STEEDA Coilover Nightmare
03-19-2011, 05:49 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 35
STEEDA Coilover Nightmare
I have always been a suspension geek. I've had coilovers on several previous cars I've owned. Audi A4, S4, Cooper S, 3-Series, etc. A little on me -- I am a highly technically skilled individual, mechanical engineer, industrial designer, etc. I understand manufacturing processes, rapid prototyping, six sigma, former Fortune 100 exec.
Taking a deep breath -- I picked up my 2011 5.0 just over a month ago.
After a bunch of research and talking to some experts. I wanted to go hard core for the street. I also wanted to level the car out perfectly.
After lots of questions and assurance from Steeda, I ordered:
When I first got the stuff, un boxed it, and laid it all out for install -- super impressed with the quality of the parts.
Episode 1 -- 150 miles on my car. I begin the install on a Saturday morning. Doing it myself and taking my time - torquing every bolt to spec, etc. I first install the rear end parts, and then get to the fronts where I discover Steeda shipped me the wrong front springs. Took me to install the front left to discover it. I figured it out when the car was actually higher than stock.
Sunday, I put the car back to stock. Total time wasted: 12 hours
I call Steeda first thing on Monday. At first I decided to return the whole setup and get something else. I shopped around during the week, and frankly was not convinced an Eibach or H&R coilover was a better direction. So I called Steeda again and told them to send the correct front springs, and the following Saturday I do the full install.
Car drives great -- But I'm getting lots of spring-like noises coming from the front shock top area plus noises from the rear. I took it to my alignment/suspension specialists who double checked all my work. No problems found. They are convinced the noises were coming from the Steeda upper front strut mounts as well as the Steeda panhard bar ends.
We did a full corner balance, adjusted the camber, etc. $ spent: $325
Episode 2 -- The noise is really heartbreaking. Call Steeda again to get some help. I'm being told that they have no problems with their cars. I checked everything again and again... nothing. Time spent: 6 hours
Episode 3 -- now 550 miles on the car. I hit a rough patch of road... nothing terrible and all of the sudden BANG, and I'm getting a scary rattle/clanking from the front right strut area. I call Steeda first thing on Monday morning. I was told to check the large hex nut on the top of the strut body where the plunger rod enters. I pull out the front right strut again. Checked the nut, its not loose, reassemble. Test Drive... same thing. Car is not drivable. Time spent: 4 hours
Episode 4 -- call Steeda again on Tuesday morning. Calm -- but could not be more disappointed. Now they think the bearing in the upper strut mount failed. Three days later I get a package with some washers, flat needle bearings and some o-rings. You would have thought they would have overnighted me the items. No... regular shipping. I finally get the parts on Friday. Considering everything thus far -- customer service? I bit my lip.
Saturday morning again -- I pull out the front right strut again... disassemble the upper strut mount. Bingo, I figured out the problems.
When assembling the upper strut mount, the two o-rings on the post (upper section) slide down, being forced out of their machined channels when the lower part presses in. This is either due to the inner bore diameter is not large enough on the lower section/spring cup or the depth of the o-ring channels on the upper section are not deep enough. You can't press the sections together by hand, only when the strut is assembled.
What's happening is when the strut is assembled bringing the upper and lower section together, the o-ring is getting mashed down, preventing the assembly from coming together evenly. Meaning the upper and lower sections are not parallel. This causes the upper section's post to hit against the spring cup -- which in turn caused the o-ring to get mashed into the bearing. This clearly is the cause of the sounds. The only conclusion I can draw is this is a manufacturing flaw. Somewhere in the machining process, someone is not paying attention, and parts are being assembled that don't work together.
In regards to the horrible rattling sound. The strut body failed. I discovered this when I flipped the strut around on my bench, and I heard a rattle. Something inside the unit is broken. This happened with 400 miles of driving.
On top of it all -- from the four times I installed and removed the strut -- the edges of the dust cap threads are boogered from having to get a wrench on the top of the plunger shaft -- and the dust caps won't go on (That cover the tops of the plunger rods where you insert the damper adjuster tool). Time wasted: At least 14 hours.
- - - -
Thank you to anyone who took the time to read and think about this situation. Please tell me if you think I'm being reasonable.
Defective upper strut mounts + a strut body that failed in 400 miles! Trying, trying, patiently, methodically, to make Steeda product work, careful technical analysis, etc. Hours upon hours of my time... heartbreak, etc.
Here is what I feel is reasonable: Full Refund + reimbursement for the alignment and corner balance.
Problem is, I do not want to go through putting my stock stuff back in (for the second time) so I can box the Steeda Stuff up, get a call tag, wait for it to ship back, wait for a refund, etc. I will have to lay out that cash for a second time, second alignment, etc.
Now is the test of Steeda's customer service. They sponsor this forum. Hopefully I will be posting a positive outcome.
Last -- will post full pics to outline the specifics later.
