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Old 07-15-2009, 12:34 PM
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jtstakelin
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Default Spring question

I'm thinking about some eibach lowering springs as one of my next mods. Do I need to modify anything else when I do this? I don't autox the car but I do go to the strip. Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-15-2009, 01:34 PM
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Argonaut
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If you look back in history the consensus advice is: lowering springs require at a minimum: high quality dampers (Koni sports or Tokico D-specs are good choices). Other mods that may be needed depending on your car and the amount of lowering: adjustable pan hard bar, some sort of camber adjustment and possibly adjustable LCAs or UCA.

You will see posts from guys who tell you "all I did was change the springs and couldn't be happier". But you will see just as many from guys who tried that and regretted it and eventually got the dampers and other stuff anyway.

HTH, Brad
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Old 07-15-2009, 02:00 PM
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jtstakelin
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That is what I needed to know. Looks like I need the whole FRPP handling kit. Thanks.
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Old 07-17-2009, 01:32 AM
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socalwrench
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The springs need to be matched with the dampers. An adjustable track bar may be needed to center the rear axle.
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Old 07-17-2009, 11:55 AM
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ffk_pennywise
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I'm one of those guys who got away with springs only. I also bought camber bolts for the alignment. I dont think you can get away without those. Otherwise I'm doing fine. I drive 70 miles a day, and have been on the FRPP springs since March. Thats not to say my struts wont give out in the near future, but so far so good. If you have the money do the springs/shocks/struts all at once. But I wouldnt buy anything else until you know you need it. Every cars a bit different.
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Old 07-17-2009, 02:04 PM
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Ken04
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Originally Posted by socalwrench
The springs need to be matched with the dampers. An adjustable track bar may be needed to center the rear axle.

anything more than an inch of drop will kick your rear end over enough to notice. And that puts strain on the upper and lower control arms. Adj panhard bars are pretty inexpensive. I bought an Edelbrock for less that $120 shipped. If in doubt take measurements, I'd bet 1 1/2 drop kicks the rear end over at least 3/4".
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Old 07-17-2009, 02:15 PM
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Norm Peterson
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Originally Posted by Ken04
anything more than an inch of drop will kick your rear end over enough to notice. And that puts strain on the upper and lower control arms. Adj panhard bars are pretty inexpensive. I bought an Edelbrock for less that $120 shipped. If in doubt take measurements, I'd bet 1 1/2 drop kicks the rear end over at least 3/4".
Shouldn't, as long as you make your 'before' and your 'after' measurements with the car resting on its wheels and after rolling it a bit so the suspension settles into its static ride height. The PHB simply isn't angled up high enough to make that happen.

Even half an inch is more than a little suspect with respect to how well the 'before' and 'after' measurements were controlled.


Norm
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Old 07-20-2009, 10:16 PM
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Ken04
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Originally Posted by Norm Peterson
Shouldn't, as long as you make your 'before' and your 'after' measurements with the car resting on its wheels and after rolling it a bit so the suspension settles into its static ride height. The PHB simply isn't angled up high enough to make that happen.

Even half an inch is more than a little suspect with respect to how well the 'before' and 'after' measurements were controlled.


Norm
did to mine the first time I put in lowering springs. I spent some time talking to Dennis @BMR. He agreed that up to an inch you can maybe get by without an adj track bar and I wanted 1.5" in the back, not so much in the front. But for around $100 it was worth it to me. But everyone gets to make their own choices.
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Old 07-21-2009, 10:56 PM
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socalwrench
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Both Steeda and Competition Engineering make some nice track bars. I think the Comp. Eng. one is ~$130, hard to go wrong with that price and quality.
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Old 07-23-2009, 05:28 PM
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notsofast
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Also, remember to get the front end aligned after lowering the car. I didn't, and now the front tires are worn out on the inside from excessive toe-out.
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