Sam Strano

I don't think every car or person needs a Watts link, never did. There are improvements to be had from one, but they never trump the improvements you get and are needed by good damping and roll control. Basically I'd never do a Watts link before working the shocks, springs, bars because those things often make folks plenty happy in themselves. We can add a Watts as required or desired.

danzcool

Okay, so let's see if I'm picking up what's been put down...
I should start with dampers, springs, sway bars and a pan hard?
something like the STR.Ts, steeda sports, ???

Since I'm not as interested in launching as cornering, I don't really have to look at UCA/LCA's?

Sam Strano

You're hitting what we're pitching.

STR.T's and Steeda Sports is a very good combination. The more demanding you are, the more shock you will want.... I use Koni Sports on my car and wouldn't have it any other way. STR.T's are light years beyond cheap stuff, and will control lowering springs like Steeda Sports nicely.

In fact the Shocks, bars and springs are most important to a handling car. The PHB is actually not nearly as critical (but helpful).

My car does not have alternate control arms, upper or lower. I've linked vids before, and I'm going to again--this time from a ProSolo. In this clip I leave @ 4500 RPM, you'll note no wheelhop. I'm on Hoosier's with Koni's, springs and bars (FRPP stuff by rule, not what I'd ideally pick), and you can clearly see it handles pretty well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eRk_TMZR7k

danzcool

Okay, so are you suggesting that if the budget allows, to go with the Koni sports?

What sways would you recommend? Yours? Are the adjustable end links needed, what do they do?

So if I pull the trigger on springs, dampers, and sways, is there anything else I would need hardware-wise to get moving?

Thanks.
Dan

Sam Strano

I think Koni Sports are the best shocks (that aren't uber dollars) for the car. So yes, if budget allows, that's what I'd run (and do run).

I recommend my sways too. I got the benefit of trying many things, and incorporating changes I felt were helpful (and sizing them the way I wanted). Notice I sell others too, so you should not feel boxed in because I can't offer you anything else. I think some use too much rear bar, most drag more weight around for no reason (well, cost is the reason), and I hate not having adjustment where it's not terribly hard to implement it (again, costs).

You don't need adjustable endlinks. They are there to allow you to take pre-load out of the bar, which can enhance turn in grip. And to help corner weight the car. Not a huge difference, but some... and stock links on big bars aren't unknown to fail.... the aftermarket stuff is tougher.

Anything else you'd require? An adjustable PHB isn't a bad idea for reasons of both centering the body and killing some deflection. A Watts link is that much better for both as there are no inherent geometry changes with a Watts like there are for a PHB. But, more critically because of their location and the work involved I recommend Steeda HD mounts to replace the stock Ford ones that can and do break (causing a bind in the steering and a popping noise), but also because they offer you camber adjustment which can be used to get your alignment where you need it (for grip that's more negative camber, for lots of highway it's less). Stock mounts offer no adjustment, and the cheap $30 bolts aren't the best clamping things known to man. The Ford camber bolts have come loose and are way bigger and with much more torque applied.

notsofast

[QUOTE=Sam Strano;6707200]You're hitting what we're pitching.

STR.T's and Steeda Sports is a very good combination. The more demanding you are, the more shock you will want.... I use Koni Sports on my car and wouldn't have it any other way. STR.T's are light years beyond cheap stuff, and will control lowering springs like Steeda Sports nicely.

In fact the Shocks, bars and springs are most important to a handling car. The PHB is actually not nearly as critical (but helpful).]




I just had the Steeda Sport springs and Koni STR.Ts installed on my 2006 GT. I got these from Sam based upon his advice on my specific needs. (I had been running pro-kits and stock shocks/struts.) The new set-up has been a dramatic improvement. The pro-kits were a bit harsh for my taste and the OEM shocks had gotten very bouncy. The ride is solid with a "planted" feel. The ride quality in terms of comfort is actually much better also. I couldn't be happier and wish I'd done it sooner.

Sam Strano

Exactly what the car should be like... Of the change you saw about 85% of it was due to the Koni's, and about 15% to the springs. That planted feel, and the way the car deals with impacts now is due to better damping control. The ride comfort overall is due to a set of springs that are not as low and have more working travel (and a little less rate).

Everyone wants super stiff springs. Well, not everyone, but that's the common thinking. But here is a case that proves that damping is more important than all out rate. The Steeda springs in use here are softer and retain more travel than what was on before... yet the car feels more solid and planted. EXACTLY what everyone finds with upgraded dampers--and why anyone who's ever had good shocks will never go back.

Thank you for posting your findings nosofast. It's that kind of reference and detailed response that helps others get a better sense of how these things work (and differ) from each other.

danzcool

What kind of clearance does the Fayes Watts Link have from the differential cover? Would I run into issues if I used something like the Roush cover that would normally require a panhard relocation adapter?

surf808

What about the Vogtland leveling springs with the Koni Str.T? Would this be a good setup and comparable to the Steeda Sports with Str.Ts just without as much a drop??

Sam Strano

Mmm.... not honestly sure on that one. My car isn't where I can measure from the front of the Watts to my stock cover. Maybe someone else can. Then you'd have to know how much further back the new cover sticks too.

Even those the Watts frame is further back than a PHB, the propeller part is not.

I wish I had an answer for you. I can't honestly tell you if it would clear or not.