NOTSTOCK

Does anyone have any info as to whether the installation of the shaftmasters 3.5" one piece aluminum ds will be affected by the installation of koni strts and steeda sport springs? I've searched a lot of threads on here and I've heard that the angle need to be pretty close to stock. I've read that some people with LCAs had to adjust them all the way in to get the right angle. I tried calling Sam this weekend to ask his input but didn't have any luck. Maybe the blizzard had something to do with that

I've already got the driveshaft coming, but want to order the struts, springs, and phb ASAP if things will work together. So, will it work?

Also, I know Sam and others in some of the threads suggest going with the HD mounts. I don't autocross or drive the car hard, just the 270 degree on and off ramps or the occasional curvy road. Are they are must for a proper alignment, or will lowering the car with the previously listed equipment still allow the car to be aligned back to specs? Thanks in advance for your responses?

NJ3

I have a Shaftmasters 3.5" DS and Steeda Ultra-lite Sport Springs and stock control arms. I do not have any issues related to pinion angle.

Second HD strut mounts will do nothing for your alignment, they're only needed if you get or have a front end clunking noise. ( I'm still driving on my OE strut mounts.) You might want adjustable caster camber plates but they're not necessary to properly align your front end either. My car only needed a toe adjustment but some car need camber bolts which can be found for under $20.

antonio1988

^^^This

NOTSTOCK

Thanks for the response. Glad to hear about the driveshaft. I thought I read that you could make some camber adjustments with the HD mounts....of course I could be wrong which is why I'm asking. Either way, the main point I take from your response is that doing the mods I suggested wont change things so much that they can't be easily brought back in. Good to know

danzcool

Actually they do allow for a bit of camber adjustment... straight from Steeda's description for HD strut mounts:
"...you can also get an extra 1 degree of camber in each direction with these plates as well..."

Norm Peterson

I'm a little uneasy about most camber bolts anyway, but even more so on the S197.

Going with the HD strut mount seems like a "kill two birds with one stone" deal to me, even if strut top location precision during hard cornering isn't very high up on your list of criteria.


Norm

Blair

I have a dynotech aluminum driveshaft on my 2010 GT. I was running a Roush stage two suspension with Roush lowering springs when I put the shaft on. I noticed that i wasn't getting any vibration during acceleration, but was starting to get some vibration cruising at 80 mph and above and on decel from the driveshaft. I added a Steeda upper control arm, and tried adjusting the pinion angle to 3.0, 2.0 and then 1.5 degrees, but it did not get rid of the vibes.

I got tired of all the noise from the steeda UCA and switched back to the stock UCA and switched from the Roush springs back to the stock 2010 springs. The +80 mph vibes are completely gone, decel vibration is about 90% reduced, but wheel hop is back. The decel vibes are only slightly noticeable when you let out of the gas completely at highway speeds and coast down. I am chalking up the remaining minor decel vibes to the axle rotating the driveshaft out of line under decel with the soft stock bushings.

To get rid of my newly found wheel hop and the last little bit of decel vibes, I am thinking of trying the Roush wheelhop eliminator UCA. It should be quiet as it has a rubber bushing, but the bushing is also firmer so hopefully it will get rid of the decel vibes and wheel hop.

Good luck with your driveshaft, it significantly improves the feel of the car, but the vibration issues can be frustrating...

NOTSTOCK

Well I went ahead and ordered the Koni Strts and Steeda Sport Springs from Strano. Also opted for the HD mounts to help with the camber adjustment if needed. Per the ball and chain, this will be my last order of the year. I think I got away with a lot though and I can't wait to get the new suspension setup on. Just for giggles though....making the mods I'm making, will that allow me a good entry level into some autocross, or will they push me up in classes? I read through the thread with all of the talk on classes and I don't know if i'll ever do it, but just curious if I'm keeping it close enough for the lowest level. Thanks for the help, guys!

Red06

Here is a good thread on checking/adjusting your pinion angle.

https://mustangforums.com/forum/2005...ion-angle.html

Setting the angle on a one piece drive shaft is near the bottom of the first page. Unfortunately CrazyAl's drawing that goes along with the explanation is no longer there. I may have a hard copy in my mod folder somewhere.

I had my whole rear suspension out when I did my mods so I can't say if the stock control arms will yield a proper pinion angle with a one piece drive shaft. I know the Steeda upper control arm is slightly shorter than stock to give the proper pinion angle after lowering. I'd highly recommend checking it.

I adjusted mine to -1.5 degrees (nose down) with Coast shaft and my poly/spherical control arms.

Norm Peterson

The 93-octane tune and the shifter are at least Street Touring (X or U) or Street Prepared. Both of those categories allow basic spring and strut/shock swaps.

I think the driveshaft will be what ends up governing the car's "legal" class.


Norm