ODDYSEY

Let me explain a couple of problems I am having first, then I will list what I have done. I have been trying to track down some noises and problems and I am getting stumped. While I understand quiet a bit about suspension, it has to be my weak spot with cars.

1.) I installed FRPP N springs & BMR adjustable panhard bar (no issues)

2.) Installed Tokico d-spec rear shocks (no issues)

3.) Front started to get soft so I installed Tokico d-spec front struts, camber bolts, GT take off sway bars. (this is where the problems started)

First I noticed what sounded like my tires squealing when I turned sharp, that got worse over time meaning I wouldn't have to turn really sharp to hear it. I checked and checked and could not see any rubbing, and I had my wife turn in circles and could hear nothing outside the car. But it is very noticable inside the cabin.

After a while of tracking down this problem, I did notice some slight rubbing on the front a-arm and fender liner due to my bigger tires (need to have steering stops installed).

I thought this was the issue, so I paid attention as I was turning, but the noise is still there. It sounds like a moaning/deep squealing I think coming from the rear.

Now I am looking into getting BMR adj. LCA's (poly/sphere), BMR UCA (do I need an adj one?) and some LCA relocation brackets.

My main questions are:

Any idea on what could cause that noise? I was going to remove my rear sway bar and see if the noise goes away, I am stumped.

Camber on front tires, I have camber bolts but it seems as if my camber is way off (might be a crappy job when they aligned my car) should I stick with bolts or invest in caster/camber plates?

Anything I should look into or add to my list? Are adj, LCA's and adj, UCA's the right direction to go?

My main focus is getting rid of the noise, second is upgrading the rest of my suspension.

Thanks

jahudso2

If it's coming from the rear and only when turning, it could be your lsd. You might not have heard it whining before, but the stiffer bushings in the new parts (maybe rear sway bar) might have transmitted the noise inside to where you can hear it.

I had no gear whine in my car after my 3.73 install, but as soon as I swapped the lcas to a set with poly bushings on both ends, I had gear whine in the cabin.

ODDYSEY

interesting.... thanks for the info

157dB

My rear GT take-off sway with poly bushings really
brought out the rear end gear whine.
Not sure why but it did.
Is the fluid level correct in the rear diff?
Some (most) left the assembly line low on fluid
according to the TSB bout it.
Do you even have an LSD in there?
Is that the 'and more...' part of your signalure?
I would suspect spider noise if only during turning.
These dont spin much when traveling straight.
Unless your tires are of different rolling diameters.

Sleeper_08

Interesting - that may also be what I'm hearing sometimes when turning a tight radius corner.

Is the noise from the LSD normal or a sign of it getting near the end of it's life?

ODDYSEY

db - FRPP 3.73's and FRPP t-lock put in by a local performance shop. I haven't checked the rear fluid levels because it didn't occur to me, someone mentioned it but I thought for sure it was something else. I will probably swap fluid out with the royal purple and friction mod. just to be safe.

What about the rest of the potential upgrades? Is that overkill or am I on the right track?

jahudso2

The diff has to work the hardest at low speed tight turns which is when it will make the most noise. I would suggest you hold off on the LCA and UCA till you find the noise. I couldn't hear gear whine till I added LCAs and now it is pretty damn loud at highway speeds on tip in/ tip out. If only a sway bar added the NVH, then the LCAs will definately add more noise, and the UCA will be pure hell.

6-Speed

No need for additional friction modifier if you use RP Max-Gear oil.

candymanjl

stiffer sway bars with poly bushings in place of the stock parts will transmit a lot more noise and vibrations to the car, at least they did on my past cars.

as far as the adjustable LCA's and UCA's it's easier to get non-adjustable LCA's and an adjustable UCA. that way you just have one point of adjustment for the pinion angle. having the adjustable LCA's could come in handy if your rear axle isn't square or you may need them for the lower relocation brackets. otherwise having everything adjustable is a little overkill.

ODDYSEY

Thanks for the feedback everyone, I am going to replace my read diff fluid and see how that helps. Because once I get started on the LCA's/UCA I can see it getting louder if that is the problem.