In kindness and quiet heartache,
Rich
Taking a deep breath -- I picked up my 2011 5.0 just over a month ago.
After a bunch of research and talking to some experts. I wanted to go hard core for the street. I also wanted to level the car out perfectly.
After lots of questions and assurance from Steeda, I ordered:
- Fully Adjustable Coilovers with 200lb fronts springs and 175 lb rear springs
- Steeda Ajustable Panhard Bar & Chassis Brace
- Steeda rear swaybar and drop links
When I first got the stuff, un boxed it, and laid it all out for install -- super impressed with the quality of the parts.
Episode 1 -- 150 miles on my car. I begin the install on a Saturday morning. Doing it myself and taking my time - torquing every bolt to spec, etc. I first install the rear end parts, and then get to the fronts where I discover Steeda shipped me the wrong front springs. Took me to install the front left to discover it. I figured it out when the car was actually higher than stock.
Sunday, I put the car back to stock. Total time wasted: 12 hours
I call Steeda first thing on Monday. At first I decided to return the whole setup and get something else. I shopped around during the week, and frankly was not convinced an Eibach or H&R coilover was a better direction. So I called Steeda again and told them to send the correct front springs, and the following Saturday I do the full install.
Car drives great -- But I'm getting lots of spring-like noises coming from the front shock top area plus noises from the rear. I took it to my alignment/suspension specialists who double checked all my work. No problems found. They are convinced the noises were coming from the Steeda upper front strut mounts as well as the Steeda panhard bar ends.
We did a full corner balance, adjusted the camber, etc. $ spent: $325
Episode 2 -- The noise is really heartbreaking. Call Steeda again to get some help. I'm being told that they have no problems with their cars. I checked everything again and again... nothing. Time spent: 6 hours
Episode 3 -- now 550 miles on the car. I hit a rough patch of road... nothing terrible and all of the sudden BANG, and I'm getting a scary rattle/clanking from the front right strut area. I call Steeda first thing on Monday morning. I was told to check the large hex nut on the top of the strut body where the plunger rod enters. I pull out the front right strut again. Checked the nut, its not loose, reassemble. Test Drive... same thing. Car is not drivable. Time spent: 4 hours
Episode 4 -- call Steeda again on Tuesday morning. Calm -- but could not be more disappointed. Now they think the bearing in the upper strut mount failed. Three days later I get a package with some washers, flat needle bearings and some o-rings. You would have thought they would have overnighted me the items. No... regular shipping. I finally get the parts on Friday. Considering everything thus far -- customer service? I bit my lip.
Saturday morning again -- I pull out the front right strut again... disassemble the upper strut mount. Bingo, I figured out the problems.
When assembling the upper strut mount, the two o-rings on the post (upper section) slide down, being forced out of their machined channels when the lower part presses in. This is either due to the inner bore diameter is not large enough on the lower section/spring cup or the depth of the o-ring channels on the upper section are not deep enough. You can't press the sections together by hand, only when the strut is assembled.
What's happening is when the strut is assembled bringing the upper and lower section together, the o-ring is getting mashed down, preventing the assembly from coming together evenly. Meaning the upper and lower sections are not parallel. This causes the upper section's post to hit against the spring cup -- which in turn caused the o-ring to get mashed into the bearing. This clearly is the cause of the sounds. The only conclusion I can draw is this is a manufacturing flaw. Somewhere in the machining process, someone is not paying attention, and parts are being assembled that don't work together.
In regards to the horrible rattling sound. The strut body failed. I discovered this when I flipped the strut around on my bench, and I heard a rattle. Something inside the unit is broken. This happened with 400 miles of driving.
On top of it all -- from the four times I installed and removed the strut -- the edges of the dust cap threads are boogered from having to get a wrench on the top of the plunger shaft -- and the dust caps won't go on (That cover the tops of the plunger rods where you insert the damper adjuster tool). Time wasted: At least 14 hours.
- - - -
Thank you to anyone who took the time to read and think about this situation. Please tell me if you think I'm being reasonable.
Defective upper strut mounts + a strut body that failed in 400 miles! Trying, trying, patiently, methodically, to make Steeda product work, careful technical analysis, etc. Hours upon hours of my time... heartbreak, etc.
Here is what I feel is reasonable: Full Refund + reimbursement for the alignment and corner balance.
Problem is, I do not want to go through putting my stock stuff back in (for the second time) so I can box the Steeda Stuff up, get a call tag, wait for it to ship back, wait for a refund, etc. I will have to lay out that cash for a second time, second alignment, etc.
Now is the test of Steeda's customer service. They sponsor this forum. Hopefully I will be posting a positive outcome.
Last -- will post full pics to outline the specifics later.
In kindness and quiet heartache,
Rich
Last edited by CXracer; 03-20-2011 at 11:57 AM.
03-19-2011, 06:35 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 35
Thx -- do you think a full refund and reimbursement for alignment is reasonable?
