, nice and quiet and probably articulate better than a poly setup.
The relocation brackets reduce squat/dive substantially and provide better traction. The steeda compeition springs don't overly drop the car yet have perfect spring rate and the D-specs work great. A set of hotchkis 1.5''/1'' rear swaybars really tied everything together perfectly. Much tighter feel, much less body roll, and very noticable difference in suspension control/firmness. The swaybars are my favorite suspension upgrade so far.
Crawl under your car and take some pics of the front/rear suspension components. Post them and we'll let you know what's been upgraded etc.
I have zero vibration/noise and a super tight suspension which rides nice and taut even over the worst roads here in central TX. My first mistake was trying to add rod-end components. I've now swapped my stock rear CA's and panhard back on, which have rubber bushings, nice and quiet and probably articulate better than a poly setup.
The relocation brackets reduce squat/dive substantially and provide better traction. The steeda compeition springs don't overly drop the car yet have perfect spring rate and the D-specs work great. A set of hotchkis 1.5''/1'' rear swaybars really tied everything together perfectly. Much tighter feel, much less body roll, and very noticable difference in suspension control/firmness. The swaybars are my favorite suspension upgrade so far.Crawl under your car and take some pics of the front/rear suspension components. Post them and we'll let you know what's been upgraded etc.
Agreed. If you want to know what you have- just take pictures.
Alternatively, IF you want the stock setup- I have ALL the components off of my 2008 GT for sale/trade. The stock setup really isn't bad at all. The S197 GT suspension is probably the best factory setup of any Mustang.
Alternatively, IF you want the stock setup- I have ALL the components off of my 2008 GT for sale/trade. The stock setup really isn't bad at all. The S197 GT suspension is probably the best factory setup of any Mustang.