03-19-2011, 07:38 PM
#4
I could see that they gave you a full refund and paid for return shipping but not the alignment(s). Even though the part failed and most likely caused your alignment to go out, that would have to be proved that the specific part caused the issue(s). I've never dealt with them before and you can try but I doubt anyone would go beyond the refund.
Also I rarely buy direct as you can find the parts usually lower in cost from an online retail vendor, such as American Muscle.
Also I rarely buy direct as you can find the parts usually lower in cost from an online retail vendor, such as American Muscle.
03-19-2011, 07:56 PM
#5
All I can say is that sometimes stuff goes wrong. Most of the vehicles we get for service at the dealer are 10's and 11's that have issues with SYNC or MYTOUCH, bad modules, bad software load etc.... but considering the amount of cars we sell it's a small % but sometimes poop happens. Gus from Steeda frequents these forums maybe you can talk with him. I know Steeda will take the parts back but they do have a 20% restocking fee perhaps he can work with you on that being you had so many issues. As for the alignment they will not reimburse you, those are just the breaks. I've had no issues with my personal customers with Steeda products or FRPP. The FRPP suspension is a great piece I have the full handling pack on my Mustang along with a Saleen Panhard bar and C.H.E. LCA's and K-member brace. Near factory ride with dramatic increase in handling and high speed stability.
03-19-2011, 09:17 PM
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 35
Thx for the replies... I figure I am screwed on the alignment. But 20% restocking fee on defective parts that never functioned properly in the first place is downright unacceptable.
Meanwhile, my new car is out of service for the time being. More to come.
Meanwhile, my new car is out of service for the time being. More to come.
03-20-2011, 06:16 PM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Detroit Area
Posts: 894
CXracer, I think SpartaPerformance is being polite because he's a vender.
The larger issue with these venders is that they give the impression that badly designed high performance parts are your fault and problem because you decided to change your car from stock, even though the very premise that they have you pay for in full is that the parts are the same or superior quality than stock. Often they are not, or they are fully aware of the compromises and don't tell you about them. Again, that is your fault according to them.
Saleen's original release of the Watts link(Generation 1) that failed during testing, and was produced anyway, and sold dishonestly by vendors as the Generation 2 Watts link that was designed better, but still failed, was completely denied by Saleen.
Buying these parts is a complete crap shoot, some are great, and some are terrible, and none of us have any idea which were getting until they are paid for and installed.
It is heartbreaking and dishonest. Steeda should know they have a crap design on that part, they don't have to have you tell them after your out all the time and money. Erik
The larger issue with these venders is that they give the impression that badly designed high performance parts are your fault and problem because you decided to change your car from stock, even though the very premise that they have you pay for in full is that the parts are the same or superior quality than stock. Often they are not, or they are fully aware of the compromises and don't tell you about them. Again, that is your fault according to them.
Saleen's original release of the Watts link(Generation 1) that failed during testing, and was produced anyway, and sold dishonestly by vendors as the Generation 2 Watts link that was designed better, but still failed, was completely denied by Saleen.
Buying these parts is a complete crap shoot, some are great, and some are terrible, and none of us have any idea which were getting until they are paid for and installed.
It is heartbreaking and dishonest. Steeda should know they have a crap design on that part, they don't have to have you tell them after your out all the time and money. Erik
03-20-2011, 08:41 PM
#8
It's even worse if something goes wrong and it was a self install. You're usually SOL. Say for example if you had a shop install this for you and it went bad, depending on the shop, they may be willing to install a replacement part and alignment for free. It goes either way. Again, I doubt seeing Steeda do anything aside from a refund.
03-21-2011, 06:59 AM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: NJ
Posts: 35
As promised... here are some pics that show the chronic noise issue with the upper strut mounts.
The simple explanation is the design causes the o-rings between the upper and lower sections to get mashed into the needle bearings making the assembly uneven. This causes the center of the upper section to hit against the spring cup.
The simple explanation is the design causes the o-rings between the upper and lower sections to get mashed into the needle bearings making the assembly uneven. This causes the center of the upper section to hit against the spring cup.
03-21-2011, 07:52 AM
#10
Former Sponsor
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: FL
Posts: 630
I would like to start by letting everyone know this issue has been in the process of being handled by one of my reps internally. We never like to see issues like this happen.
We offered the customer to send the front suspension back in to us. We would put it together ourselves completely, including the springs, so all he would have to do is bolt the whole assembly into the car and be sure it is 100% perfectly installed and put together.
This solution was not acceptable to him. What is left if this solution is not acceptable is to want to go ahead and send everything back for a full refund with no restock fee.
We offered the customer to send the front suspension back in to us. We would put it together ourselves completely, including the springs, so all he would have to do is bolt the whole assembly into the car and be sure it is 100% perfectly installed and put together.
This solution was not acceptable to him. What is left if this solution is not acceptable is to want to go ahead and send everything back for a full refund with no restock fee.